Rebuilding the front of Root Cellar would like some opionions.

[rickyb01]

I am in the process of running 220 to this root cellar or what I call boat house because I keep my boat in it. It is a concrete structure built into the side of a hill. The only part that is not concrete is the front. The bottom and two sides and back and roof are all poured concrete. The previous owner didn't use treated and the boards have been eaten up by termites. The front measures 20' wide by 7' tall. I have some cypress 2x's that I picked up years ago from a friend that has a small mill. These boards are a full 2" thick and I have 2x4's and 2x6's. This is a project that I will have to complete this spring and I'm thinking of using the cypress for the framing. I think I will run the 2x4 cypress next to the concrete and attach it to the concrete with tapcon screws. I then can add another 2x4 to the top and sides and have like a double plate to nail my studs to. I will have a 3' metal door and a 10' open double barn door. Each door will be 5' wide even though the barn doors aren't my first choice I think they will give me the most room. Remember I only have 7' on the height and a roll up door is only going to take away from that. I will then add cypress board and batten or brick the front.

This building will get about 2' of water in it about every four years. I live right on the bank of the Arkansas River and when that river gets high enough we will get some flood water. The water has no current and after it goes down it does leave a lot of sand behind. With that said would you guys use the cypress or go treated pine all the way?

Another question

One of the reason's I was thinking about bricking the front was to try and keep water out of the building. I think I can stretch a heavy membrane over the 20' opening and sandbag two feet up the front of the building and keep at least the sand out. This may or may not be a good idea because I have no idea how much force will be behind two feet of water but I bet it's a lot. So I may be better off just opening it up and allowing the water to come in .

 

[tcreeley]

Sounds interesting - re the interior flooding where the wood will contact the floor - put a spacer in under the wood to reduce drying time after the water has receded by increasing airflow? Staggered bricks, concrete block?

Good luck. I've never used cypress. PT would last but cypress sounds more interesting!

 

[EddieWalker]

Treated pine will still rot eventually, but cypress will rot a lot sooner. I'd use treated wood.

 

[/pine]

Bald cypress is unique in certain applications...I am familiar with some beach cottages that are close to 100 years old that have live edge cypress siding that has never been painted and the wood is as solid as the day it was applied...but if allowed to contact the ground etc. it is susceptible to both rot and termites...

 

[rickyb01]

Thanks guys that is what I was looking for. It seems to me there will be advantage to using my cypress over treated pine so I will use the cca pine.

 

[TnAndy]

Try to find in ground rated treated pine if you can....it has the most treatment per volume....followed by ground contact, and non ground contact.

 

[Streetcar]

Holding back water will have loading of 20 lb per foot of depth for each foot of width

 

[s219]

Might want to look for marine lumber -- generally a true 2" thick, and various widths and lengths. I got some 2x10" 12' long boards for pier framing and boat lift bunks. It has a better treatment process than regular treated lumber or ground contact lumber and is made to get wet and dry out, repeatedly.

They do make a marine lumber for bulkheads that is 2" thick with tongue and groove on the edges. That would be good too.

 

[rickyb01]

Holding back water will have loading of 20 lb per foot of depth for each foot of width

Per my neighbors the water has gotten 2' high in the building. So do I understand it correctly when calculate 40lb total times 20' which equals 800lbs. That may be doable to at least try. RIck