Hello. New member. First post. First tractor. I have just recently purchased a Kubota B2650, less cab, with loader. It's at the dealer waiting to be picked up. Have to make a decision regarding a box scraper and was hoping for some advice. I have ordered a 48" box scraper on the advice of the dealer, who indicated that the scraper should be no wider that the width of the tractor and the tractor may not be able to handle a loaded 60" scraper. I went to look at the tractor and scraper yesterday and the scraper seems narrow. Having never owned or used a tractor/scraper before I'm looking for some feedback. My intentions are to use the scraper to level a new 1200 foot driveway, for yard work and what ever else a box scraper can be used for. So before I take delivery I want to make sure I get the right size box scraper. Probably overthinking this, but feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
Box Scraper Right Size Box Scraper
- Thread starter bwb518
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oldnslo
Super Member
Width depends on several factors.
Where and how it will be used, I.e in tight quarters around buildings, between tress etc the extra width may be a hazard.
Just light duty leveling the 5 foot would work fine.
Heavy duty ditch digging either one you just will have to take smaller bites with the wider box.
Typically the heavier the box blade the better it works.
Where and how it will be used, I.e in tight quarters around buildings, between tress etc the extra width may be a hazard.
Just light duty leveling the 5 foot would work fine.
Heavy duty ditch digging either one you just will have to take smaller bites with the wider box.
Typically the heavier the box blade the better it works.
MtnViewRanch
Elite Member, Advertiser
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Your tractor is 54" wide and weighs about 2300lbs + loader weight. Your tractor will handle a 60" box blade. Any time that it won't, you just raise the box a little bit and keep on moving. A box blade has to be one of the best all around implements and I highly recommend getting one. But with that said and you having about a quarter mile drive to maintain, I highly recommend that you get a land plane grading scraper (LPGS). A 60" unit would be good and would make life a little bit nicer for you. Any brand would work good for you.
Good luck and enjoy your new tractor.
Good luck and enjoy your new tractor.
Attachments
Hello & Welcome. I'm looking for a box blade as well & have tagged a couple of posts you may want to check out. My tractor is 58" wide and have decided on a 66 wide to cover tracks a bit better than a 60. Also, there are a couple manufacturers out there that make a 54 wide, so that would be worth a thought for your tractor vs the 60. You can also do a search on your own in the attachments forum. The words 'box' and 'size' and search titles only gave several good results.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/307967-woods-hb84-box-blade-66-a.html
3720 - who's runnin' what for box blades
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/307967-woods-hb84-box-blade-66-a.html
3720 - who's runnin' what for box blades
kw22614
Platinum Member
Welcome to the forum!
I've always heard your implement should typically be 1' for every 5hp. Last fall I got a 4' King Kutter box blade for my 18hp BX and have used it to resmooth and fill low spots in my gravel driveway with the rippers out (or at least all the way up) but tilted aggresively to get a good bite of packed gravel. I've also used it with rippers all the way down to tear up soil and gravel mix to level back yard 'driveway'. This filled the box and my little 18hp handeled it all really easily. I have't gotten to any roots yet and I still intend to cut in some swails for drainage. From my limited use with the box blade (maybe 8 hrs so far) I'd say I could have even maybe gotten a 5' as I have not many trees or narrow areas to contend with. One thing is to stay in low gear, I even keep her in 4 wheel drive and go SLOW. Bulk of the hard work is done going forward, rear blade just for smoothing material in reverse - don't try cutting in reverse. If you get the 5' and it's hard to pull or eat you'd just need to take smaller bites as stated already so the project may take you as long as if you were using a 4'. There are lots of folks here with much more experience, wait as long as you can to decide and get more opinions.
Wish I could have given you a more decisive answer.
