Removable FEL, Storage / Piston Protection?

[MrSteve]

I just removed my Massey 1525 FEL for the 1st time today. I was wondering if I should do something to protect the Chrome on the pistons? I have about 4” on all 4 pistons showing chrome. I do live in Florida so snow isn’t a problem, BUT rain and humidity is. I was thinking to wipe them down and just keep a layer of WD-40 on them, would this be ok to do? If not please let me know what I should use. I really would like to put something on them so they will be protected.

 

[RickB]

Common grease is cheap, provides the needed protection, lasts for months, and doesn't need to be removed prior to use.

 

[RoyJackson]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Common grease is cheap, provides the needed protection, lasts for months, and doesn't need to be removed prior to use. )</font>

That's exactly what my loader manual states...and is what I do.

 

[MrSteve]

Thanks guys (fast replies / help)... Sometimes you need someone to hit you in the head to make you see somethings so easy.

After seeing what you posted Roy, I looked in my book and I don't see anything about protecting the pistons... I could be missing it I guess.

 

[MrSteve]

I should also ask... Is there something I should do to protect the Hydro connectors (mine stay with the loader)?

 

[Farwell]

WD 40 won't stop rust but like the guys say, plenty of grease should do the job. I use car wax to protect my things that have a tendency to rust but not sure how it will work on the cylinder shafts. You could cover your plumbing fittings with freezer baggies and tape or rubber band the bag tightly around the bag opening, this should protect the fittings that stay with the FEL.
Farwell

 

[RickB]

Hang them up out of the dirt. Bags or other well-intentioned effotrs to curb corrosion will usually result in increasing it. leave the male tips exposed. If you have female couplers on the parked loader, get dustplugs for them and leave the rest exposed.

 

[MrSteve]

Thanks again for the replies...

I have females on the tractor with dust caps installed (factory caps with chains to hold them to the connector bracket). I have males on the FEL and they are hanging from the top rail of the FEL, no way to touch dirt. I am sure it goes without saying BEFORE I hook the connectors back up, I will clean them and make sure there isn't any type of damage to them.

 

[skipmarcy]

Steve, this past spring, after being in Florida a year, I had to remove my FEL for the first time - I had to destroy 3 of the 4 female connectors on my valve to get the hoses disconnected!!! Seems they oxidized (rusted) under the sliding sleeves and some of the balls had rusted badly too - externally the connectors looked fine. After spending about $75 for new ones, I used antisieze compound under the sleeves and the balls when I put it back together. I would strongly recommend you get a small jar of it - I use the Permatex aluminum type, they also make a copper type, either one is OK. Pull the sliding collar back and dope it up good and all the balls too while the collar is held back. I also did the male ends, around the groove that the balls catch in, but I was reassembling mine at the time. For storage, some grease would work OK too. The antiseize compound holds up to heat a little better - won't melt off in use as quick as grease would. I do all my lugs with it too, and most any other external bolts or nuts. I agree on the grease for the cylinder rods. Shouldn't have any problem with the pistons as long as you didn't lose fluid from the cylinders - they should be fully immersed in hydraulic oil as is.

 

[MrSteve]

Thanks for the tip! I have copper and silver here, I will make sure I get to that 1st thing in the A.M.

Yes when I am talking about the pistons, it was only the part that's open to the air.

My return line (female on the tractor) is a pain in the butt to get to move, I have to take a piece of wood and set that on a bolt and push the fitting to get it to release (I can't just pull on the hose fitting like I can with the others). "I think" it is because of being a hard line and almost 2x as big as the others and I'm sure it doesn't make it any easier that that line is up high and closest to the frame (hard to get to). Maybe the antisieze will loosen that up some.

 

[skipmarcy]

One more word of caution - besides a stuck disconnect, built-up hydraulic pressure will cause it not to operate too - I found out the hard way !!!! My load checks in my valve leak down from age and it lets the bucket settle - this causes low but risky pressure to build - I got a hydraulic bath once from this, luckily it didn't hit me in the face. You can move your joystick around to relieve most the pressure before disconnecting but I have found that some slight pressure might still remain - be prepared !!

 

[MrSteve]

That is what I thought when I tried to release the line I was having problems with. I move that stick so much to make sure pressure is off, lol I think I will take life from it.