Replace Fan Belt BX25

[Tractor Seabee]

Anyone replace the alternator/fan belt on their BX 25?

Before I pull the drive line to get the old belt off and new belt on lower pulley it would be good to know if there is enough end play to get the old belt off and new on. Cannot find any discussion on this in the WSM. Parts Manual shows how it is all assembled.

Anyone have an easy way to get at the bottom bolt on the alternator? I was able to gentle bump the alternator up to remove belt but am sure that is not the right way. I would hate to see the bill if I had a dealer do this.

They sure do not give any room to work on stuff.

Ron

 

[TractorTech]

Don’t remember the alternator bolt, but the shaft has just enough flexibility to get the fan belt off and on.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Don’t remember the alternator bolt, but the shaft has just enough flexibility to get the fan belt off and on.

Thanks Tech, that is the key. Probably won't worry over the bolt. Cannot reach it w/o removing obstructing items. No probably just pry it back, Iwll probably never replace t again in my lifetime. Ron

 

[frogpond]

I just did that job on my bx25d. Yes, it is a pain. To get at the bottom bolt on the alternator, I had to remove the side cowling, which necessitated first removing the brush guard. To detach the drive shaft coupler, I used a cordless impact driver (highly recommended ) from below. To rotate the assembly and reach all three of the machine screws, I used a screwdriver inserted between the legs of the coupler. Make sure to paint a registration mark before disassembly to aid re-alignment later.

Only after completion did my SIL happen to mention that Milwaukee makes a $30 right angle attachment for impact drivers that would have made it easier. Got his at Home Depot. All the bolts on the alternator and the shaft coupler are 12mm. A geared wrench and a socket wth short extension worked on the alternator bolts.

Getting the belt through between the shaft coupler and the engine was annoying but not excruciating. Getting it around the fan blades was easy. I would advise putting it on the fan pulley last. You will need to lever it on using a couple of screwdrivers or similar.

Altogether pretty annoying, including getting the cowling back on, then the brush guard. The tractor is at 1600 hours, and perhaps I won't be around when it needs replacement again, theoretically at 3200 hours.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I just did that job on my bx25d. Yes, it is a pain. To get at the bottom bolt on the alternator, I had to remove the side cowling, which necessitated first removing the brush guard. To detach the drive shaft coupler, I used a cordless impact driver (highly recommended ) from below. To rotate the assembly and reach all three of the machine screws, I used a screwdriver inserted between the legs of the coupler. Make sure to paint a registration mark before disassembly to aid re-alignment later.

Only after completion did my SIL happen to mention that Milwaukee makes a $30 right angle attachment for impact drivers that would have made it easier. Got his at Home Depot. All the bolts on the alternator and the shaft coupler are 12mm. A geared wrench and a socket wth short extension worked on the alternator bolts.

Getting the belt through between the shaft coupler and the engine was annoying but not excruciating. Getting it around the fan blades was easy. I would advise putting it on the fan pulley last. You will need to lever it on using a couple of screwdrivers or similar.

Altogether pretty annoying, including getting the cowling back on, then the brush guard. The tractor is at 1600 hours, and perhaps I won't be around when it needs replacement again, theoretically at 3200 hours.

Thanks for responding Frogpond

I worked on it today and got the new belt past the shaft flange. Not as easy as you purport. Blocking the shaft at the front flywheel required several crawls to reset the Tee Bar socket. Crawling around on the ground is a bear for this old man. Guess what? The belt provided by the dealer parts department was the wrong one. The Part number in My Parts List book is wrong. Now I have to wait for the right part plus do it all over.

For backyard mechanics future reference on this task, the right part # is 16881-97010 not 15881-97010. The OEM item is a Mitsubishi REMF-1350. the one they sent me was a 1345. Way too short. Redoing the flange part is on me as I should have compared the new and old Mitsubishi #s before installing.

In retrospect I could save a lot of time and frustration if I had a helper working from the top side.

Ron