Rebuild or Replace?

[Indygunworks]

This cylinder is probably over 30 years old. Who knows if it has ever been serviced or not. Its the only cylinder that's leaking, but it leaks ALOT. I could probably fill a shot glass in less than 8 minutes w/ how much it leaks. whats my cheapest and or best option here? rebuild repack or replace?

 

[hosspuller]

Depends on your use. The pits & nicks on the rod will work on the seals. If low usage, it might last years. Work it 8 hours a day, expect a couple of months. 3 Point backhoe not likely to get a lot of use... Polish the shaft & Repack it.

 

[Indygunworks]

Will be a very low use item... high use for a few months while I build, and after that it will become a toy.

Any links to where I can teach myself how to repack? where do you recommend I buy the parts? Is this something I should attempt?

 

[hosspuller]

I was better served taking the cylinder off and taking it to a hydraulic shop. They had the proper tools needed to open it without damage... and the kits to repack it. You would be too.

Edit to add ... They will be able to help you decide to repack or replace.

 

[doxford jim]

Take the cylinder off and check and see what you can buy for a replacement. Some cylinders are surprisingly cheap and can be less in cost than repairs. Your call of course, but if it were me I would remove cylinder and visit a hydraulic shop or two and see what they have to say.

 

[jaotguy]

price a good new one ... a cheap new replacement (tie rod style) ... and bring it down to a shop and get a quote on rebuilding ..

even the cheapies should last a long time ...

then consider how much fluid you may go through doing the heavy work and weigh the pro's and con's ... dollar wise and other ...

 

[EddieWalker]

Depends on if you can find the parts to rebuild it. I have a guy here in Tyler that rebuilds hydraulic cylinders for all the dealers and anybody who walks in the door. He has a very good source for everything he needs, but has said that there are some out there that you just can't find the parts for anymore. My dealer wants a couple hundred dollars for the rebuild kit if I have the newer, updated piston. That's another couple hundred bucks depending on the size of the piston I need. The specialty guy will sell me just what I need from $20 to $50 or do the rebuild for me once I bring the cylinder into his shop for $100 plus parts.

Eddie

 

[Indygunworks]

Well I decided to at least try to tackle rebuilding... so far so good. Any idea what I need to measure to order new seals? what type of seals? I am using travelers universal hydraulic fluid if it matters. Here are a few photos... the bore is 2.5 and the rod is 1.5 I have no idea how to piece together a rebuild kit for this cylinder. Any advice you can give as to how to measure, what type of seal ect ect would be greatly helpful.











and the bore looked pretty good also

 

[J_J]

If you go to some of the seals websites, they tell you how and what to measure.

You will need a good set of calipers, or take it to a hyd shop and let them measure.

You need to know cyl diameter, piston diameter, groove width, and depth, for each o-ring,etc.

http://www.jameswalker.biz/cn/pdf_docs/108-hydraulic-sealing-guide

http://www.transeals.com.au/catalogues/files/Transeals_Identifying_Hydraulic_Seals.pdf

 

[jaotguy]

thanks for the info ....

 

[Indygunworks]

Turns out I only live 4 miles from MSP seals... took my stuff in there and got fitted w/ new seals right away. Got two rebuilt, and 4 more pulled off and cleaned up ready for seals... Ill go in tomorrow to get fitted for seals for the remaining 3 that are not like the others. Here is a photo of what the old seals I pulled off look like.

 

[Dave M7040]

The nut you have the pipe wrench on is an important once to always remove if the cylinder is creeping but not leaking externally The seal, accessed inside the piston once you remove the nut, although just a simple O ring, was always the one to fail on my equipment. There was no external leak. The oil was just bypassing the piston going between the piston and the main push rod. In the beginning, when the problem would first appear, I was changing the seals on the outside of the piston which were a bit expensive and did not realize there was an inexpensive seal inside the piston. Once I removed the piston I would find the O ring broken. I would take care in torquing the nut and even staking it but the O ring would still manage to fail.
Dave M7040

 

[Indygunworks]

I have been greasing the **** out of that little O ring, and reinstalling the piston w/ a twisting motion being sure not to put that little O ring in bind. None of the O rings pulled off the end of the piston shaft have been damaged yet though. the rod seals and outer bladder seals have been mostly pieces though... I am surprised she was even holding pressure at all given the condition of these seals.... Its fun to rebuild, and sure as **** beats the 500 per cylinder I was being quoted.

Some of the shafts have some minor pitting from rust, and a fine gouges that I stoned the high spots down, so I doubt I will ever eliminate 100 percent of the leaks, but I bet I see one **** of an improvement from the 12 inch pressurized streams that were coming out of some of the cylinders. I will probably get rid of the "drifting" I have been noticing as well.