I am in the process of replacing the rear axle bearings and oil seals on my Yanmar 1500D. Sitting in flooded rice patties all these years has really rusted up many parts. The problem is the rear wheel axle hub (correct terminology?) that slides onto the splines of the rear axle. I managed to get the first side off with a lot of WD40, hammer whacks, a gear puller and application of heat to the hub. The second side has not moved a bit even after applying all of the previous techniques. Any suggestions out there from the vast universe of experienced and crafty experts.
Removing Rusty Parts
- Thread starter gerlacr
- Start date
- Views: 17864
Hmmm. Sounds like you got a bit of a jam on your hands. From your description, it sounds like the old AMC 20 axle assembly on Jeeps.
I like WD-40 for lots of stuff, but for removing rusted-together stuff, I use <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.gunk.com/autocat3.asp?pic=L112>Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant</A>. I'll admit, sometimes it has taken multiple applications over several days, but it does seem to work a lot of the time.
Not sure what type of gear puller you are using, but there are some pretty heavy-duty ones out there. Perhaps seeing if you could find one with a lower pitch thread (e.g. more pressure exerted) may help.
Last thing I can think of is if you can remove the axle shaft/hub assembly from the axle housing/differential as a unit, you could use a couple of things to remove the hub from the axle shaft. You could use a press (12 or 20 ton - like they sell @ Harbor Freight for $100-200). You could also try using dry ice and to cool the axle shaft. Once it's cooled use the press or gear puller. It's kindof the torch thing in reverse. Course, this works a lot better for putting two tight fitting things together since you don't have any temperature transfer when the items are separate, unlike when they are together, but it's worth a shot.
Course, if the hub is stuck that well on the axleshaft, I'm a little curious why you wish to remove it. /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif (do you need to remove it to get to the bearings?) I'll admit, I don't know anything about Yanmars, just a thought.
Hopefully some of these ideas will help! Good luck!!!
I like WD-40 for lots of stuff, but for removing rusted-together stuff, I use <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.gunk.com/autocat3.asp?pic=L112>Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant</A>. I'll admit, sometimes it has taken multiple applications over several days, but it does seem to work a lot of the time.
Not sure what type of gear puller you are using, but there are some pretty heavy-duty ones out there. Perhaps seeing if you could find one with a lower pitch thread (e.g. more pressure exerted) may help.
Last thing I can think of is if you can remove the axle shaft/hub assembly from the axle housing/differential as a unit, you could use a couple of things to remove the hub from the axle shaft. You could use a press (12 or 20 ton - like they sell @ Harbor Freight for $100-200). You could also try using dry ice and to cool the axle shaft. Once it's cooled use the press or gear puller. It's kindof the torch thing in reverse. Course, this works a lot better for putting two tight fitting things together since you don't have any temperature transfer when the items are separate, unlike when they are together, but it's worth a shot.
Course, if the hub is stuck that well on the axleshaft, I'm a little curious why you wish to remove it. /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif (do you need to remove it to get to the bearings?) I'll admit, I don't know anything about Yanmars, just a thought.
Hopefully some of these ideas will help! Good luck!!!
TBone
Platinum Member
<font color=blue>I like WD-40 for lots of stuff, but for removing rusted-together stuff, I use Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant.</font color=blue>
Like Ranchman, I used to use Liquid Wrench but about two months ago someone on this board was talking about PB Blaster and how good it was. I bought a can and have used it twice on some rusty farm equipment. I tell you, it's the best $2.99 I ever spent. It seems to work quicker and better than Liquid Wrench to me. I bought mine at Auto Zone but I think most of the auto parts houses stock it. GOOD LUCK!
TBone
Like Ranchman, I used to use Liquid Wrench but about two months ago someone on this board was talking about PB Blaster and how good it was. I bought a can and have used it twice on some rusty farm equipment. I tell you, it's the best $2.99 I ever spent. It seems to work quicker and better than Liquid Wrench to me. I bought mine at Auto Zone but I think most of the auto parts houses stock it. GOOD LUCK!
TBone
TBone
Platinum Member
I forgot, they also have a website: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.pbblaster.com>http://www.pbblaster.com</A>.
TBone
TBone
SimS
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2000
- Messages
- 493
- Location
- Rutledge, GA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3710DT, Case 1845C, Takeuchi TB015
TBone is right, PB Blaster works great. Kroil aerosol is a good one also. I have used WD-40 and Liquid Wrench but PB Blaster and Kroil are in another league. Kroil is hard to find in retail stores, but some of the auto parts stores carry PB Blaster. Advanced and NAPA for sure. Good luck.
SimS
SimS
cowboydoc
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2000
- Messages
- 6,725
- Tractor
- JD 8320 MFWD, JD 6415 MFWD, FEL, and cab, John Deere MFWD 4600, John Deere 4020, John Deere 4430, John Deere 455 mower, Deutz, and Gehl 4610 perkins skidsteer
If you have one I use a cutting torch. I don't cut it off but I heat it up and then pull it off.
neilw
Silver Member
Another vote for PB Blaster. The stuff works great.
