Removal of NX cab top

DieselBound · May 12, 2020

I need to get at my AC/cabin fan controls and wiring as I suspect there is rodent damage. Do I just look to pop off the top shell piece? If so then the front bezel has to be removed? I'd do a quick pull to see but it's been RTV'd (a "gift" from my dealer).

justman777 · May 12, 2020

Had mine off once at the dealers, and all they did was pop the 4 bolts out and lift up on one end or the other. You don't need to take it all the way off though. Just pull the bolts and prop it up on something. Easier to take off if you have help. I don't recall them removing anything other than the top.

finn1 · May 13, 2020

Check for power in the harness at the connections first. On my ck4010 there is a plug below and forward of the left door that had a corroded pin. Remove the plug and check the pins for power.

MinnesotaEric · May 13, 2020

DieselBound said:
I need to get at my AC/cabin fan controls and wiring as I suspect there is rodent damage. Do I just look to pop off the top shell piece? If so then the front bezel has to be removed? I'd do a quick pull to see but it's been RTV'd (a "gift" from my dealer).

The cab top comes off easily (In fact I need to do it again to replace as a tree branch fell on mine damaging it). Take an adjustable wrench and tighten it down on the red knob on the blend-air door and sharply whack the adjustable wrench knocking off the red thingy at the end of the blend-air door knob. Then, as I recall, it is six 12mm or 13mm nuts to be removed (two in front, one on either side, and two in the rear) and the cab top lifts straight off. Use two ladders, one on either side, and have a friend around to help to lift as the cab top is bulky.

Last time my cab top was off was to extract mice. My suggestion while the cab top is off is that you throw in four bags of Fresh Cab to keep the rodents out (link to Amazon if your local Fleet store doesn't carry the product).

countrybumpkin · May 14, 2020

If your working by yourself, remove the nuts on the front and sides, then loosen the two on the back till they are almost off the studs, this will allow you to lift the front off the cab top and support it with a rod , the two nuts left on the rear studs will keep the top from falling.

DieselBound · May 15, 2020

Hi, guys! Thanks for the input.

My quandary is that I don't have access to the front edge area to cut the RTV!

I am planning on running straps (or such) under the roof (when I'm sure that the RTV death grip is gone) and lifting it up from my rafters. With the top suspended I'll drive the tractor out from under it. I need to clean off the RTV from the top, so it needs to be brought down and turned over for that operation: there's also a crack, with some small branch piece piercing it, on one of the back corners- I think I can extract the wood and seal it up OK). Will look to clean the tractor up outside the shop (weather permitting)..

The bezel looks to block access to slicing the RTV on the front edge. That's why I'm thinking I need to remove it. I have thoughts about using my heat gun to loosen the RTV but worry about harming the plastic and fiberglass.

This all reminds me of how much I don't like my dealer.

Did a bunch of research and I think I'm going to go with ZORBX for cleanup and MDX Concepts' mice repellent for maintenance. Will, of course, look to block any holes/gaps to keep mice from getting inside the cab.

DieselBound · May 16, 2020

Clocked in a bit over an hour to get the front cab bezel off. Now I can get at the front seal. Nothing like being up in the air with razor blades!

Eric, did you replace the original foam seal? My dealer RTV'd over the foam and it's all going to have to be removed (tack on a couple hours for this work). I don't ever want to face this amount of work again; also don't want leaks. I've got some butyl caulk that I'm contemplating using.

countrybumpkin · May 16, 2020

I’d clean off both the frame and the top , then buy a good D shape seal from 3M that is adhesive backed on one side. Might upgrade to a little thicker wider one. They also have a B shape that may seal better , I don’t Remember just how wide the sealing surfaces are on the tops , been several years since I had mine off.

DieselBound · May 17, 2020

Country, thanks for the tip! But, I was kind of looking forward to staring the dealer in the face when ordering a seal from them, noting that their "repair" job will, when all is said and done, cost me 5 extra hours of my life.

Only been able to peck away at this an hour or so a day.

RTV and foam. A HUGE mess:

After about 2 1/2 hours of work. Roof lifted. Have yet to clean things up (mouse nest should be obvious):

MinnesotaEric · May 18, 2020

DieselBound said:
Clocked in a bit over an hour to get the front cab bezel off. Now I can get at the front seal. Nothing like being up in the air with razor blades!

Eric, did you replace the original foam seal? My dealer RTV'd over the foam and it's all going to have to be removed (tack on a couple hours for this work). I don't ever want to face this amount of work again; also don't want leaks. I've got some butyl caulk that I'm contemplating using.

I have a rubber seal much like a trunk gasket on mine.

Rigging strapping from rafters would do the job. Just make certain the rigging cannot slip off.