I have both Kioti rear hydraulic remote sets on my DK45HSE and use them for top and tilt for my box blade. The long handled remote control lever also has a long travel and easy usage/3PH implement adjustability because of it. The short control lever has detents at either end of its very short travel and is difficult to use for my intended tasks. And with its very short travel and detents, I would think the only viable use of this valve would be for something that requires continuous flow, like a log splitter. I find the detented valve nearly useless for my application.
I stumbled onto a post response on TBN last week where the responder supplied the following URL on YouTube, where a gentleman with a DK40 was removing the detents from his valve. It is very easy and I have just completed the detent removal on mine. I would thank the poster profusely but neglected to keep the contact information. So if he/she happens to read this, THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Hydraulic valve work - YouTube
I will add some caveats:
1- The front valve "cover' that needs to be removed can actually be removed using one of two sizes of wrenches and appears to be an assembly. One wants to remove the whole assembly, which includes the thick, outer nut, the shaft it is mounted on, along with the larger diameter, thinner nut in the rear. I believe the whole assembly is just a cover and nothing more.
The outside nut was apparently used as the removal point in the video using a 24mm wrench. 24mm is too small for mine and I guess 25mm might be the right size, which I did not have. However, a 1" fit a little sloppy, but worked. I turned that outer nut several times and noted the pressure did not release any and I did not seem to be making any headway. I re-examined the situation and was getting a bit concerned as the nut was turning but no progress. I tried one more time and the whole assembly finally broke loose at the rear, behind the inner most nut, that was apparently being held tight with paint.
So I would suggest that if possible use a wrench on the thinner, inner most nut where the assembly is actually held that needs to be removed.
2- Watching the video, I wondered how the 4 ball bearing that had to be removed where held in their mating holes. And as soon as I removed the cover that came off a bit cocked to one side and knocked one of the BBs out, which fell on the ground among the stones and sand, I found out- simply by grease. I would suggest one holds something under this cover when removing it and to have more foresight than I by having a tarp or something under this part of the tractor to catch anything that might fall out. Fortunately I have a large magnet at the end of a wooden pole and after many passes across the ground, finally found the BB.
3- The spring is in the center of the shaft, slid back into the shaft but not under pressure. I had to coax mine out using a tiny flat tip screw driver through one of the three side holes the smaller BBs came out of.
I did a function test before putting the large metal cover and seat back in, but this is not rocket science. There is nothing to leak. I believe this assembly is simply added on to the hydraulics part of the valve simply to act as a mechanical stop-detent. Odds are it would run fine without the cover on it, but would be a dirty mess to clean up, should one ever want to put the dent function back together.
I think I will enjoy my T-N-T much more now I do not have to mess with that detented valve. The stroke is not as long as the other handle/valve, but it works far better than before. And should I ever need continuous flow from a remote, I will be very comfortable using a bungee to keep it locked on.
I stumbled onto a post response on TBN last week where the responder supplied the following URL on YouTube, where a gentleman with a DK40 was removing the detents from his valve. It is very easy and I have just completed the detent removal on mine. I would thank the poster profusely but neglected to keep the contact information. So if he/she happens to read this, THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Hydraulic valve work - YouTube
I will add some caveats:
1- The front valve "cover' that needs to be removed can actually be removed using one of two sizes of wrenches and appears to be an assembly. One wants to remove the whole assembly, which includes the thick, outer nut, the shaft it is mounted on, along with the larger diameter, thinner nut in the rear. I believe the whole assembly is just a cover and nothing more.
The outside nut was apparently used as the removal point in the video using a 24mm wrench. 24mm is too small for mine and I guess 25mm might be the right size, which I did not have. However, a 1" fit a little sloppy, but worked. I turned that outer nut several times and noted the pressure did not release any and I did not seem to be making any headway. I re-examined the situation and was getting a bit concerned as the nut was turning but no progress. I tried one more time and the whole assembly finally broke loose at the rear, behind the inner most nut, that was apparently being held tight with paint.
So I would suggest that if possible use a wrench on the thinner, inner most nut where the assembly is actually held that needs to be removed.
2- Watching the video, I wondered how the 4 ball bearing that had to be removed where held in their mating holes. And as soon as I removed the cover that came off a bit cocked to one side and knocked one of the BBs out, which fell on the ground among the stones and sand, I found out- simply by grease. I would suggest one holds something under this cover when removing it and to have more foresight than I by having a tarp or something under this part of the tractor to catch anything that might fall out. Fortunately I have a large magnet at the end of a wooden pole and after many passes across the ground, finally found the BB.
3- The spring is in the center of the shaft, slid back into the shaft but not under pressure. I had to coax mine out using a tiny flat tip screw driver through one of the three side holes the smaller BBs came out of.
I did a function test before putting the large metal cover and seat back in, but this is not rocket science. There is nothing to leak. I believe this assembly is simply added on to the hydraulics part of the valve simply to act as a mechanical stop-detent. Odds are it would run fine without the cover on it, but would be a dirty mess to clean up, should one ever want to put the dent function back together.
I think I will enjoy my T-N-T much more now I do not have to mess with that detented valve. The stroke is not as long as the other handle/valve, but it works far better than before. And should I ever need continuous flow from a remote, I will be very comfortable using a bungee to keep it locked on.
that cover could probably be off no problem with pressure in the system as long as the shaft o-rings were sealing good.
