Ballast Rear Weights

   / Rear Weights #11  
Different make tractor/loader combinations need more or less on the rear depending on overall balance. The solution is the least weight to do the job effectively. To over weight a tractor it will become slugish to operate and of coarse burn more fuel and wear out the tractor chassis sooner.
On most all tractor loader combo's I like to see three sets of weights which adds five hundred lbs per side on most compacts in the thirty horse and largerchassis sizes. For the believe it or not column the liquid filled tires give you a little more weight but with less traction because it slows down the tires ability to flex to the ground for a better grip. To compare you
There are times the chore might be hard pulling just add some weight to the three point hitch like a box blade.
If you have a TLB you should not need to add the rear weight like on a Tractor/Loader unit as you can just leave the backhoe on. When using the tractor to not be able to spin the tires when in low range I'd say you are to heavy.
Just think, you pay once for the wheel weights, gain more tire life, and daily as fuel costs are lower, and the tractor lasts longer! Not to think that you might have a flat with the liquid and you have to buy it agian!!!!!!!
 
   / Rear Weights #12  
My multipurpose rear attachment tool is a hay fork with welded support for gooseneck trailer ball, weights permanently attached to the hay fork, a carryall platform on the hay fork to which I can add additonal weights. In my case, I obtained some old elevator weights, 80 to 100 lbs each, at a metal recycling place. These are handy to move around to various implements as weight needs change.
HAY_FORK_WEIGHTS_BALL_WEIGHTS_2_1091.JPG
 
   / Rear Weights #13  
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Well I have a B7800 and I use a 55 gallon drum with about 800 pounds of cement in it works perfect. I didn't want to fill the tires because I like a soft foot at times and want to be able to control my wt. I did a thread on this if you like I'll send you the link. It is in projects, can't be too deep I just bumped it a few weeks ago for another member

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   / Rear Weights #14  
I got this ballast box with my B7800 and put these retaining wall blocks in it .Holds 19 of them easily and they weigh 25 pounds each. Could fit a few more in if you stood the top row on edge.When I take it off, I set it on a wheel dollie (made for car hobbiests) and wheel it into a corner and out of the way.
 

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   / Rear Weights #15  
ThisldooFarm said:
I have a B7800 with FEL. I do not have tires loaded on advice of dealer. What is out there for rear weighting for FEL balance? Weight boxes? How much weight? Does anyone have plans for the farmer's concrete filled barrel? Any ideas. I would like to use the 3 point hitch, and have it easily removable when not needed. Thanks


Might I enquire as to why the dealer advised against filling the tires? It is after all, what kubota recommends you do when using a FEL. It provides the highest weight, lowest center of gravity, best traction (with ZERO steering loss) and the lowest cost.

Any of the non-corrosive tire fills is adequate for most uses, but often with a FEL you will still need more weight.

jb
 
   / Rear Weights #16  
I have a Kubota M4800 with a Bushhog M346 loader. I filled the rear tires and have a weight made from a 55 gallon drum and concrete. If you use heavy weight and are on rough terrain I would suggest that you raise the weight and install your drawbar and then rest the weight partially on the drawbar. I was using my tractor in the woods on rough ground and stripped the threads on the right adjustable lift arm, because I wasn't supporting the weight of the drum. I now install my drawbar under the drum of concrete.

I don't understand why the dealer said to not fill the tires. Every tractor we have ever owned from the 1969 Ford 3000 with loader to the 1984 Ford 3610 used to pull plows have had loaded tires. We've never had a problem other than the $100.00 to $150.00 cost of repairing a flat. And taking the wheel/tire combo on and off the tractor to get it repaired.

With my tractor and a 6 foot heavy duty bucket full of dirt the back end can get light when loading a dump truck etc... Even though I have about 1500-1800 lbs of counterweight. Remember that 50 gallons of water in a tire weighs about 425 pounds. Multiply that by 2 and add 700-800 pounds of concrete in a barrel and I almost have enough counterweight.

Chris
 
   / Rear Weights #17  
An ld tub, a drawbar, some scrap metal and bags of concrete and a few nuts and bolts and you can put 400-800# on the back of your tractor way cheap.

My loader tractors have concrete chunks on back.. cost about 15-20$ each..

Soundguy
 
   / Rear Weights #18  
Firefighter,
Do you think it was the fault of the weight, or how you were driving it? It shocks me that 1000 lbs stripped your arm. Isn't that weight within the limits for your tractor?
Now, if you tell me you were really bouncing hard over large bumps, then that could be abuse.
Just curious.
Thanks.
 
   / Rear Weights #19  
Ford850,

I think the weight of the concrete and the combination of driving over rocks (we have a lot of rocks) caused the arm to strip. My grandfather used his Ford 3000 to snake logs and he would replace the adjustable lift arm of that tractor at least once a year.

I now support the barrel of concrete with the drawbar and have had no problems.

Chris
 
   / Rear Weights #20  
That makes sense. Sounds like a rough ride.
Thanks.
 

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