Rotary Cutter Rotary Cutter Advice

[jhgnag]

After getting my 2410 this weekend & mowing my place, I think I need to consider a rotary cutter for some stuff. I beat up on my blades pretty good & didn't even get to the rough stuff. Any suggestions on a good rotary cutter for my machine (and appox. prices). I stopped by the dealer & he had a 48" Woods for around $1000. Also, can anyone explain the different clutch options?

As always, thanks for your help.

 

[RichZ]

We need more info. What will you be mowing with it? Weeds, brush, saplings? What diameter saplings, etc.

 

[jhgnag]

Well, I cut most of the field grass this weekend, but now I want to start focusing on the edges. There are some saplings, maybe an inch or so in diameter. I also want to run down the sides of two stone walls & start clearing out all that brushy crap. Seems there is no shortage of groth. And, I have a small area of woods that I want to thin out. Mostly small saplings, but bigger sticks & stuff on the ground that I don't want to destroy my MMM.

 

[jtn]

I have had good luck with Woods and Land Pride cutters. Usually the light duty models (Woods 48, Land Pride 1548) will handle saplings up to 1". If you are mowing real brush such as wild roses or junipers try to get a heavier cutter.

I assume you mean clutches on the cutter. The options I have seen are shear pin and slip clutch. A shear pin is designed to break if the cutter is overloaded, e.g. if you back up and drop it on a largh bush. A slip clutch basically works like the friction clutch in your tractor or car and will start to slip if the drive line is overloaded.

Good luck with your search!

JT

 

[Knight9]

Well, I'll be the unpopular guy and, though I won't specifically recommend it /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif, I bought a 60" cutter for behind my B2410. Sounds like I cut similiar stuff as you...long grass/weeds, bushes and some saplings/shrubs up to a couple of inches thick. I was very surprised the manual limits the cutter to 48", but I'm very glad I bought the 5'. Now that the first couple of "rough" cuts are done, I'm pretty much maintaining what I cleared. I bought the King Kutter model and have yet to lag the tractor or break a shear bolt.

Kevin

 

[Harv]

Well, I ain't no expert on these things, but I got my 60" Howse rotary cutter new for $653. Although considered an "economy" model, it's plenty rugged enough for my use, which is similar to yours. No slip clutch -- just a shear pin (haven't sheared it yet). Weighs about 600 pounds.

Oh yeah -- and I added store-bought chain guards (a must, in my opinion) for another $195.

 

[RichZ]

If your tractor can handle it, I agree with Kevin. For what you have, the 60" King Kutter will be all you need. It is pretty sturdy, and I've used mine on over 40 acres, and never broke a shear pin. I think it's the best buy for the money. I got mine at QFF(RIP) for $495.

 

[BB_TX]

I use a light duty Howse 6' behind my JD950 (27 PTO hp). In clearing a creek area, I have cut down numerous cedars up to 6' tall, 3" base with no problem. On the taller ones, I raise the cutter and back over them. Then slowly lower the cutter and drive forward. Shorter ones (3') I just drive straight over them. Never sheared a pin, never lugs the tractor. Just leaves a surprisingly small amount of mulch. Mine cost $500 2 years ago. I have seen a local dealer advertising 5' for $399.
I am not pushing Howse. But decide if you really need a $1000+ cutter.

 

[jtn]

Regarding chain shielding; I bought my current cutter, a Land Pride 2572, with shielding. I was under the impression that shielding was required unless the cutter was for "agricultural" use (I infer this means it would be under tax exempt status in most states). Even a small cutter is capable of throwing debris with a high velocity and a lot of force. I once shattered a glass sliding door from 200 feet away with a rock the size of a quarter so I would reccomend getting shielding.

JT