Removing the Fuel Injector Pump

[wukong]

I own the John Deere JD400 in the attached photo. I have attempted to remove the Fuel Injector Pump (Roosa Master AT22628) without success as it no longer functions. The fuel lines and throttle adjuster rod have have been disconnected and the two nuts holding the device to the engine have been removed. An inspection plate in front of the gear housing has been removed and there appears to be a 3/16 Allen bolt in the shaft that turns the pump. When this bolt is turned the pump also turns. How does one lock the shaft so that the bolt can be removed? Also does this bolt have a standard thread? What pit falls does one need to watch for when this pump is removed and reinstalled after a rebuild?

 

[thepumpguysc]

U see that "post" lookin thing that "looks like" it serves no purpose, on the pump towards the block.??
Remove it & turn it around so it sticks into the pump.. THATS the timing pin.
It will stop things from turning but u gotta have the engine on # 1 compression stroke for it to fall into place..
Good luck & don't forget to put the pin back in the pump..

 

[wukong]

Thank you for your expeditious response. The bolt that must be removed. Is it a normal thread where you turn counterclockwise to remove? I hate making assumptions as I'm a pilot and my training is to break things.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yes, lefty loosey, righty tighty..
It would be mighty hard to break that pin.. it was made to last.. unlike the plastic timing pins nowadays.
What do u plan on doing w/ the inj. pump.?? Send it off & get the machine running.?? DONT FORGET about the injectors..
Cuz once the pump starts pumping, that pressure has to go somewhere.. & IF the injectors don't open{stuck} the pressure builds & seizes the inj. pump..
THEN your stuck w/ a 2000.00 bill.. or a good lookin boat anchor..

 

[wukong]

I plan to take the pump to the local John Deere dealer to have it overhauled. The machine is a little over a one hour drive from my home. As such is there any special tools necessary to remove the injectors. Also, "u gotta have the engine on # 1 compression stroke for it to fall into place.." Are you saying to position the #1 piston at the bottom as it enters the compression stroke or TDC after the compression stroke? Do you have a technique for determining the position of the piston. I am thankful for your sage advice.

 

[jd110]

In your photo, there is no wire connected to the fuel shut off solenoid. That needs to have 12 volts to it in order for pump to deliver fuel. There is another timing pin in the flywheel housing that engages the flywheel when engine is on tdc. Just like on the pump, remove the timing pin from flywheel housing and turn it around to stick pin in hole. Hold tension in on pin while turning engine over by hand. Pin will fall in hole in flywheel when at tdc. If pin in pump is not aligned, then engine is on tdc exhaust. Turn engine until pin falls in hole again and engine is then at tdc compression.

 

[wukong]

I have turned gasoline powered engine cranks by removing the starter and prying the crank about using a screwdriver. Is there a better method to use on this engine? Also where on the clutch housing is the locking pin located? Pardon my questions but I hate assumptions.

 

[thepumpguysc]

U REALLY DONT HAVE TO TIME IT.. U asked how to stop it from turning.. BUT U should time it..
The pin will fall in the pump around TDC #1 cyl.

 

[Tx Jim]

There should be an engine timing pin(key 4) on LH rear of flywheel housing. Unscrew pin & insert long end in threaded hole. When correctly timed on TDC pin will fit in depression on flywheel.

 

[Zebrafive]

To clarify what TxJim posted above; the "rear" of the flywheel housing faces forward and mount to rear of the engine. Clutch housing then bolts to it.


I would have called it the "front" of the flywheel housing, but that might have been the wrong name