RK BH85 on RK55HC Tractor - Removal and Remount Experience

[markie61]

I removed the subframe backhoe RK BH85 from my RK55HC shortly after I received it. Played with it, dug a couple holes, removed a couple stumps first, but it was mowing season and the finish mower took priority. I have never had a backhoe before (let alone removed/remounted one), so watched a couple YouTube videos on removal and reinstall from various brands (could find none for RK tractors except the RK24, which is very different); found this one from a Kioti dealer that is the most similar to the BH85 for removal and remounting How to take off a Kioti Tractor Backhoe - CK2610 HST w/ KB2475L Backhoe - YouTube . The major difference is that the BH85 uses the 3PH top-link, which must be removed in addition to the two pins on the "draw bar"/rear mount.
Here is the subframe diagram from the owner's manual; for orientation, the front is where the "cross bar" is:

The "cross bar" on mine is different than pictured - it's much bigger and *perfectly* blocks the engine oil drain plug despite having two big holes (see my 50-hour maintenance post https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums.../419134-rk55-hydrostatic-50-hour-service.html).
A couple of tips:
*DEFINITELY put cribbing under the subframe upon removal approximately where the blue stars are. Due to hydraulic bleed-down in all the cylinders (especially the stabilizers), the front end of the subframe ended nose-up to a point where I couldn't back over it far enough to reattach the hydraulic hoses. Had to use the FEL and cribbing to get it into position to reattach the hydraulic lines.
*Make sure the front of the frame is absolutely level or oven slightly nose-down before backing over it. The front corner (near the red arrow) nicked the HST filter, nearly shearing it off (see picture - this could have been catastrophic). The tolerances are tight with *maybe* 2 inches of clearance once the frame is in place.

*You can "snag"/catch the "subframe crosser") with the rear "draw bar" mount before finalizing the front mount on the "cross bar". I found it best to angle the subframe's nose slightly downward while the rear "subframe crosser" was even with the lower portion of the "draw bar" plate. After backing just enough to support the "subframe crosser", I pivoted/"see-sawed" the subframe's nose level and even with the "cross bar" notches. Then after driving completely back to "set" the subframe into the mounts, I reinstalled the pins and top link.
The entire mounting process took be about 45 minute, what with the bleed down, learning, and all. I imagine next time it should take less than 10-15 minutes.
Editorially, the backhoe seems really solid - even more solid than the loader. The mounting appears heavy-duty as well. Mounted, the stabilizer cylinders definitely bleed down under their own weight - about an inch in 24 hours; it would be nice to have the locks like the Kioti video showed.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Yes, the long subframe can be very tricky. I have an LS XG3025 with an almost identical subframe setup as your diagram. I have found to only block / cribb the underside of the center of the BH between the stabilizers. The front of the subframe sits on the floor, the dipper in a vertical posture, and the boom lowered until the bucket touches the ground. I back up to the point that the rear mount (crossbar) and front mount are about an inch behind the tractor mounts (still much lower though). This is close enough to hook up the hydraulic hoses. Then by using the stabilizers, slowly raise the BH closer to the mounting height. Then use the boom control (by slowly raising the boom, and I MEAN SLOWLY!). This will raise the front of the subframe (basically now the BH is only sitting / balancing on the bucket and stabilizers). By making minor adjustments to the stabs and boom, you can get the subframe perfectly aligned with the mounts. Then I jump back on the tractor, back it up about a foot, put the pins in, and finish raising the boom, then the stabilizers. Done.

Taking it off is basically the reverse procedure... use the boom and stabilizers to take the load of the BH off the tractor (you can see that the subframe is hovering in the middle of the mounts). Remove the pins, pull forward just to clear the mounts. Lower the BH subframe away from the tractor, disconnect the hoses, and pull away.

I do this all inside a single car size garage. The tractor is not even level (front half is outside on the apron sloping away from the garage). The first time I did this, I was scared to death .... there are a lot of things that can get smashed under the tractor.... The dealer had given me the verbal instructions to do it this way. First time took me about 25 minutes just to take it off, 35 - 40 mins to put it back on. I just did the on / off for the 4th time... took 10 min to put it on, about 5 to take it back off. You will get faster and more comfortable doing it. Remember, just take your time, make very small adjustments, and be careful.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Here are a few pics of the BH in the storage position. This time I tried using a dolly that I had made for my box blade. The BH is definitely too heavy to move around. I would have to make 3 Of the dollys.... one for the front, one for the bucket, and one for the center. Definitely not worth it to move it just a little bit. If it was in a BIG area / building, then I would.

You can see where I usually put the blocking... this time it is just on top of the dolly. I will definitely go back to the original way of storing it.

 

[markie61]

Remember, just take your time, make very small adjustments, and be careful.... there are a lot of things that can get smashed under the tractor....

Well said - a very similar setup.