Refurbishing a Ford 850

   / Refurbishing a Ford 850 #1  

AA7TU

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2017
Messages
28
Location
Clallam Bay, WA
Tractor
Ford 850
Here is a shot of my new project. It came with an old JD 127 mower deck, a 3ph road grader blade, and a 3ph log boom, all serviceable. I paid $2500 for the lot, which is about as good as I have found in this area. I didn't have to pay for trucking something else from farther away.

I will be going over this tractor in the winter months, ready to make use of it next year. I am not sure how many hours it has, as the tach is not working. But the engine seems strong, good oil pressure, not overheating, no smoke in the exhaust, instant start. There seemed to be some level of care taken to keep it running, but only the minimum. Today I used it to move some gravel around on the driveway, and the loader seems to be strong enough. Mainly it just needs some small repairs, TLC, cleaning and painting. I prefer a clean machine.

Here is a list of what I am planning, and I would appreciate any advice on how to best proceed:

1. Change all the fluids. From my reading it looks like I will use UTF for everything, and some generic motor oil. I won't use it in winter (too wet here), and maybe 20-30 hours total a year. Mowing a field once or twice a year, road maintenance, log pulling, blackberry clearing.

2. How to drain the loader oil? I have not seen this style, where the tubes of the framework are also the reservoir. Possibly replace the seals on the rams, if I can find the parts. For now there is only small leakage at the dust seals, and not much sag in use. Some of the hoses appear to be original, which is amazing.

3. How best to drain the rear tires? They are filled with sodium chloride. I might have to replace a rusty rim. The local tire company will do the work, but I have to get it there.

4. It needs a new exhaust. It had an underneath pipe, but I suspect it got ripped off in the brush, and might have the same thing happen again if I push into the blackberries. I would use a vertical pipe, but have to make sure it doesn't interfere with the loader.

5. The engine needs basic tune up. New tachometer. I might convert to 12V system, but the 6V certainly works well enough. Given my low projected number of hours, it might not be worthwhile. It starts instantly, but man it sucks the fuel while running. Maybe that is normal. My previous tractor time was on a smaller nimble Kubota with 4wd and hydrostatic. In comparison, on this thing I feel like Fred Flintstone running a brontosaurus.

6. Replace PTO oil seal, which drips a bit.

7. General de-greasing and de-rusting. Anyone have particularly worthwhile products for that now? I haven't done a project of this size before. I suspect lots of frozen bolts to remove.

8. I'll need some rear weight for loader use, I can tell already. I am sure I can find something suitable in someone's junk pile.

Thanks for any input. I'm sure I will have more questions as the project progresses.
 

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   / Refurbishing a Ford 850 #2  
the loader frames that are the hyd resevoir usually have a pipe plug drain, or in some instances large bung drain with strainer.

For those hyds, you can use cheap utf or cheap aw 32/46 oil. for the tractor, stick with utf.

for the engine, I'd go with 15w40 or 10w30 synthetic. store brand is fine for either.

for degreasing, I like greased lightning, or simple green.

for rear weight, and old plastic tub or 55g drum cut down, with some metal sticking out to hitch to, and fill her with concrete. good cheap weight.
 
   / Refurbishing a Ford 850
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Dismantling continues here, and so far so good.

I have been searching for any info on rebuilding the cylinder seals in this Superior Utility Loader (it says model K-118), but am not finding anything specific. Perhaps some other manufacturer's more generic kit is close enough? Surely someone has done this before. Any advice appreciated.

Thanks.
 
   / Refurbishing a Ford 850 #4  
in many cases you can just match the packing ID/OD etc.

I had plenty of vintage cyl's resealed at my local hyds shop.. they always used common off the shelf packing and orings.
 
   / Refurbishing a Ford 850
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Here is a photo of the seals from the Superior lift cylinder ends, mentioned in the above posts. I have taken the snap ring out. There is one rubber type oil seal, and a stack of 4 fiber (?) washers below it. Does anyone have a good technique to remove that oil seal? No access from the other side to force them out. It looks like some sort of destructive process is needed, but I don't want to ding things up if possible.

SuperiorCylinderSeals.jpg
 
   / Refurbishing a Ford 850 #6  
Here is a photo of the seals from the Superior lift cylinder ends, mentioned in the above posts. I have taken the snap ring out. There is one rubber type oil seal, and a stack of 4 fiber (?) washers below it. Does anyone have a good technique to remove that oil seal? No access from the other side to force them out. It looks like some sort of destructive process is needed, but I don't want to ding things up if possible.

View attachment 529601

You will need to destroy the old seal, but with care, it should be readily removable.
 
   / Refurbishing a Ford 850
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I got it all apart with less trouble than expected. I have seen a few posts from time to time from others rebuilding these FEL asking about replacements. Now that I have the parts to measure, for the Superior K-118, I think that these rings will do the job.

Hydraulic cylinder repair seals and kits-Hercules Sealing Products - Hydraulic Seals and replacement cylinders for construction and many other heavy equipment industries.

Have not found the oil wiper part yet, as it is unusual with a beveled edge and a lip.
 
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   / Refurbishing a Ford 850 #9  
You will need to destroy the old seal, but with care, it should be readily removable.

yup.. hooked seal snatcher usually does it.
 
   / Refurbishing a Ford 850
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Not being familiar with oil seals, I am not coming across anything in my searches that has this particular shape. Maybe someone more experienced has some cross reference ideas. No numbers or any marks on the seal. Shaft is 1.75", Lip O.D. is 2.375", tapers to 2.25", height is just shy of .375" (no calipers).
oil_seal_edge.jpgoil_seal_face.jpg
 

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