Replacing a 1715 rear rim

Dataway · Nov 11, 2019

I am thinking about buying this item: https://www.steinertractor.com/WHS038-10-x-24-Blank-Rear-Rim

One of the rims on my 1715 is rusted out and this appears to be the exact same outer rim .... which I would weld to my old center section.

Couple of questions ... anyone ever done this before, I have no doubts about my ability to do it, just wondering if anyone has ever used one of these rims before.

And ... Is the original 11.2 x 24 AG tire on the 1715 Tubeless, or tube type? Or either? This new rim says it's not designed for tubeless tires. I will be replacing the tire at the same time. My current tire has plugs in it, so I'm assuming it's tubeless. Can I run tubes anyway? Not sure why it says the rim is not designed to be used tubeless ... it appears identical to the OEM rims.

I'd prefer to go with a tube anyway .... can tubes be filled?

Thanks

billybobjimmyjoejack · Nov 14, 2019

I have original rims and tires on the rear of my 1715 and they have tubes that are filled. Using filled tubes should help to reduce corrosion of the rims.

Dataway · Nov 14, 2019

Excellent, thank you. That's one worry gone.

fried1765 · Nov 14, 2019

billybobjimmyjoejack said:
I have original rims and tires on the rear of my 1715 and they have tubes that are filled. Using filled tubes should help to reduce corrosion of the rims.

My 1920 had CaCl (with tubes), in the rears when I bought it.
Rims were badly rotted!
I replaced them.

Dataway · Nov 14, 2019

fried1765 said:
My 1920 had CaCl (with tubes), in the rears when I bought it.
Rims were badly rotted!
I replaced them.

EXACTLY what I'm dealing with ... before I bought it (used) the dealer replaced one of the rear wheels and tire and filled with something other than CaCL ... that wheel is fine. The original that was filled with CaCL is rotted.

fried1765 · Nov 14, 2019

Dataway said:
EXACTLY what I'm dealing with ... before I bought it (used) the dealer replaced one of the rear wheels and tire and filled with something other than CaCL ... that wheel is fine. The original that was filled with CaCL is rotted.

I just realized why you are having a difficult time finding replacement rims.
My 1920 has the loop style rims, and they are readily available.
As I recall, the 1715 has a very different rim/center combination.

Dataway · Nov 19, 2019

Yep, the 1715 being the simple economy version of the 1720 it has welded rims.

However I have a new outer rim in the shop right now, found one at Steiner's, about $135 delivered. Looks to be the right size, and a decent part ... so within a month or so I should have it on the bench welding in the center section from the OEM wheel. The welding works looks like it will be easy enough ... the hard part will be wrestling with the old tire/rim, removing whatever it is filled with, cutting off the old tire and preparing the old center section for re-use.

I'll try to document the whole process ... way cheaper than spending about $650 on a new OEM rim.

rayikeo2 · Nov 21, 2019

I have a 1979/80 1700 4x4 and just replaced both rear rims because of rust. My rims were bolt on and I got 2 identical rimes when I bought new tires for the rims were less money than you quoted for original equipment rims. Never heard of weld on rims.

Dataway · Nov 27, 2019

Here is a photo of a 1715 welded wheel ... the center hub has flanges on the inside that weld to the outer rim.

fried1765 · Nov 27, 2019

Dataway said:
Here is a photo of a 1715 welded wheel ... the center hub has flanges on the inside that weld to the outer rim.

Yup.....I have a little Ford model with those very same wheels, sitting right here on my desk.

Dataway · Nov 27, 2019

The wheels on your model are probably stronger than one of mine right now

Dataway · Apr 12, 2020

The 1715 rear wheel/tire replacement project is under way. Pics below show how I am cutting the center out of the old wheel and welding it to the new rim.

1. Drill a hole in the old tire and drain the fill (valve stem rusted shut), not much was in it, most had leaked out.
2. Cut the tire off with a sawzall
3. Bring the old wheel in, lay it on the shop floor and measure from the floor to the bottom of the hub, then cut a metal spacer to those measurements.
4. Cut the old hub center out of the old wheel, I used an air cutoff tool
5. Test fit the old center in the new wheel using the previous made spacer to position it for the correct offset.

That's as far as I have gotten.

6. Sand blast the old center
7. Weld to the new rim
8. Paint
9. Mount the tire and fill

Got a this new tire delivered to my door for $213 ... not sure why it went up in one week: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011O2C2NU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$60 cheaper than the next nearest price and I didn't have to pick it up at the freight office one hour away. Rim was about $130. Plan on mounting it myself ... did a quick test with the new rim and it seems doable by hand (and large pry bars).
About two hours from getting the tractor up to getting the center cut out. Beats $600 for a new wheel assembly from New Holland.

billybobjimmyjoejack · Apr 12, 2020

If you use a soapy water solution for lubrication between tire a rim mounting the tires by hand will be easier than mounting them dry.

Dataway · Apr 13, 2020

I've got a jug of "Ru-Glide" here ... super slippery .. made for mounting tires .. but needs to dry before putting things under or a lot of load or the rim may spin in the tire.

On that topic ... I hear of a lot of people tearing the valve stem out of their tubes when the tire slips on the rim ... is this common? Is there a way to prevent it? I worry that with a new tire, and a newly painted glossy rim that slippage might be a problem.