Replacing teeth on scarifier shanks

   / Replacing teeth on scarifier shanks #1  

edkemper

Gold Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2013
Messages
305
Location
Klamath Falls, Oregon
Tractor
JD 210LE, Case 580CK Series B Backhoe, 1991 WoodMizer LT40 Log Mill, 1989 JD450E Crawler Tractor, FordsonMajorDiesel
I have a JD210LE. I want to replace the teeth (ends) on the scarifier shanks. The shanks have a dimple (shallow hole) on each side and the teeth have a hole in them that lines up with the dimple. I am supposed to dimple (punch) the hole in the teeth into the dimple on the shanks to hold them on the shank. If that makes any sense.

Do I pound a punch to cave in the hole on the teeth or should I just remove the shanks and take them and the teeth to a shop to have them use a press to install the teeth?

I can buy a 12 ton free standing shop press or an 8 ton bench press from harbor freight for $130/$75 respectively and I could do the repair myself.

Any guidance would be appreciated. :confused:
 
   / Replacing teeth on scarifier shanks #2  
hammer and punch
 
   / Replacing teeth on scarifier shanks
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I'll give it a try. The steel is pretty hefty. Gotta pry the old one's off. The punch will have to be fairly stout. But I'll give it a whirl. Thanks.
 
   / Replacing teeth on scarifier shanks #4  
[snip]
Do I pound a punch to cave in the hole on the teeth or should I just remove the shanks and take them and the teeth to a shop to have them use a press to install the teeth?

I can buy a 12 ton free standing shop press or an 8 ton bench press from harbor freight for $130/$75 respectively and I could do the repair myself.
[snip]

Unless you have access to an oxy acetylene torch to heat the walls of the teeth first, I doubt you'll be able to punch the sides into the shanks' dimples so they'll be really secure without hydraulics. But would you have further use for a big hydraulic press if you bought one? I'd price having this done at a local machine shop first, if you want to press them on. But I've lost teeth that were pressed on even by the factory. For $170 more than price of the 12 ton HF press, you can get HF's 170 amp 220v MIG welder and just tack the teeth to the shanks with a few deep welds. Then you'll have a tool you can use for many more projects. I've replaced the teeth this way on two box blades over the years with a fairly small MIG welder (155 amp 220v Lincoln Electric). I've gotten great penetration without the need to pre-heat the shanks, and the teeth stay on. To replace when worn out, just hit the welds with an angle grinder.
 
   / Replacing teeth on scarifier shanks #5  
Also, rather than trying to drive off the worn teeth, just drill out the dimples, if you have access to a drill press. A 7/16" or 1/2" bit should do the trick for you. Once you're almost through the walls on both sides, you can knock the teeth off easily with a drift and a hammer.
 
   / Replacing teeth on scarifier shanks
  • Thread Starter
#6  
You mean the:

170 Amp MIG/Flux Wire Welder - 22 Volts @ 110 Amps
Item #68885 On Sale for $199.99?

Are you suggesting that I buy a new boy toy that I could use on many other projects?

Actually, this seems to be a good idea. I need a welder. I have to admit a couple of the old teeth are a little loose. So tacking them sounds right.

I would definitely find a few occasional uses for a press but I could find many projects for a welder. Thanks. Unless I hear of a reason not to do it this way, I think you gave me my solution.
 
   / Replacing teeth on scarifier shanks
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I should be able to run that welder with my 5600/8600 surge 30amp generator, shouldn't I? The tech on the welder says it's 20 amps.
 
Last edited:
   / Replacing teeth on scarifier shanks #8  
I should be able to run that welder with my 6500 generator, shouldn't I?

That's the welder I had in mind, since you'd mentioned HF. Yes, any excuse to by a new tool is a good one, IMO. The reviews seem fairly positive. I think you could run it on your 6500W generator (I'm assuming that's the max output and that running watts are around 5000 or 5500, and that it has a 20 amp 220v receptacle), but I'd first call HF's tech support line and ask them. You'll likely need to make up a pigtail adapter to match the welder's plug on one end and the 220v receptacle on the gen set on the other. No big deal, but check with HF first before going to the expense and trouble. I ran my 155 amp 220v Lincoln Electric on a construction generator that size a few years back. Your duty cycle may be reduced. There are folks on this board with much more welding experience than me that may jump in here.
 
   / Replacing teeth on scarifier shanks
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I corrected the size of my gen. it's a 30amp 220. I went ahead and placed an order. I already have the 220 pigtail from a prior travel trailer hook-up I had.

I appreciate the help. My wife also agrees with you, I need the welder. I am truly a lucky man.
 

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