om21braz
Veteran Member
If you're really getting serious, I'd build or invest in a couple wind flags - Sinclair has them or you can see pictures to get the idea of how to make them yourself.
Realoding fine tunning
- Thread starter czechsonofagun
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foggy1111
Elite Member
Or.....just shoot on a day when the wind aint blowing too hard.
(.....for those who don't want to fool with flags.) braz does have a point.....the wind will blow those bullets (and open those groups) quite a bit on a breezy day. Way too much work for the casual shooter / hunter tho.
OP
czechsonofagun
Elite Member
I got the 130 HNDY SST to 1+ inch group using H4831. Good enough, but with RL19 and HNDY 150 SST those holes kiss at hundred yards. I guess this rifle just likes heavier bullets.
But it was fun getting these results, that counts too, doesn't it?
But it was fun getting these results, that counts too, doesn't it?
Egon
Epic Contributor
Okay, now for the next step.
Start by cutting 1/4 the length of lighter bullets of off the rifle barrel and see what happens to the accuracy.
Start by cutting 1/4 the length of lighter bullets of off the rifle barrel and see what happens to the accuracy.
whistlepig
Elite Member
I like the fun of hand loading and the results also. Tuning a load to a gun is worthwhile. You will never get as good as accuracy from factory loads as hand loading to fit your gun. And it's cheaper than factory ammo.
LD1
Epic Contributor
I am glad to hear you are getting better results now.
From my experience, the 3 most influential elements of the load are bullet type, powder, and seating depth, in that order.
I have a .223 with a fast twist of 1 in 8. It shoots the 50gr and 55gr CT silvertip bullets as well as the sierra 69gr BTHP very well with a middle of the road load of varget. I tried some 52gr barnes x-bullets and tried several combinations of powder type and charges and best I could do was a 4" group at 100yds. The other three bullets do 1/4" groups. I still dont understand this one
An example of powder in in my 22-250. It is a custom gun and my dad also has a 22-250 custom. His will shoot 1/4" @ 100 using imr4064. I use h380 with the same results. of the 3 powders suitable for a 22-250 that we carry (IMR4064, varget, and H380) we spent a whole day trying different loads, varying the charges, powder type, and seating depth, as well as a few kinds of bullets and my worst group with H380 was better than the best of anything else. Same for dads gun but only with 4064. And both of these guns shoot 1/4" groups.
If you really want a 130gr bullet that shoots well, don't limit yourself to just one brand/type. Try different brands and types, hollow points, SP's, ballistic tips, etc. I don't see the twist of the barrel being a issue with .270 bullets ranging from 85gr to 150gr. Fast twist barrels are better for heavy bullets but cant shoot light ones as they spin way to fast, and slow twist barrels are better for light bullets, but cant spin the heavy ones fast enough stabilize them. With a 130gr "middle of the road weigh" sould not be a problem no matter what the twist is.
One more thing, and someone correct me if i am wrong, but I have always been told NOT to dry fire a .22. Due to them being a rimfire, the firing pin will strike the chamber with no round in and wear it out faster.
From my experience, the 3 most influential elements of the load are bullet type, powder, and seating depth, in that order.
I have a .223 with a fast twist of 1 in 8. It shoots the 50gr and 55gr CT silvertip bullets as well as the sierra 69gr BTHP very well with a middle of the road load of varget. I tried some 52gr barnes x-bullets and tried several combinations of powder type and charges and best I could do was a 4" group at 100yds. The other three bullets do 1/4" groups. I still dont understand this one
An example of powder in in my 22-250. It is a custom gun and my dad also has a 22-250 custom. His will shoot 1/4" @ 100 using imr4064. I use h380 with the same results. of the 3 powders suitable for a 22-250 that we carry (IMR4064, varget, and H380) we spent a whole day trying different loads, varying the charges, powder type, and seating depth, as well as a few kinds of bullets and my worst group with H380 was better than the best of anything else. Same for dads gun but only with 4064. And both of these guns shoot 1/4" groups.
If you really want a 130gr bullet that shoots well, don't limit yourself to just one brand/type. Try different brands and types, hollow points, SP's, ballistic tips, etc. I don't see the twist of the barrel being a issue with .270 bullets ranging from 85gr to 150gr. Fast twist barrels are better for heavy bullets but cant shoot light ones as they spin way to fast, and slow twist barrels are better for light bullets, but cant spin the heavy ones fast enough stabilize them. With a 130gr "middle of the road weigh" sould not be a problem no matter what the twist is.
One more thing, and someone correct me if i am wrong, but I have always been told NOT to dry fire a .22. Due to them being a rimfire, the firing pin will strike the chamber with no round in and wear it out faster.
GaryM
Veteran Member
Depends on the firearm involved. Ruger pistols are OK to dry fire as long as the firing pin stop pin is in the bolt. It will stop the firing pin from hitting the rim of the chamber. Their 10/22s are the same way. It never hurts to use snap caps, and they make them for .22s.
