Removing Engine Shaft in Cub 3000 Series

[GTSRider]

I need to replace rear seal in Kohler CH20 because it is leaking bad.
How do I get shaft disconnected from crank, so I can remove flywheel,
and get to seal.
I plan to do this job with engine in tractor frame.
Pete

 

[claridon]

Four bolts to disconnect the shaft from the engine and loosen four bolts underneath the frame to slide the engine forward.

 

[GTSRider]

Thanks Len... that's what I needed to know.... is the job as bad as I am thinking ... or pretty straight forward ?
It seems like you've done it before...
Pete

 

[GTSRider]

Len ...or anyone else.... do you know a way to secure flywheel from turning...other than belt strap tool ?
I guess I could get one at a good price at Harbor Freight...
but I would only use it once.
Flywheel must not turn while torquing down flywheel securing bolt.
Pete

 

[claridon]

Moving the engine forward or even removing it can be done pretty easy. I've never had to remove the flywheel. I was in there to replace one of the ignition modules that sit over the flywheel.
The recommended way to hold the flywheel is with a strap wrench.
here's the service manual: http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/SM_CH18_CH750_1_11.pdf
See pg 9.16
Good luck,

 

[Gator6x4]

I thought you had solved your problem in this post. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/cub-cadet-l-g/220431-kohler-v-twin-head-removal.html
The engine will have to be slid forward and turned ninety degrees to allow for the removal and installation of the rear oil seal. If you have a standard allen wrench set use one of the allen wrenches to remove the four allen head bolts holding the drive shaft to the engine. Be carefull there is a flat metal plate between the end of the driveshaft and the adapter on the flywheel. This is a fun part to install. I coat with grease to hold in place during installation. Turning the engine to align the bolt holes on the flywheel with the driveshaft is a fun part also. The air intake screen on the flywheel will also have to be removed. If you do not have an impact wrench considering renting an electric one to remove and replace the large nut on the flywheel. Use a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel. Beating, prying and jarring on the flywheel can be costly. The stator will also have to be removed from the rear of the engine. The stator is underneath the flywheel. Be carefull with this. You maybe able to rotate the flywheel magnet section away from the ignition modules and remove it without removing the modules. I always remove the modules. All the shrouding removed to replace the head gaskets in your other post will have to be removed again. I always love doing a job a second time and have to force myself to take it slow and carefull the second time.

 

[GTSRider]

Today I installed new head gaskets...and torqued down head.
All of engine is stripped... so I decided to bite the bullet , and tackle that
**** rear seal....now I can see how front seal was a piece of cake...
compared to the rear seal...but it has to be done....
engine was coated with a thick gooy sludge of oil and grass clippings....
nice.... now I also know why PTO shaft was greasy up by engine...
I was hoping to remove seal with just sliding engine forward... but as usual ..more work.... I 'll have to disconect PTO belts...and other front items....
argh....
Thanks to everyone for your tips.... will keep you posted....
Pete

 

[GTSRider]

Oh wow...what a job.... especially when you are doing it outdoors
dodging rain every day !
Got rear seal installed , and reassembling everything now....
grimy clean up was the absolute worst part of this job !
Will post some pics of the sludgy mess... so you all can see.
that at the slightest clue of oil on the flywheel side of engine...
replace seal immediately ! ! !
It gets worse real fast !
Had I known.... I would have replaced seal BEFORE I
even started using mower.

 

[Molerj]

Pressure washing is a must for me before tackling a dirty, greasy engine.