Good luck and let us know what you decide along with some pics of your new rig - we love pics. KW
I've always heard your implement should typically be 1' for every 5hp. Last fall I got a 4' King Kutter box blade for my 18hp BX and have used it to resmooth and fill low spots in my gravel driveway with the rippers out (or at least all the way up) but tilted aggresively to get a good bite of packed gravel. I've also used it with rippers all the way down to tear up soil and gravel mix to level back yard 'driveway'. This filled the box and my little 18hp handeled it all really easily. I have't gotten to any roots yet and I still intend to cut in some swails for drainage. From my limited use with the box blade (maybe 8 hrs so far) I'd say I could have even maybe gotten a 5' as I have not many trees or narrow areas to contend with. One thing is to stay in low gear, I even keep her in 4 wheel drive and go SLOW. Bulk of the hard work is done going forward, rear blade just for smoothing material in reverse - don't try cutting in reverse. If you get the 5' and it's hard to pull or eat you'd just need to take smaller bites as stated already so the project may take you as long as if you were using a 4'. There are lots of folks here with much more experience, wait as long as you can to decide and get more opinions.
Wish I could have given you a more decisive answer.
Good luck and let us know what you decide along with some pics of your new rig - we love pics. KW
/pine
Super Star Member
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Before you take delivery...you might get a quote on some rear hydraulics...
...One of the very first things you will learn about using a box blade is that being able to quickly change the cutting angle by adjusting the top link is imperative...a hydraulic top link greatly reduces the learning curve of this process...
...likewise with a hydraulic tilt cylinder...
BTW...I have a smaller tractor and I pull a 60" bb with no problems...
...One of the very first things you will learn about using a box blade is that being able to quickly change the cutting angle by adjusting the top link is imperative...a hydraulic top link greatly reduces the learning curve of this process...
...likewise with a hydraulic tilt cylinder...
BTW...I have a smaller tractor and I pull a 60" bb with no problems...
kw22614
Platinum Member
As slash pine says a hydraulic tnt would be great. Too expensive for me though, I just keep getting on and off. I think it helps you learn how to use it faster to cut down on the trips in and out of the seat.....
Kioti Tom
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When I bought my DS4510, I had a 5 ft box blade from using on my 8N. It was a pain
in the rear having to adjust the sway links to get it all the way to one side so I could
do some ditch digging. I was putting a run off off the side of a hill to keep it from
going in a friends stable. Got the job done, but, ended selling it to the guy who
bought my 2N and got a 6 footer from EA. Really helps now and much easier to use.
My tires are 68" outside to outside and having the 2" overhang is much easier to
use and see what you are doing and not scraping the rear tires against the hillside
rocks sticking out.
By the way: :welcome: to TBN
Tom
in the rear having to adjust the sway links to get it all the way to one side so I could
do some ditch digging. I was putting a run off off the side of a hill to keep it from
going in a friends stable. Got the job done, but, ended selling it to the guy who
bought my 2N and got a 6 footer from EA. Really helps now and much easier to use.
My tires are 68" outside to outside and having the 2" overhang is much easier to
use and see what you are doing and not scraping the rear tires against the hillside
rocks sticking out.
By the way: :welcome: to TBN
Tom
oosik
Epic Contributor
BTW - Welcome to TBN. The land where advice on how to spend your money is never-ending. Well, lets see - I have a mile long gravel driveway. I use a rear blade for winter snow removal, a roll over box blade to move quantities of dirt/gravel to maintain the driveway and a grading scraper to do rough and finish grading on the driveway. You are in snow country so you will need something to move snow. A rear blade works best for that. Unless you want to break the bank and get a pto driven, 3-point mounted, snow thrower. To maintain and repair your driveway a grading scraper is the easiest to learn but a box scraper can do the same thing it will just have a longer learning curve. I finally broke down and got a hydraulic tilt top device. Wish I would have got it years ago. What it does is angle the cutting blade on both the box scraper and/or grading scraper and makes it a much more efficient implement. I used to say - OH, I'll never need or use a hydraulic top. But what was really happening was as I chugged down the driveway with my grading scraper - I'd look back and recognize that it would be doing better if I changed the cutting angle a little. However, since that meant stopping the tractor and manually adjusting the top link - I'd just say - what the he** and go on with it being set at less than optimum. Now, I can grab my rear hydro lever and while still moving I can optimize the cutting angle. Makes a WORLD of difference.
And for that box scraper - get one as heavy as possible and at least as wide as your rear tires.
Most important - enjoy using your new tractor - safely.
And for that box scraper - get one as heavy as possible and at least as wide as your rear tires.
Most important - enjoy using your new tractor - safely.