Ratcheting Top Link

[dourobob]

I did a search for this and came up with a few good ideas but there was a link to a "Self Contained Hydraulic Top Link" that I could not get to work.

Does anyone know about such a device? Is it the poor man's hydraulic top link or is is just a costly as a full install?

Thanks
Bob

 

[Inspector507]

Is this what you were looking for?

 

[WVBill]

I was wondering about a similar question. If anyone watches the Discovery Channel show "Monster Garage", they frequently use Linear Actuators . It would seem that one of these could be adapted to function as an "electrical top link" ???

By the way, try this link to Jiffy HItch for info on the self contained hydraulic top link. The concept doesn't seem all that useful to me but I have not tried it.

 

[hazmat]

In general linear actuaters are much more expensive than hydraulic cylinders for a given push/pull. You've already got the pump (tractor) just need to add the valve, hoses & cylinder.

That said there is always the exception to the rule, your milage may vary.

 

[jph_in_Bama]

Has anyone tried the Jiffy Hitch on a BX2200? How much does it cost? There is no pricing on their web page.

 

[dourobob]

Inspector 507 and WVBill
That looks like the item. From what I can see the only way to lengthen or shorten is to make gravity your friend. Unless I missed something there is no way to extend (or shorten) against gravity - i.e.- by using some kind of small hydraulic hand pump.

Thanks for the link.

Bob

 

[WVBill]

Bob: That's what I meant about it not being all that useful a concept. As I understand it, to shorten the link, you let the implement drop to the ground and then gravity continues to pull the 3pt down which puts pressure on the link and, if you've opened the valve, shortens the link. To lengthen the link the reverse is true - with the implement raised, open the valve and the link lengthens. I can't see how this could possibly function like a hydraulic top link to make adjustments while you're working.

 

[CTyler]

I would have to say this it is quite usefull provided the price is much less. Making adjustments from the tractor seat sure beats twisting on the top link. Also raise/lower 3pt every couple turns to release the pressure.

 

[CTyler]

Also usefull if you do not have remote hydraulics.

I called them and the price is $245 for either one. That is a lot better price than what I got from Kubota dealer and Rankin.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

The limitations compared to a plumbed top cylinder seem obvious. But how does it compare to a normal manual top link?

I see a potential shortcoming- It does not appear that there would be any easy way to shorten the top link beyond how far the implement pushes it after hitting the ground. It seems that one could crank a manual top link to actually lift (or tilt forward) an implement up to the shortest limit of the top link. Ditto for extension- even with the lift arms raised, once any portion of the implement hits the ground, the top link will stop extending, although I'm not sure how far into the ground you would want to try to drive an implement by cranking the top link.

 

[Inspector507]

The way that I thought it worked was........
To shorten the link, open valve and raise 3ph. Shortens link. Close valve.
To lengthen link, while raised, open valve and lower 3ph. Then close valve when lengthened to desired length.

Thats the way it was explained to me once, but I never saw it in action.

 

[Rowski]

I thought it is opposite of what you said. Because the weight is behind the lower pins, when you lift it up the weight would pull the top link apart?

 

[CTyler]

I have a Woods box blade and grading blade. To raise or lower the implement beyond gravity you could drive forward or back slightly. This provides the extra push/pull you need.

BTW...I have remote hydraulics and ordered thier unit for that.

 

[CTyler]

You are correct.

Raise implement to lengthen toplink.

Drop implement to shorten toplink.

 

[Inspector507]

Guess I'm dyslexic........... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I just got on this thread and the concept seems good for some applications. I am specifically interested in using a hyd. top link on the box blade (if it ever shows up). Correct me if I'm all wet, but the unit should work pretty well for the box operation as described below.

If you wanted to rock the box forward to rip you would start moving and open the valve to allow the drag of the box to rotate it forward and close the link, and that would dig the scarifers in. You would be able to slowly ease into the scarifers by throttling the valve as you move forward until you get the cut desired.

To open the link, raise the box, or back up with the box down, while opening the valve in the opposite direction, thereby opening the link before you started grading.

Keep in mind that the valve can be located on the tractor so the reach should not be a problem.

Am I all wet or will this work???
DaveL