Repairing cinder block wall

[lennyzx11]

After we moved here last year I noticed a large tree growing next to my garage stem wall.
It had pushed the blocks loose and groundwater and chipmunks was getting in.
I’ve been digging and leveling in order to build on so removing the stump and repairing the damaged area was first order of business.
Here’s the end of day 1.


Trip to box store for mortar and replacement blocks are in my near future(tomorrow).

 

[Diggin It]

T'were it me, I'd be taking more away from that back wall too and getting rid of that grass/sod so close to the siding. Then I'd be planning on adding some drain pipe for that downspout to direct water away.

 

[lennyzx11]

T'were it me, I'd be taking more away from that back wall too and getting rid of that grass/sod so close to the siding. Then I'd be planning on adding some drain pipe for that downspout to direct water away.

Yes. That’s the plan. This whole area had grown up against the building. I’m going to dig that back out and put a French drain along it before putting up the lean to. with a swale outside of that, maybe this will correct my problem areas.

That gutter and downspout are trash. I just haven’t made it that far down “the list”.

 

[EddieWalker]

Looks like one of those projects that you just have to keep at it regardless of what you have to deal with. Nice that you have a backhoe to get down to the problem!!!

I'm not a fan of French Drains. When clients call me, it's because they already paid for a french drain and it's failed. I believe that they all fail in time and they are a waste of money. I like ditches. Big and wide!!

 

[lennyzx11]

Looks like one of those projects that you just have to keep at it regardless of what you have to deal with. Nice that you have a backhoe to get down to the problem!!!

I'm not a fan of French Drains. When clients call me, it's because they already paid for a french drain and it's failed. I believe that they all fail in time and they are a waste of money. I like ditches. Big and wide!!

Good to know. I’ll rethink my strategy. That back wall is getting a 12 ft wide lean to but the ground is gently sloping up from that wall.
Maybe a cinder block stem wall on the outer edge of the lean to, then a ditch and swale after that? The floor is going to be crusher run over some base. I was planning on a culvert or a perf pipe on the bottom of the shop wall with the hopes that the lean to roof would direct water away from that wall.

I have to dig that back wall out to relieve the pressure on it and attempt to push the bow inwards it has developed. It was built in a he early 40s the previous owner told me.

 

[Cat_Driver]

If it was my house I'd replace the cinder block with a good 5,000 PSI concrete mixed with stainless stell fibers.

 

[/pine]

Looks like one of those projects that you just have to keep at it regardless of what you have to deal with. Nice that you have a backhoe to get down to the problem!!!

I'm not a fan of French Drains. When clients call me, it's because they already paid for a french drain and it's failed. I believe that they all fail in time and they are a waste of money. I like ditches. Big and wide!!

The main reason a properly installed french drain fails is because it was too small (size of pipe and amount of gravel) for the applicable perc rate

There is no real difference between what is called a french drain and a septic system leach line...before infiltrators etc...many of these drains have been working for a long, long time often under constant use without fail.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Never heard of SS fibers. Only glass.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Never heard of SS fibers. Only glass.

They are avaliable in many materials, steel, fiberglass, polypropylene, as well as SS.

Ron

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Good to know. I’ll rethink my strategy. That back wall is getting a 12 ft wide lean to but the ground is gently sloping up from that wall.
Maybe a cinder block stem wall on the outer edge of the lean to, then a ditch and swale after that? The floor is going to be crusher run over some base. I was planning on a culvert or a perf pipe on the bottom of the shop wall with the hopes that the lean to roof would direct water away from that wall.

I have to dig that back wall out to relieve the pressure on it and attempt to push the bow inwards it has developed. It was built in a he early 40s the previous owner told me.

I would wok both directions till I see no more cracked joints or blocks. That is your new cut line. Probably need to shore up the floor in that corner too. AS Cat driver said; replace with concrete unless you are a good block layer. Use high strength mortar if blocks are chosen. I have don a couple similar projects in my far past.

Ron

 

[lennyzx11]

I would wok both directions till I see no more cracked joints or blocks. That is your new cut line. Probably need to shore up the floor in that corner too. AS Cat driver said; replace with concrete unless you are a good block layer. Use high strength mortar if blocks are chosen. I have don a couple similar projects in my far past.

Ron

So basically remove the bad blocks, form a flat surface on both sides and fill with high strength concrete?
Not quite sure how to do the last few inches on top under the sill plate but maybe leave enough room to get a trowel in and pack it in. Then after it sets, fill the last little bit.

 

[fried1765]

So basically remove the bad blocks, form a flat surface on both sides and fill with high strength concrete?
Not quite sure how to do the last few inches on top under the sill plate but maybe leave enough room to get a trowel in and pack it in. Then after it sets, fill the last little bit.

Pour it, but leave the proper space for a row or two of mortared bricks across the top.

 

[Egon]

Frame up the inside and outside to above the sill plate only wider. Pour concrete in the gap between the sill and forming. Overfill a little to ensure concrete that is in full contact wit the sill.

Another way would be to form in a metal plate on rebar supports that fits flush with the sill. Fill in the gap with grout.

 

[HillStreet]

I would also evaluate the sill. It looks like that could be badly decayed so incorporate that into your job.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Replace the sill plate last. Jack the corner up slightly above level, then set it down on he new sill plate. Even with block put some K web in the horizontal joints and a few vertical rods tied to the K web and concrete grout in the cells.

Ron

 

[lennyzx11]

Between the rain showers I got a little more done on my garage foundation. Of course this has turned into a bigger job than planned.
Dug the bowing back wall out pushed back in place with tractor, pressure washed the wall off is where I’m at. Plan on a 4” perforated pipe and French drain next with a 60 mil membrane against the outside of the wall.

This all started from a tree allowed to grow next to the foundation in the past by previous owner.

 

[Egon]

From the one picture consider getting underneath and checking all the floor components for rot.

 

[EddieWalker]

Good to see that you are still at it.

 

[lennyzx11]

From the one picture consider getting underneath and checking all the floor components for rot.

The floor is slab there at the bottom of the hole in the concrete. It and the sill plate on top op the blocks appear and n good shape the wooden siding bottom courses are rotted but I am going to replace that as the build the 30x40 addition. This area is getting a leanto for implement parking so I want to fix this mess before I build that over it.

I’m decent with the backhoe but there are a few “beauty marks” on the building from the touchy control valves!
So I better wait till back hoe is outta there before doing that!

 

[lennyzx11]

Update 15AUG19
Patched the holes and bad places in the outer wall with concrete mix and cement.

Had the first aww man... after the HF mixer tried to fall over on me. Looking at the certified repair you can see a bolt head sticking out slightly. (By the U in Husky).
The inner tubing broke in half around the bolt holes and when I went to dump a full tub, it pulled out dumping everything on me, the bucket, and ground.
I practiced a few of my choicest words that I’m never allowed to used when my 5 yr old granddaughter is near.
Nope, you guys can’t see my masonry work. It is just that good. Yeah right.

Got the membrane on. HINT don’t be stubborn like me. Get somebody to help you roll and stick this. I caught h3ll on this by myself.

Laid about 6-8” gravel, then 4” perf pipe wrapped in landscape fabric.
Then covered with the front bucket.
Here’s a question. Should I fill the whole trench with gravel back up to grade or start covering it back with dirt?
This will be a gravel floored lean to eventually with gutters so water should hopefully not be a problem going forward.