Roller Build

   / Roller Build #1  

cordak

New member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Messages
22
Location
South Beaver, PA
Tractor
1982 Kubota L245DT
This was two very OLD propane tanks that were very thick gauge steel. After cutting the bottoms at the right spot so one side would slightly slide into the other, I stood them up and used the trusty level to get them straight. Then tack welded them together and brought it down and rolled it on my concrete pad to check how straight it was. Amazingly it was perfect on the first try. Then weld weld weld.... Next created the frame with new 2" square tubing I got at cost due to knowing a mobile welder. Built the frame to fit and sit just right. It's 3/4 of an inch away from the roller and it knocks dirt clumps off and does not touch the roller at any point when lifting or lowering the frame around. Ordered the bearing off of ebay as they were the cheapest place to find them. Got a pack of 4 for $20ish. They are "Pillow Block Bearings, UCP205-16 P205". Got 36inch solid pipe 1 inch steel rods for the ends. Only had to clean the threads off of the original holes for the valves on the tanks, then welded in. Slid rollers on, packed them with grease and fastened to the rods. I built the frame to sit on 7 inch blocks of the square tubing. The pillow bearings bolt to the blocks and the ends are open so I can get a wrench in there. If there was ever a need to take the frame off or replace the bearings. Made the hitch mount out of an old tractor lift arm. This way it has the pivoting ball in the end helping with mobility. Cut a piece of the end of that tank off to fill with concrete then welded back on. Total weight, about 1400lbs. Length 6'3". I know YARD rollers work best when all of the weight is being pressed in a smaller/shorter roller but I needed length for mine as it will mostly be used to help rebuild my gravel driveway.
 
   / Roller Build
  • Thread Starter
#2  
20170328_122313.jpg20170410_152043.jpg20170410_153957.jpg20170410_155253.jpg
 
   / Roller Build #5  
Very nice indeed! :thumbsup:
 
   / Roller Build #8  
A little far to transport but I know that would do me good putting in my new lawn this spring! :thumbsup:
 
   / Roller Build #9  
DURNIT....You just stole my Idea...lol...now I'm gonna steal Your design......I have an old farm wagon tongue that I'm using for my hitch....was thinking about using the small 4 bolt replacement axle hubs from the farm store so I know where to get bearings.....1400#s, well I can scrap making a top rack to add weight to it, thats enough weight...

THANKS FOR SHARING

Smokin'

p.s. GREAT JOB...I LOVE IT..
 
   / Roller Build #10  
If my math is right....that would be about 233 lbs. per each foot...At 200 lbs,when I walk over a wet yard, I don't leave foot prints. Is that enough weight to roll a yard?

Any landscape pro's know what the recommended weight is for a grass yard?

Smokin'

lol....See what I did there? 2nd guessed myself...par for course and I don't golf...lol
 
   / Roller Build #11  
As you can tell...I'm really studying your post......LOVE the Hitch Idea, I would not have thought about that, but then, I don't have one of them laying around either......

Smokin'
 
   / Roller Build
  • Thread Starter
#12  
If my math is right....that would be about 233 lbs. per each foot...At 200 lbs,when I walk over a wet yard, I don't leave foot prints. Is that enough weight to roll a yard?

Any landscape pro's know what the recommended weight is for a grass yard?

I'm no pro LOL, but I can smash down the areas that the moles have dug up no problem and leave a nice flat area. As said in my post, I know you're supposed to have a skinnier roller that is more round so you get more weight in the area pressing down, but for my application, I needed length. If I were to do it again and didn't need it to be so long, I would have only used one tank rolling on the ground and built my frame to hold the other one above it, using that additional weight for the shorter width.
 
   / Roller Build #13  
   / Roller Build
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Lovely job Mate.

Hmmmm... I couldn't help noticing in the third picture... That's a 'mighty fine' collection of pallets you have there.

You didn't find them in an inverted 'V', out in a field, by any chance? :scratchchin:

I will tell you where they came from even though you're probably not going to believe me. I have a family member who works in a p0rn distribution warehouse and they were looking to get rid of them and have many more. LOL. No joke.
 
   / Roller Build #15  
Not only do I believe you but that is a story worthy of the "Pallets in Fields" thread, here on TBN. :eek:ath:
 
   / Roller Build #16  
If my math is right....that would be about 233 lbs. per each foot...At 200 lbs,when I walk over a wet yard, I don't leave foot prints. Is that enough weight to roll a yard?

Any landscape pro's know what the recommended weight is for a grass yard?

Smokin'

lol....See what I did there? 2nd guessed myself...par for course and I don't golf...lol

I'm not sure what is "recommended" but the typical water filled rollers come in at about 250 lbs per foot, so you should get some good out of it. I've heard that they are a little light for some conditions. My design (which is still on the drawing board) includes a rack above the roller so that solid concrete blocks can be added to almost double the weight. Looks like you could do that, even with a bolt on.
 
   / Roller Build #17  
From my use of rollers a 200 lbs/ft roller is fine for new seedbeds. If you cross a small mound such as gophers make the entire weight of the roller is pressing down in that smaller foot print if you center over it. That can make a huge difference.

I built this roller last year which is 3pt quick hitch compatible and it weighs about 430 lbs./ft. I will be using it on some jobs in the next few months.
 

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   / Roller Build #18  
I'm not sure what is "recommended" but the typical water filled rollers come in at about 250 lbs per foot, so you should get some good out of it. I've heard that they are a little light for some conditions. My design (which is still on the drawing board) includes a rack above the roller so that solid concrete blocks can be added to almost double the weight. Looks like you could do that, even with a bolt on.

Yea, that's my plan also. I already had my 100# tanks cut just need welded now, it will look very similar to this one. I want a rack just wide enough to put concrete caps in. Would like to be in the 2000 lb, range. My neighbor and my yard were pastures at one time, so on our Zero's, it's a lil' rough riding.
 
   / Roller Build
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Not only do I believe you but that is a story worthy of the "Pallets in Fields" thread, here on TBN. :eek:ath:

I did not know that existed. Off to find it now though!! LOL
 

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