Replacing Ignition Switch on CK20

[NHCK20]

Hi,

I bought my CK 20 in March 2006. It has been a great tractor all these years and only has 275 hours. But the ignition switches are not very good and I need to replace the switch for the 3rd time. The second time I did this was years ago and I need help. I believe I was to remove the front panel under steering wheel and I have remove the 4 front and 2 side bolts. But I have forgotten how to get the panel off over the brake level! the red handle will not slip thru the slot. I thought I removed it last time but can't remember. If someone could give me some instructions, that would be great.

PS. I tried to call my local Kioti dealer Upper Valley Kioti in Enfield NH for help, but their number is disconnected and the website is gone. Does anyone in New Hampshire area know what happened?

PSS. My current switch is very bad, and if I wiggle the switch about 50 to 70 times and hold it in a certain position for a while I can get the tractor started. But the last time I did this it made a crack noise and the lights won't come on or will the temp gauge work and the switch would not turn off the tractor (I used the fuel line kill switch). Would a really bad ignition switch cause the lights and gauge to not work? Or did I blow a fuse?

Thanks for any help.

Lee

 

[Patches]

Can't help you with the panel removal (have a 3054), but it sure sounds like you fried a fuse, and it's my understanding they are out of business

 

[tnmike]

I just replaced the key switch on my ck20s hst. The front panel is tight on the through levers but it will come off. Move them up and down as you pull it. I had to remove the tranny plastic cover plate to get enough angle to do that. Plan on removing all the screws in the dash. The switch plug is behind the instrument cluster. No way to get to it from below. There is a metal stay tab you cannot see from below that must be bent up to allow the switch harness to come free.

Plan on two hours. Fixed my problem. Should fix yours.

 

[ritcheyvs]

For what it's worth, a few shots of WD40 (electrical contact cleaner or fluid film are even better) in the key hole (followed by turning the key several times) may fix the switch problem without replacing it. Some of us do this annually as preventive maintenance.

 

[RNeumann]

For what it's worth, a few shots of WD40 (electrical contact cleaner or fluid film are even better) in the key hole (followed by turning the key several times) may fix the switch problem without replacing it. Some of us do this annually as preventive maintenance.

Good tip and thx for posting this

 

[Phil48]

Good tip and thx for posting this

might help!
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...nition-key-switch.html?highlight=#post3999974

 

[Everhard]

Most definitely do not replace it! I took out my original switch, took it apart, cleaned it and put it back in. No problems, I've got around 460hrs on the clock now. The only thing to be careful of when taking it apart is there's a spring and a couple small ball bearings that like to go flying. I am pretty sure there's a post on here somewhere that actually had pictures of the process.

I loosened off the panel and shifted it a bit but didn't completely remove it. just enough to get my hands in to be able to get the ignition switch out.

If you've already bought a replacement then stick it in and clean up the old one, then you'll have a spare ready to go.

E.

 

[Everhard]

Here's a useful link: ignition_switch

E.

 

[K man]

Here's a useful link: ignition_switch

E.

That is a great explanation thanks for posting. I will remember this whenever I have any key switch problems.:thumbsup:

 

[PatasColo]

... But I have forgotten how to get the panel off over the brake level! the red handle will not slip thru the slot. I thought I removed it last time but can't remember. If someone could give me some instructions, that would be great....

In case anyone else needs to remove that panel, I just had to remove that same front panel a month back (ck20s). Yes, you remove the red rubber cover and the yellow rubber cover from the brake and cruise controls respectively (just the rubber covers; the actual metal handles remain in place). They are on with friction-fit only (unless some "helpful" service person or so decided to glue them on with something beyond that! :confused2: ).