rear tire flat--advice needed

[Soundguy]

7.5-16 sounds like a FRONT tire for a 70hp tractor. IE.. that's what my ford 5000 has on its front.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

For a relatively small investment, anyone can assemble the tools needed to pump fluid in/out of tractor tires. It's well worth the trouble. One flat where you don't loose all the fluid will pay for the pump, ect. There's nothing like the convenience of being able to pull the tractor in the shop (garage?) pump the tire down, SAVING ALL the fluid.

I bought a small "chemical pump" from WW GRAINGER. The volute is stainless steel and the impellor is rubber. 110V with standard garden hose hook-ups. Two 15' long 1/2" garden hoses. A couple 55 gallon plastic barrels. (I do a few bigger tires now and then) And the NAPA valve stem adapter. I even bought a plastic tool box that holds all the "kit" I assembled. Total investment is around $100. A typical 13.6X28 tire takes about 15 minutes to pump down and MAYBE 20 to fill.

A "BEAD-CHEATA" bead breaker, 4 tire irons, a tire hammer, and a few spare tubes/patch kit, and there's my ability to fix my own tires when I need it, NOT at the convenience of a repair man or tire vendor.

Most recent "experience", I noticed fluid shooting out of a nail hole in a tractor tire. Pulled 'er in the shop, jacked the tractor up, pumped fluid out, broke bead, pulled tube, patched tube, re-installed, aired up, let air out, pumped fluid back in, inflated to proper pressure, and was back to working again in just over 1 hour. If you value time, or depend on having equipment that'll be ready to go without downtime, having your own tire repair tools is a BARGAIN.

 

[Soundguy]

A "BEAD-CHEATA" bead breaker, 4 tire irons, a tire hammer, and a few spare tubes/patch kit, and there's my ability to fix my own tires when I need it, NOT at the convenience of a repair man or tire vendor.

Ditto that 100%... Owning a few tire irons and tire-sledge and the pach and spares kit. has saved me numerous trips to town when I hit a nail or sharp stick or bone. Happened this past weekend, fixing it was faster than the trip to town! cheaper too!

soundguy

 

[HCJtractor]

For a relatively small investment, anyone can assemble the tools needed to pump fluid in/out of tractor tires. It's well worth the trouble. One flat where you don't loose all the fluid will pay for the pump, ect. There's nothing like the convenience of being able to pull the tractor in the shop (garage?) pump the tire down, SAVING ALL the fluid.

I bought a small "chemical pump" from WW GRAINGER. The volute is stainless steel and the impellor is rubber. 110V with standard garden hose hook-ups. Two 15' long 1/2" garden hoses. A couple 55 gallon plastic barrels. (I do a few bigger tires now and then) And the NAPA valve stem adapter. I even bought a plastic tool box that holds all the "kit" I assembled. Total investment is around $100. A typical 13.6X28 tire takes about 15 minutes to pump down and MAYBE 20 to fill.

A "BEAD-CHEATA" bead breaker, 4 tire irons, a tire hammer, and a few spare tubes/patch kit, and there's my ability to fix my own tires when I need it, NOT at the convenience of a repair man or tire vendor.

Most recent "experience", I noticed fluid shooting out of a nail hole in a tractor tire. Pulled 'er in the shop, jacked the tractor up, pumped fluid out, broke bead, pulled tube, patched tube, re-installed, aired up, let air out, pumped fluid back in, inflated to proper pressure, and was back to working again in just over 1 hour. If you value time, or depend on having equipment that'll be ready to go without downtime, having your own tire repair tools is a BARGAIN.

I agree that it is better to learn these repairs! What is a bead-cheata and where do you get this? I saw a bead breaker on Gemplers site but it was over $500. Is breaking the bead on a tubed tire that difficult? On a rear tire (such as a 16.9-30) that I have, do you replace the tube while the wheel is still mounted? Of course, after jacking it up and securing with a stand. Is resetting the bead a problem? I would assume with a tube, it seats easily. I just bought the valve adapter to refill the tires with fluid.

I always hear of the dangers of installing tires. I would think if one does not overinflate, it should not be dangerous. Am I wrong here? Of course when a tire this big is removed, the sheer weight makes it dangerous. I would rather replace the tube while the wheel is still on the tractor.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I agree that it is better to learn these repairs! What is a bead-cheata and where do you get this? I saw a bead breaker on Gemplers site but it was over $500. Is breaking the bead on a tubed tire that difficult? On a rear tire (such as a 16.9-30) that I have, do you replace the tube while the wheel is still mounted? Of course, after jacking it up and securing with a stand. Is resetting the bead a problem? I would assume with a tube, it seats easily. I just bought the valve adapter to refill the tires with fluid.

I always hear of the dangers of installing tires. I would think if one does not overinflate, it should not be dangerous. Am I wrong here? Of course when a tire this big is removed, the sheer weight makes it dangerous. I would rather replace the tube while the wheel is still on the tractor.

Bead Cheata. Well worth the cost.
5500 Bead-Cheata [Shoup Manufacturing Company]

It's handy when you start the tire back ON the rim too. Get the bead started and use the Bead Cheata to hold it there. I wrote it off as a gimmick until I used one. I bought my own the very next day.

I don't take the rim/wheel off the tractor while doing a tube repair. No sense in it. Too much time, too much work, too much lifting that way.

Use common sense, take your time, be carefull.... Use a GOOD jack.

Tire repair can be dangerous for some. Sharpening a pencil is dangerous for some....

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Ditto that 100%... Owning a few tire irons and tire-sledge and the pach and spares kit. has saved me numerous trips to town when I hit a nail or sharp stick or bone. Happened this past weekend, fixing it was faster than the trip to town! cheaper too!

soundguy

The first year after I bought my farm, I was clearing ground still, and I got more'n my share of flats. I kept track of time spent and MONEY spent with hauling tires/wheels to a shop or having them come to me. That was 1971. The numbers were staggering back then. I'm sure they'd be absolutely nuts now days. And the inconvenience of having to meet someone elses schedule to get something back on line. It would be nice to pay someone to do ALL my tire work, but then I'd need ANOTHER job to pay that bill....

And there's nothing better to take your aggressions out on than a big ol' heavy tire.

 

[AKfish]

They say that we're a "product of our environment". I'd guess that holds true in my case..

Growin' up in the Dakota's it was a long ways back to the shop and I was always told to never drive on a leakin' tire but "shut 'er down" right there (or at the end of the field) and get help.

We usually had a truck come out to the field and fix 'em right there. They were always filled with CaCL and nobody wanted a "catastrophic failure" with that stuff all over in the ground...

Glad to hear you got everything taken care of.

AKfish

 

[Conservation]

Is it safe to say that the fluid in the tire that is lower than the level of the stem is going to be on the floor? If it is tubed, I guess you could leave that fluid in and patch carefully. There is no doubt in my mind that I will be fixing my own tires first. I started wtih a plug kit, and now there is no stopping me!

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. hard to get ALL the fluid out.. depending onthe tire or the tube you can get *most* out if you use a syphon straw.. but in general.. there will be some spillage.

be sure to wash all metal parts down hit with cacl ballast.. also good to clean up and paint insides of the rims if you use cacl ballast. less metal contact the better..

soundguy