Tazbota
Member
It's already been said but I want to throw in a good word for PB Blaster !! I WAS a mechanic for 16 years and it's the best I was able to find. 1 tip is to spray it on heavy, give it a couple of hours, give a good tap around the area with a hammer and respray, allow it to soak overnight and I think you'll be shocked at the results. You can buy PB Blaster at Wal-Mart and many other retailers/ parts stores.
ScottAR
Veteran Member
PB is the best stuff I've ever tried. Soaking a 1inch axle nut on our 50s model Case disk for a week finally loosened it when I couldn't budge it with a 6 foot cheater.
I hear Kroil is great too but I can never find any.
I hear Kroil is great too but I can never find any.
RobertN
Super Member
Just for future reference, PBblaster and hammer taps over time will work. If you cruise the antique tractor pages, a lot of folks get tractors with stuck engines and trannies that have sat for years rusting away. They make them into running parade and show tractors.
One of the biggest things is to clean the area the best you can. Then, use some of the PB Blaster(some folks talk about "Kroil"). Then, give it a couple taps with a hammer. Repeat hammer taps daily, and give it an extra squirt now and then.
I remember one guy talking about doing that for a month to remove a stuck piston. He didn't want to force it or break it.
You might read Roger Welch's books about "Busted Tractors and Rusted Knuckeles". They have lots of ancedotes for stuff like this, and is really fun reading to boot!
"Busted Tractors and Rusty Knuckles: Norwegian Torque Wrench Techniques and Other Fine Points of Tractor Restoration", "Old Tractors Never Die: Roger's Guide to the Care and Feeding of Ageless Iron", "Love, *** and Tractors".
One of the biggest things is to clean the area the best you can. Then, use some of the PB Blaster(some folks talk about "Kroil"). Then, give it a couple taps with a hammer. Repeat hammer taps daily, and give it an extra squirt now and then.
I remember one guy talking about doing that for a month to remove a stuck piston. He didn't want to force it or break it.
You might read Roger Welch's books about "Busted Tractors and Rusted Knuckeles". They have lots of ancedotes for stuff like this, and is really fun reading to boot!
"Busted Tractors and Rusty Knuckles: Norwegian Torque Wrench Techniques and Other Fine Points of Tractor Restoration", "Old Tractors Never Die: Roger's Guide to the Care and Feeding of Ageless Iron", "Love, *** and Tractors".
Dozernut
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2002
- Messages
- 1,611
- Location
- South Eastern Illinois
- Tractor
- ZD1211, RTV900, LX2610SU and a SVL65 CTL
I read somewhere that an old mechanic, who rebuilt tractors, used to put rubbing alcohol in the cylinders of stuck engines. He let them sit for three hours and the pistons would come free.
RobertN
Super Member
Coca Cola works well. It is acidic, and will do wonders to loosen a set of rusty rings.
The vapor pressure of alcohol is so low, it would take less than three hours for it to evaporate. But, it's affect on the goo and rust may take a bit. I can see where it would loosen up general goo, but don't think it would help with rust. Could be wrong though /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif
The vapor pressure of alcohol is so low, it would take less than three hours for it to evaporate. But, it's affect on the goo and rust may take a bit. I can see where it would loosen up general goo, but don't think it would help with rust. Could be wrong though /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif
TimSullivan
Silver Member
I have used PB Blaster and have had good success with it. A few years ago I was trying to free the piston in a rear brake caliper on a Porsche 914. I worked at it every night for a week. Spray and tap with a little heat did nothing. An old mechanic friend looked at it and told me to find a sub-zero freezer and to put it in there over night. A restaurant in town had one and it got some laughs but the caliper spent the night on ice.
The next morning I picked it up and put compressed air to it and out popped the piston. The cast of the housing and the metal of the piston contract at different rates in the extreme cold.
The next morning I picked it up and put compressed air to it and out popped the piston. The cast of the housing and the metal of the piston contract at different rates in the extreme cold.
TimSullivan
Silver Member
It was more fun seeing the expressions on the faces of the owner and his wife at the restaurant when I was telling them what I was trying to do. Better yet when they found out that it worked.
JeffRey30747
Gold Member
My local independent hardware stocks Kroil oil. If yours doesn't and you are looking for it you can buy it direct from Kano labs at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.kanolabs.com>http://www.kanolabs.com</A> or dial up Midway USA (shooting supplies) at 1-800-243-3220. Some shooters use it as a bore cleaner.
tractorlet
Silver Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2002
- Messages
- 106
- Tractor
- Use from inventory-varies
We used WD-40 for quite some time until we came across PB Blaster and it has worked well for us. One of our machinists works part time at Carquest auto parts and introduced us to Sea Foam Deep Creep for breaking rust and several other things. Sea Foam has other products for trannies, etc.
We believe Sea Foam's Deep Creep is even better than PB which we have always liked. Give it a try and it may save a few hours and a few taps.
I have no relatives at, nor stock in, this company although I have invested in many cans of Sea Foam.
We believe Sea Foam's Deep Creep is even better than PB which we have always liked. Give it a try and it may save a few hours and a few taps.
I have no relatives at, nor stock in, this company although I have invested in many cans of Sea Foam.
