RDrancher's Photo Thread

[jinman]

That's another fine job, John. That white brick sure looks pretty on that house, but the red dirt will splatter it badly without grass or something around that foundation. I don't see any gutters and we have rain predicted mid-week. Am I being over-reactive? Maybe, but I just don't like the bathtub ring look of nice new brick that gets mud splattered with our red dirt. Your job is great, but you'll have to let me know if I'm right or wrong about the splatter.

BTW: I've seen several stone retainer walls you've done and love 'em. I need to build at least a couple, and I'm quite sure I can't do it all by myself. There's no hurry and it can be done anytime, but if you are over in this Decatur-to-Bowie area sometime, I'd love for you to look at it and put some numbers to it. I have one short 30' wall with a corner that needs to be done first and then a long wall along my yard at the driveway apron. I'll PM you my email and I can send you some photos to get an idea before your having to drive this far. I've seen enough of your work to convince me I've found the right person to do my work. Also, I have a 'few' pieces of equipment to help with the job.

 

[EddieWalker]

Why metal culverts? I have one and I've never had any problems with it, but I like plastic with a smooth bore a lot better. The metal one always has sediment in it and the smooth bores are all clean.

Eddie

 

[RDrancher]

That's another fine job, John. That white brick sure looks pretty on that house, but the red dirt will splatter it badly without grass or something around that foundation. I don't see any gutters and we have rain predicted mid-week. Am I being over-reactive? Maybe, but I just don't like the bathtub ring look of nice new brick that gets mud splattered with our red dirt. Your job is great, but you'll have to let me know if I'm right or wrong about the splatter.

BTW: I've seen several stone retainer walls you've done and love 'em. I need to build at least a couple, and I'm quite sure I can't do it all by myself. There's no hurry and it can be done anytime, but if you are over in this Decatur-to-Bowie area sometime, I'd love for you to look at it and put some numbers to it. I have one short 30' wall with a corner that needs to be done first and then a long wall along my yard at the driveway apron. I'll PM you my email and I can send you some photos to get an idea before your having to drive this far. I've seen enough of your work to convince me I've found the right person to do my work. Also, I have a 'few' pieces of equipment to help with the job.

Rain??? No!!! I've got way too much to do!

Jim, I agree on the red dirt / brick issue. It's a pretty typical owner/builder "building steps not in the correct order" scenario. The customer is trying to get a final on the home this Monday. I'm putting in a narrow roadbase drive for now, and they'll pour concrete later.

On your wall, shoot me some info and we'll get together and figure out a plan. :thumbsup:

 

[RDrancher]

Why metal culverts? I have one and I've never had any problems with it, but I like plastic with a smooth bore a lot better. The metal one always has sediment in it and the smooth bores are all clean.

Eddie, the county and most cities around here spec steel culverts, the size and the invert elevation. A couple even want concrete pipe. Most of them require permanent, TxDot style, poured-in-place or prefabbed concrete ends too. It's a pain, but that's the way it is.

The only problem I have with ADS pipe is that the company wants 12" of compacted fill above them, unless they're placed below a concrete driveway. A lot of the culverts I set are lucky to get 5" of anything.

 

[lutt]

Thanks for taking the time to post photos and describe your work. I have started getting into the driveway grading business on my days off(I have 30 days at a time). I just read thru all of your post, I have learned alot from them, you do great work. I grew up on a large ag farm, where I learned to run dozers,excavators, dirt pans leveling fields with laser equipment and backhoes, doing every thing from land clearing to maintaining no telling how many miles of field roads. I still work there on my days off also. But, I have people ask me about grading/fixn there driveways. The only thing right now I need to upgrade is my boxblade, I have a 4 ft, I need a 5. I have use of my friends 14' dumptrailer, I use my 4200 deere hyd, and we have a limestone quarry outside of town. My biggest issue is learning how to charge. Thanks again for posting. LUTT

 

[RDrancher]

Lutt, you have a PM.

