That is exactly what I plan to do. As far as deadheading the pump is concerned, my experience is that when you do that the tractor lugs down immediately, and you instantly know you've done it wrong. Also, I don't plan to jam the A-B valve into the detente position, so the pressure rise won't happen quite so quickly.
Backhoe Rear Hydraulics or Power Beyond Tap for Woods Backhoe on CT230
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That is exactly what I plan to do. As far as deadheading the pump is concerned, my experience is that when you do that the tractor lugs down immediately, and you instantly know you've done it wrong. Also, I don't plan to jam the A-B valve into the detente position, so the pressure rise won't happen quite so quickly.
Well, I'm STILL waiting for the hydraulic kit from Woods... for some reason they forgot to send it with the backhoe, so I get to wait (impatiently) for it to arrive at my dealer.
It's not exactly clear just what I'll receive in the hydraulic kit, but I've accepted the fact that some of it will be of little use if I use the rear hydraulic fittings. In addition, I'm a bit concerned about the quick-connections that I'll attach to the tractor rear hydraulics. Does anybody know just what type quick-connectors are to be found at the Bobcat rear hydraulic connections? I haven't found anything in my tractor owners manual that specifies this, and I'm going to be unhappy if I have to buy a new set of hoses just because Woods supplied the wrong ends. I suppose that I could just send the kit back and have a local supplier make up the hoses and provide any necessary fittings.
It's not exactly clear just what I'll receive in the hydraulic kit, but I've accepted the fact that some of it will be of little use if I use the rear hydraulic fittings. In addition, I'm a bit concerned about the quick-connections that I'll attach to the tractor rear hydraulics. Does anybody know just what type quick-connectors are to be found at the Bobcat rear hydraulic connections? I haven't found anything in my tractor owners manual that specifies this, and I'm going to be unhappy if I have to buy a new set of hoses just because Woods supplied the wrong ends. I suppose that I could just send the kit back and have a local supplier make up the hoses and provide any necessary fittings.
tman1020
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Good glad you got it figured out sucks waiting though doesn't it. Sounds like you'll be using it very soon though.
I'm hoping to get it all finished this coming week. There's a window of sunny weather coming, which will make the shakedown operation a bit more pleasant than working in the rain.
Unfortunately, the big project I have will need to wait until things dry out considerably. I have about 700 ft of 2" water line to replace, and much of the route is through ground that won't dry out sufficiently until mid-April (if the rains would abate now), and with the way this winter has gone it's more likely to be mid or late May. Plenty of other projects, however to keep me busy and build skills.
Yes, definitely, I want a check valve... While I'm not terribly concerned that I, myself, would put reverse flow into the hoe, I can envision a scenario where somebody else might just jam the A-B lever into the wrong position without realizing the consequences.
The only problem is that the check valves are just horribly expensive, upwards of $150! Are there any simple and much less expensive check valves that would work for this system (2600 psi, 8gpm flow)? For something like this, a simple ball-check ought to work, though spring-poppets are probably more common.
The only problem is that the check valves are just horribly expensive, upwards of $150! Are there any simple and much less expensive check valves that would work for this system (2600 psi, 8gpm flow)? For something like this, a simple ball-check ought to work, though spring-poppets are probably more common.
SSdoxie
Elite Member
VONBERG VALVES INLINE CHECK VALVE 19139-.188
Here is a simple inline check valve for Surplus Center. Shipping will likely be more than the valve @ $8.95.
Here is a simple inline check valve for Surplus Center. Shipping will likely be more than the valve @ $8.95.
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Wow! That is a pretty good price, even if I have to pay shipping. The hydraulic shop I talked to was finding much, much higher prices... perhaps I should shop elsewhere!
Thanks for the link!
PS: I checked the site, and USPS shipping is only about $7, so it's not a bad deal at all! Thanks again!
Thanks for the link!
PS: I checked the site, and USPS shipping is only about $7, so it's not a bad deal at all! Thanks again!
Seems to me with a check valve in line and then you pull the lever to the wrong position you then will dead head your pump. Would it be worth installing a relief valve before the check valve? You could vent it to atmosphere, hopefully never goes off but if so fluid loss would be your only loss.
May be a built in relief valve in the auxiliary valve, I may do a little research on that.
Little more research shows on page "spec-30-4" under hydraulic system the system relief at quick couplers is 2611psi. I suppose this is assurance that relief is built in so forget my ramblings. I do believe looking at pictures of the valve the relief is built into the auxiliary valve, not the loader valve. I know the loader valve has relief also.
May be a built in relief valve in the auxiliary valve, I may do a little research on that.
Little more research shows on page "spec-30-4" under hydraulic system the system relief at quick couplers is 2611psi. I suppose this is assurance that relief is built in so forget my ramblings. I do believe looking at pictures of the valve the relief is built into the auxiliary valve, not the loader valve. I know the loader valve has relief also.
SSdoxie
Elite Member
The pressure relief in the loader valve would open in this case to momentarily protect the pump and the engine will RPM will decrease. This would be no different than going to a dirt pile with the loader, pull back on the lift and nothing happens because you have too much weight in bucket.