removing reluctant "head cap" (gland nut?)

joea99 · Jul 18, 2024

Need to find a good relatively cheap tool to help remove a cylinder end cap, with "radial" holes, picture attached. I have tools to remove the ones with holes "on top".

Bought a "gear wrench" set on Amazon, which had a video of a guy wailing away on it. Me? broke the pin off first try. And I am no King Kong. Eh, they do provide 4 or 5 sizes in the set and I needed to use the smallest on. So, guess there is that.

Regardless, I need to reseal these cylinders on a Kubota B21 bucket (TL421). The holes are 5mm max, OD is about 2 to 2.5 inches.

Don't want to take these to a shop, have seals and tools, and have done all the others myself.

rScotty · Jul 18, 2024

I take mine to a shop. He has all the tools.
$100/cylinder for new seals installed.

If you are going to do it yourself, would recommend you make up a collar wrench on your lathe and weld on a long handle. Starting with a large size die stock wrench might save some time if you can find one big enough at the used tool store.

And remember to leave the cylinder end attached to the tractor while you work on the collar end.
For one thing, that holds the cylnder end from rotating, and for another.... it makes for one less thing to reassemble if you decide that a leak is actually not all that hard to live with.
I tied a bandana around mine for years.
Luck
rScotty

dfkrug · Jul 18, 2024

joea99 said:
Need to find a good relatively cheap tool to help remove a cylinder end cap, with "radial" holes, picture attached.

I do all mine myself, and sometimes for others' tractors.

When I encounter one like yours and don't have the proper-sized wrench, I insert a small steel dowel into the hole, and use it to keep the tool I spin it with from slipping. To get a good fit, I have cut old drill bits just long enough to stick out of the hole 1/4-3/16". Messed up holes can also be drilled bigger.

If the gland is already bunged up, I use a pipe wrench. For unscratched glands, I first try a very large channel-lock pliers with a rag to keep it from scratching. You can also use vise-grips that feature a leaf chain. The dowel keeps the tool from spinning on the gland.

BTW, a recent loader cylinder pair I did was for a B8200. Kubota wanted $200 each for the seal kits. I went aftermarket.

joea99 · Jul 18, 2024

rScotty said:
I take mine to a shop. He has all the tools.
$100/cylinder for new seals installed.

If you are going to do it yourself, would recommend you make up a collar wrench on your lathe and weld on a long handle. Starting with a large size die stock wrench might save some time if you can find one big enough at the used tool store.
View attachment 880790 View attachment 880790

And remember to leave the cylinder end attached to the tractor while you work on the collar end.
For one thing, that holds the cylnder end from rotating, and for another.... it makes for one less thing to reassemble if you decide that a leak is actually not all that hard to live with.
I tied a bandana around mine for years.
Luck
rScotty

Closest reputable shop is 60 miles away. With a waiting list. The local shops admit they send them out, which is how I found that shop.

joea99 · Jul 18, 2024

dfkrug said:
I do all mine myself, and sometimes for others' tractors.

When I encounter one like yours and don't have the proper-sized wrench, I insert a small steel dowel into the hole, and use it to keep the tool I spin it with from slipping. To get a good fit, I have cut old drill bits just long enough to stick out of the hole 1/4-3/16". Messed up holes can also be drilled bigger.

If the gland is already bunged up, I use a pipe wrench. For unscratched glands, I first try a very large channel-lock pliers with a rag to keep it from scratching. You can also use vise-grips that feature a leaf chain. The dowel keeps the tool from spinning on the gland.

BTW, a recent loader cylinder pair I did was for a B8200. Kubota wanted $200 each for the seal kits. I went aftermarket.

Idea!

I do have a vise grip "chain" grip around here. Somewhere. And the used drill bit is genie . . genu. . . uh, a pretty slick idea. That leads to all sorts new ways to bust my knuckles and end up on my ass when it lets loose.

Decided to try aftermarket for these. Just about half price. Always been OEM till now.

oldnslo · Jul 19, 2024

I have used an air chisel with drift punch bit to loosen those caps. It might elongate the hole but is far gentler on the knuckles. Stubborn ones may air chisel and strap wrench or pipe wrench to hold some torque while letting the vibration work it loose.

Alan W. · Jul 19, 2024

You need a spanner wrench. Just search ebay or amazon.
I think the set above was $62 on ebay.
Place it on the gland nut and smack the handle with a hammer. Tighten the same way.

joea99 · Jul 19, 2024

Alan W. said:
View attachment 880855

You need a spanner wrench. Just search ebay or amazon.
I think the set above was $62 on ebay.
Place it on the gland nut and smack the handle with a hammer. Tighten the same way.

That looks like the set I tried. Has interchangeable heads, pin and flat like that shown.

However I found the smallest pin, does not correctly fit the three larger tools. The cylinders are 2 and 2.5, so marginal I guess.

dfkrug · Jul 19, 2024

joea99 said:
That looks like the set I tried. Has interchangeable heads, pin and flat like that shown.

However I found the smallest pin, does not correctly fit the three larger tools. The cylinders are 2 and 2.5, so marginal I guess.

Yeah, those spanner wrenches Alan posted are the correct tools, but they don't always work for me. I think I only have 2 sizes, if I can find them.

If I were in the business, I would definitely have a set. But if I can improvise and not have to buy a special tool, I prefer that. It has been years since I had a B21 and a B20. Neither gave me much trouble getting the cylinders apart.

Now the Special Tool to get the rod seal inside the gland: THAT one I bought.

WranglerX · Jul 19, 2024

I like the idea of a semi precision fit pin (cut off drill bit) in hole of gland nut, and would be tempted to use a wrench like below with "jaw" teeth against the pin and try not to scar up gland nut as little as possible, besides it's about the only wrench I have that would possible work other than big pipe wrench.. And the floor jack handle makes really good cheater (4 foot long) ..... Might file "notch" a little deeper to get good bite on "pin".... Plus the wrench may have other uses around the property....