Recycled asphalt

[Oiltech]

Has anyone used this for a driveway? Did you de-grass or prepare the surface prior to laying the asphalt?

 

[Soundguy]

i've used it as stabilizer or as top course over other stabilized subgrade. if you just dump it out over grass.. grass WILL make it up thru it..

 

[Jim Nelson]

I've used it on a driveway that is on a pretty fair grade that was really eroded when I started. I ripped it all up with the box blade,wet it down good and ripped it more to blend the moisture in then once the moisture was what I liked I filled all the ruts and wheel rolled them good then graded it to drain and rolled it with a rented 5 ton vibratory roller.Once the sub grade was good and tight and the grade was what I wanted I placed the asphalt grindings in about a 3" lift,watered it down good and rolled it in good with the 5 ton. It has held up for 4 years so far but there are some weeds and grass making their way through it which I spray. One thing I was amazed at was within a month of putting it down a mole made his meandering way across it through the asphalt layer.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Plants will grow up through even hot laid asphalt. The right but expensive way: Remove all vegetation even the roots. I have had to excavate as much as 12" to get below the organic layer. Build up with gravel compacted then the recycled asphalt. On each layer of the subgrade liberally sow with "Casaron" to prevent seed germination. Plants growing up through any base material will destroy the compaction and provide a place for pot holes to start.

It is the old "pay me now or pay me later" situation. Yes I have to go the cheaper route also but then take the consequences later.

 

[Soundguy]

just remember to be carefull with casaron... it IS slightly toxic to humans..

 

[bigtiller]

I have 2 friends that used this stuff. They both cussed it for a year and finally covered it with a top coat of hot laid asphalt.

 

[Soundguy]

it's all about application. If they cussed it.. they chose the wron material and method for their intended use...

 

[bigtiller]

They didn't like the loose flakes on top. Moving snow was just like doing it on a gravel driveway is all I remember them talking about now.

 

[paulharvey]

With asphalt millings/RAP what the original source was maters. If they still have some AC(asphalt cement) content then they bind very well. If they are from a 40 year old road, full depth milled, then they really aren't likely to have a good AC content. Some millings have chunks that tear out, maybe 6" long X whatever the depth of mill is (1-3"); others are a nice gravel like texture.

We don't plow snow where I am so I can't comment about that part. But for drive ways you basically have a couple options

Concrete=$50/Sq yard and lasts well if done right

6" limerock=$4.50/Sq yard ($2.50 in rock ($6-$7.50/Ton), plus at least another $2 in trucking) washes badly if water has any speed to it

6" Millings/RAP=$5.50-$10/Sq yard (prices of millings range from $10/Ton to $20/ton around here) doesn't wash much, isn't dusty unless you really haul butt down it

6" rock and 1.5" Asphalt=$12.50-$25/Sq yard; asphalt isn't that expensive, it's just that there isn't any good small outfits (broad brush I know) and mobilization is at a bare minimum $500-$1500.

For any of these you should strip the grass. Generally if you are doing 6" of millings, you would cut out 6" of material so the rock or millings is "boxed". If you dump millings on grass, two problems: 1 grass grows through; 2 you have millings on the side that aren't contained where they belong.

 

[Soundguy]

They didn't like the loose flakes on top. Moving snow was just like doing it on a gravel driveway is all I remember them talking about now.

yup.. wrong application..