techguy2
New member
anyone found a aftermarket supplier for the kubota BX 60 inch standard mowing deck?
Mowing Replacement Mower Blades for BX
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dex3361
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2008
- Messages
- 3,494
- Location
- N. of Charleston WV
- Tractor
- Kubota L4400-1 HST,FEL, 3x3 remotes, TNT. BX1500 54 mmm
Welcome to TBN. I found replacements here with some looking. Lawn Mower Blades Made To Fit Your Mower Available at Agri Supply
OP
techguy2
New member
Thanks for the info and the welcome!
Long time lurker, but finally decided to sign up.
Long time lurker, but finally decided to sign up.
timswi
Elite Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2008
- Messages
- 4,997
- Location
- Beaver County Pa
- Tractor
- Kubota BX23 TLB, Kubota RTV1100, Kubota Z724 & Polaris RZR 900 Trail
Welcome to TBN...I bought mine from Kubota...Don't remember them being too punishing as far as price. Besides, how often do you need to replace them. Mine, after 4 years.
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techguy2
New member
I have lots of clay and it is heck on the blades (or rather the crawfish chimneys are). Local kubota shop wants 20 bucks per blade. It normally costs 20 bucks or so to have them sharpened.
I did have one question though..
I have the RCK60B-23BX standard cut deck
and I use the K5371-99040 blades on them.
I can't seem to find them in cross reference for any of the aftermarket blades.
Itlooks like the 96-612 blades will work. Can anyone confirm?
I did have one question though..
I have the RCK60B-23BX standard cut deck
and I use the K5371-99040 blades on them.
I can't seem to find them in cross reference for any of the aftermarket blades.
Itlooks like the 96-612 blades will work. Can anyone confirm?
mantis
Bronze Member
West of Houston? I'm kind of west of Houston... if you add some south in the mix as well... my current house is in Sugar Land, but I've picked up some acreage in Needville.
I love walking through the area after mowing down the crawfish chimneys, and seeing crawfish parts scattered about.:laughing:
I love walking through the area after mowing down the crawfish chimneys, and seeing crawfish parts scattered about.:laughing:
rdsaustintx
Veteran Member
You will have a very tough time finding aftermarket blades that fit. Do a search on gator blades and you will find a lot of discussion on how to make adapter bushings. Gator blades have mixed reviews.
You can find stock blades at online sources (TractorSmart, Messicks, Carver, etc.).
You can find stock blades at online sources (TractorSmart, Messicks, Carver, etc.).
OP
techguy2
New member
I am actually in Fulshear, so not too far from Needville!
My problem is that they do give a satisfying clunk when they are dry, but when wet, they sure mix with grass and make a great cement under the deck!
Tom_H
Veteran Member
Sharpening them yourself isn't that bad. I have mulching blades on my 60" deck and I've sharpened them once a year for 10 years now. You can find lots of info on sharpening in the archives. Our pocket gophers push up big mounds of the clay, as well as rocks that are down in the clay. Though I try to kick them down before mowing, the blades still hit lots of rocks.
Basically, You need a wooden block to stop the blade and a big wrench, or at least a cheater pipe to extend the length, to get the blades off. You need a bench vice (preferably bolted down) to hold the blades, and an angle grinder. I got my vice and grinder from Harbor Freight for about $20 each. They come in handy for lots of other stuff too. A cutoff disc on an angle grinder cuts through metal much easier than a hacksaw blade on a reciprocating saw.
I won't go into grinding technique very much here. You need not to overheat the metal, though, so you don't distemper it. Wear eye protection. Be aware that grinding perpendicularly to the blade leaves a concave cut (can't remember the big vocab word for that right off); this can be minimized by turning the grinder and somewhat grinding with the planar (flat) side of the grinding disc. the more chamfered/beveled the edge, the thinner and sharper the metal, BUT the shorter the time it will stay sharp. New blades have a crisp edge but are around 80 degrees. You don't want an edge like a knife. I sharpen mine to about 40 degrees.
It's important to insure that the blade is balanced. Unbalanced blades can cause excessive vibration when the MMM runs. There are fancy gadgets for this task, but I just hang the blade on a little finish nail I have sticking out from a wooden storage shelf and make sure the hole is centered on the nail. If one side drops down, I just grind a little more off that side until the blade balances.
Clean the deck while the blades are off. When you put the blades back on, torque appropriately. Make sure to hit all the zerks with a grease gun. Check the belt.
Remember-tons more info in the archives-use the search function. Hope this helps.
Basically, You need a wooden block to stop the blade and a big wrench, or at least a cheater pipe to extend the length, to get the blades off. You need a bench vice (preferably bolted down) to hold the blades, and an angle grinder. I got my vice and grinder from Harbor Freight for about $20 each. They come in handy for lots of other stuff too. A cutoff disc on an angle grinder cuts through metal much easier than a hacksaw blade on a reciprocating saw.
I won't go into grinding technique very much here. You need not to overheat the metal, though, so you don't distemper it. Wear eye protection. Be aware that grinding perpendicularly to the blade leaves a concave cut (can't remember the big vocab word for that right off); this can be minimized by turning the grinder and somewhat grinding with the planar (flat) side of the grinding disc. the more chamfered/beveled the edge, the thinner and sharper the metal, BUT the shorter the time it will stay sharp. New blades have a crisp edge but are around 80 degrees. You don't want an edge like a knife. I sharpen mine to about 40 degrees.
It's important to insure that the blade is balanced. Unbalanced blades can cause excessive vibration when the MMM runs. There are fancy gadgets for this task, but I just hang the blade on a little finish nail I have sticking out from a wooden storage shelf and make sure the hole is centered on the nail. If one side drops down, I just grind a little more off that side until the blade balances.
Clean the deck while the blades are off. When you put the blades back on, torque appropriately. Make sure to hit all the zerks with a grease gun. Check the belt.
Remember-tons more info in the archives-use the search function. Hope this helps.
BleedingOrange
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2011
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- 1,041
- Tractor
- Kubota BX 2370
Bringing this back up to the top once again. Has anyone found good direct replacement gator blades for the 60 inch deck ? Not interested in using washers, must have the 11/16th inch hole.