Reloading - how to start?

   / Reloading - how to start? #21  
czechsonofagun said:
I got plenty to do to pickup another hobby, but looks like it makes sense to start reloading my own ammo. I am inclining to get the Lee Anniversary Kit to get started, anybody feels the need to talk me out of it?:D :D

It has been a while since I reloaded but I started with lee anniversary kit, my press is now an rcbs rock chucker, I did not like the lee powder measure it just did not seem consistent. The scale has been replaced with a digital one. I guess if you want to see if this is a hobby you like the purchase would be good. But if you intend on using it for years to come I would buy a different brand.
I started reloading after purchasing a lil 30 cal carbine replica to save on all the rounds put threw it. Casted lead heads there is a definite savings and gives you the ability to try different heads/loads.
 
   / Reloading - how to start? #22  
I'm glad I can report, the Gameking in .308 works very well on Antelope and Deer :D

dmccarty said:
The Game Kings behaved just like the Match Kings at 100 yards. Maybe this year I'll get some time to hunt and see if the Game Kings can take a deer. :D
 
   / Reloading - how to start?
  • Thread Starter
#23  
As always,tons of useful information. I am into smellies (.303 British) and I could live with store purchased ammo, but for my birthday I got Winchester 70 in .270 WSM. Now that's hard to find, last weekend at a Gun Show, nobody had that.

From handguns I will try .38 for now and .357 down the road and I am sure I will be picking toys here and there for years to come. Like this one:

vz.52 (pistol) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

or this one:

vz.24 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
   / Reloading - how to start? #24  
38spl is easy to reload, and a good one to learn on. And, it uses the same die set as .357, so you won't need to buy additional equipment(44spl/44mag uses same die set too).

.270WSM is not far off from .308; it should be a nice round to work up loads for.

I assume you know there is not a magic load for each cartridge, that you will have to experiment with different powder charges and bullets to get the perfect load?

czechsonofagun said:
As always,tons of useful information. I am into smellies (.303 British) and I could live with store purchased ammo, but for my birthday I got Winchester 70 in .270 WSM. Now that's hard to find, last weekend at a Gun Show, nobody had that.

From handguns I will try .38 for now and .357 down the road
 
   / Reloading - how to start?
  • Thread Starter
#25  
RobertN said:
38spl is easy to reload, and a good one to learn on. And, it uses the same die set as .357, so you won't need to buy additional equipment(44spl/44mag uses same die set too).

.270WSM is not far off from .308; it should be a nice round to work up loads for.

I assume you know there is not a magic load for each cartridge, that you will have to experiment with different powder charges and bullets to get the perfect load?

Yes, I was expecting that, it comes from the logic of the system with many parameters.
 
   / Reloading - how to start? #26  
I figured you were did :D but mentioned it just in case.

czechsonofagun said:
Yes, I was expecting that, it comes from the logic of the system with many parameters.
 
   / Reloading - how to start? #27  
At least that vz is a bottleneck pistol cartridge...should be a little bit easier to load than a straight case. Straight case auto pistol cartridges can get a little finicky about case length and crimp because they headspace on the case mouth and length and crimp affect that.

I will toss out my .38 SPL load if you're interested: 5 gr of Unique under a 158 gr cast semiwadcutter, standard primer. It's a good place to start.

I have always been partial to lead bullets. For one reason, it is almost impossible to wear out a barrel with them. Second, I liked to cast them. It may sound like drudgery to some people but I actually liked it. I could cast for hours once the molds were up to temp and casting good bullets. Of course, I always used wheel weights and I don't even know what wheel weights are made of now. Probably not lead.

Reloading and revolvers are a very good match. A revolver will digest just about anything you can cram in the cylinder wherease automatics are somewhat particular about their ammo. When you're empty, just open the revolver, and there are all your empty cases. With the auto, they're all over the place.
 
   / Reloading - how to start? #28  
Also, if you can, get with an experienced reloader. That way you'll profit from his mistakes and not have to make them yourself. You'll make plenty of your own, but any you can avoid is just that much better for you.

I'll tell about my worst mistake, very early in my reloading days.

A friend's brother wanted some .270 Winchester shells for his Remington pump rifle. The friend, getting set up for the .270, accidentally dumped some IMR4895 into an almost new can of H4831.

What to do? We didn't want to throw away the H4831, so we decided to use it but use the lowest load for IMR 4895 listed for the .270. Seemed a conservative way to go.

The very first shot blew the dust cover off the bolt and welded the action shut. When he looked up and asked us, "Just what the --ll was that??" we both just shrugged and looked down at the ground and toed whatever little blob of weeds happened to be at the ends of our boots. We then had a thorough understanding of why they say not to mix powders.

It had to go back to the factory to get fixed.

Second worst was a .44 Mag that got a double load of WW231 in a Dillon 550 (don't ask me how). Luckily it was supposed to have been a light load, but it was anything but light. I'm glad it was in a Redhawk. It took a hammer and 3/8" rod to pound that case out of the cylinder. When I loaded ammo in a single stage, I always liked to look down in the cases while they were still in the loading block to make sure each one had the same amount of powder. Can't really do that in a progressive.

Have fun, but be careful and safe. Learn from others mistakes.
 
   / Reloading - how to start? #29  
I started about a year ago with a "Lee Loader" kit. It worked just well enough to wet my interest. I then got a Lee handpress and set of dies for 38/357. Good way to start, I think. Straight walled cartridges are easy to reload, and since I was reloading to 38 standards for use in a Ruger .357 revolver, an accidental overcharge was not likely to be noticeable, much less catastrophic. IMHO this and the .44 Special/Magnum are the only two combinations where this could be said. I am planning to get a turret press and dies for .45 and .223 sometime this coming winter when I have more free time. I want to get my skill up before I start reloading for autos operating at pressure levels where a mistake could damage the gun or worse. (Not sure what guns you own but Rugers in general, and their revolvers in particular, are notoriously strong and overbuilt.)

I have found the Lee equipment to be well made and simple to use. I would highly recommend starting with the combo kit of the Lee Reloading Guide and the basic Lee press, which sells as a combo for about the same price as either one separately. It is a very basic press that you will not want to use by itself for long, but after you get the basics with it you can pick what you want as your main press (probably a progressive or turret press) and you will probably still find uses for the basic press.

With ammo prices what they are I don't think I'll be shooting large amounts of anything but .22 LR for a while.
 
   / Reloading - how to start? #30  
I started reloading for my .223 last year, and I bought the Lee aniversary kit. I'm no expert, but I found it to be well made, and to work extremly well. The price didn't hurt either. You will probably grow out of it, but to get started, I don't think it would be a bad choice at all.

(And no, .223 is nowhere near as cheap in Australia as it is in US, thats why I reload.)

Cran
 

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