 

[lutt]

Lutt, you have a PM.

Thanks, sent you one back. LUTT

 

[RDrancher]

I picked up and dropped off a few culverts for a job today. The project is for a couple of members (husband and wife) here on TBN. Even though the job is quite a ways away from my main stomping grounds, I've been looking forward to it for quite awhile now. Great folks!

 

[RDrancher]

Did some clearing for a new private drive. Mmmmm...forgot to take pics of the big tree pile.

 

[ben2go]

I would like to ask a question.If I am out of line,please let me know and we can chat in PM.

In a few years I am planning to build a 30x40 garage.The drive way up is fairly steep grade.From the road to the front of the shop,the vertical rise is 15 feet over a 90 foot run.I will be bringing vehicles in and out with a GVWR of no more than 30,000lbs.What would you suggest for the drive way,pavement or rebar reenforced concrete?What should the thickness be?My building slab will be 6 inch rebar reenforced concrete.The reason I ask is,at my house the driveway pavement mars every time I jack a vehicle up.Heck,my porch swing even marred up in the pavement.

 

[RDrancher]

I would like to ask a question.If I am out of line,please let me know and we can chat in PM.

In a few years I am planning to build a 30x40 garage.The drive way up is fairly steep grade.From the road to the front of the shop,the vertical rise is 15 feet over a 90 foot run.I will be bringing vehicles in and out with a GVWR of no more than 30,000lbs.What would you suggest for the drive way,pavement or rebar reenforced concrete?What should the thickness be?My building slab will be 6 inch rebar reenforced concrete.The reason I ask is,at my house the driveway pavement mars every time I jack a vehicle up.Heck,my porch swing even marred up in the pavement.

Ben, if the cost doesn't deter you, I'd opt for concrete, mainly because of the slope. Even though 4" thickness will handle the weight, if you have them pour at 5" you can spec "4 rebar for reinforcement. A lot of guys will place #4 rebar in 4" concrete, but its too large and if it's set on rebar chairs its too high in the slab and can lead to premature surface cracks. Sometimes bigger isn't better.

I like to thicken up the perimeter of the slab for extra strength. On a slope, the extra depth can also help to keep water from getting under the concrete and forming voids. At the bottom of the slope, the little footing helps to stabilize the slab. 6-7" around the perimeter is plenty...thicker can lead to settling and crack the slab down the middle. I'd also go with fibermesh, it's fairly inexpensive and really does help keep micro-cracks at bay. There are plenty of admixtures to choose from...water reducers increase strength by making the concrete more workable at a lower slump and air-entrainment helps in the freeze-thaw cycle. Finally, make sure the contractor places 3/4-1" deep tooled joints at no more than10' intervals to control random cracking and then applies a semi-heavy broom or textured trowel finish to give you plenty of traction.

 

[ben2go]

Ben, if the cost doesn't deter you, I'd opt for concrete, mainly because of the slope. Even though 4" thickness will handle the weight, if you have them pour at 5" you can spec "4 rebar for reinforcement. A lot of guys will place #4 rebar in 4" concrete, but its too large and if it's set on rebar chairs its too high in the slab and can lead to premature surface cracks. Sometimes bigger isn't better.

I like to thicken up the perimeter of the slab for extra strength. On a slope, the extra depth can also help to keep water from getting under the concrete and forming voids. At the bottom of the slope, the little footing helps to stabilize the slab. 6-7" around the perimeter is plenty...thicker can lead to settling and crack the slab down the middle. I'd also go with fibermesh, it's fairly inexpensive and really does help keep micro-cracks at bay. There are plenty of admixtures to choose from...water reducers increase strength by making the concrete more workable at a lower slump and air-entrainment helps in the freeze-thaw cycle. Finally, make sure the contractor places 3/4-1" deep tooled joints at no more than10' intervals to control random cracking and then applies a semi-heavy broom or textured trowel finish to give you plenty of traction.

Thanks.That is very helpful.Should I consider french drains down the sides of the driveway?The ground slopes toward the driveway.The lawn absorbs most of the water and there's very little run off except during periods of extended rain storms or heavy rain.I don't cut the grass short in this area.About 2 inches is how I keep the grass.

 

[RDrancher]

A french drain will catch underground water, which may help (up to a point) during rain storms. At least it would keep down the saturation level. I would also add a few T's with atrium drain heads connected to the same pipe to catch surface water. If you do put in a FD, I'd use 4" corex type perforated pipe and install a 90 with a cleanout fitting at the uphill end too. I detest the flexible corrugated pipe, especially the pre-wrapped stuff. To me it screams "EL-CHEAPO CUT CORNERS CONTRACTOR." I've removed too much of it over the years, crushed, plugged, incorrectly installed and just plain not working. I wouldn't use it if they gave it to me for free!

You could also create a slight swale to help catch runoff, but without seeing it I don't know if it would cause a problem at the exit or not.

 

[ben2go]

A french drain will catch underground water, which may help (up to a point) during rain storms. At least it would keep down the saturation level. I would also add a few T's with atrium drain heads connected to the same pipe to catch surface water. If you do put in a FD, I'd use 4" corex type perforated pipe and install a 90 with a cleanout fitting at the uphill end too. I detest the flexible corrugated pipe, especially the pre-wrapped stuff. To me it screams "EL-CHEAPO CUT CORNERS CONTRACTOR." I've removed too much of it over the years, crushed, plugged, incorrectly installed and just plain not working. I wouldn't use it if they gave it to me for free!

You could also create a slight swale to help catch runoff, but without seeing it I don't know if it would cause a problem at the exit or not.

Thanks.I will make notes for when it's time to pour.I am dealing with collapsed perforated corrugated pipe now.I have a thread about my septic system issues.I'll be updating that thread shortly.

 

[RDrancher]

Thanks.I will make notes for when it's time to pour.I am dealing with collapsed perforated corrugated pipe now.I have a thread about my septic system issues.I'll be updating that thread shortly.

Could you post a link to your thread so I can check it out?

Graded and graveled a driveway today. I'll be back to compact it along with a few others nearby. I can offer better pricing to the customers that way.

 

[ben2go]

Could you post a link to your thread so I can check it out?

Graded and graveled a driveway today. I'll be back to compact it along with a few others nearby. I can offer better pricing to the customers that way.

View attachment 305859 View attachment 305860

I haven't started the project it's about a year out,if things don't break down.My leech field issue is here. Leech Field Collapse-Repair Help - Page 5

 

[RDrancher]

After failing to duck low enough while walking between my truck and GN trailer yesterday afternoon...which resulting in me smacking my melon against it and landing on my back in the parking lot at my local fuel stop...I decided to take it a little easy today. I feel like I got hit by a...trailer.

I noticed last evening that I had once again cracked the bucket. It probably didn't help that the bolt on the cutting edge was loose. I'm not a welder by any standards, but I get it done and it holds. I also developed a leak earlier in the day at one of the loader quick connects.


I was given these gloves by a friend. I can't really recommend them. I wore out the leather fingertips by the end of the second day. Oh, that...and they caught on fire while I was grinding off the nuts on the cutting edge plow bolts.


My boy checking out a Mahindra at the NH dealer. Pretty cool little machine!


I hadn't seen this monster around here before, so I thought I'd stop and take a couple of pics.

 

[LJH]

You broke that bucket with you head too, admit it!

And hey, didn't you promise us some GoPro action by this month? C'mon, it's only money, you'll get more.

 

[ben2go]

That Mahindra pic is front page material.:steeringwheel:

 

[LJH]

That Mahindra pic is front page material.:steeringwheel:

True. The kid looks right natural up there, don't he?