Range report - DPMS 7.62x39 carbine

[Specop_007]

I have fitted 2 different scope bases, only because it took so long to get a 1 piece rail type steel base for this rifle. Prior to last weekend, I fitted a 2 piece Warne steel scope base. I suspect that although not stated on the packaging, it was a 20MOA base, since after getting on the paper at 25 yds, it shot 6" high when I went to 100yds.

Last weekend, when sighting in, I was shooting some "cheap" (relative term @$17/20) US made ammo. It was definitely "mild", since the recoil was nothing like I am getting with the Yugoslavian ammo. I only had a total of 20 rounds and after getting dialed in at 25 yds and then nearly missing the paper at 100yds by being 6" above aiming point and then dialing the scope back down, I had precious few shots left to check grouping. I would say that from memory it was "dispersed" above, below and to the sides of the aiming point. I specifically used targets with the bold horizontal and vertical bars to aid in alignment of the scope, given the not so extreme magnification (2-7x33 Redfield).

During the course of last week, the Warne 1 piece steel scope base came in and I also got vertically split steel rings. Warne 1" Maxima Permanent-Attachable Weaver-Style Rings Matte Medium - MidwayUSA

I fitted it to the receiver during the week and bore sighted it the same as I had previously done by removing the bolt. The 1 piece scope base is secured with 4 screws and had no rock or wobble detectable even before it was fastened down. I did not have blue thread lock available, so I know that I will have to take it off to install the thread locking compound at some point in the future. Same with the trigger adjustment screws.

So in going over the process when I got to the range, the first thing was to set up at the 25 range, set up my targets and check how well things were dialed in. I was initially high by about 4.5" and slightly right, so I made some corrective adjustments. Then I confirmed that I was just above center (I was told that theoretically I should be sighting about 2" high at 25yds, but do to the experience with being high at 100yds with this rifle, I was sighting in about 1" high, not 2.

Then I went to the 100yd range and tried for the center of the target to see if I was on the paper. I was, but it was about 4.5" above point of aim and slightly right. Got the scoped dialed down about 16 clicks and I was now hitting above and below point of aim. I went down and set up 2 new targets to look at grouping. Because of the lousy grouping after making the scope adjustments, I decided to remove the muzzle break, in case it was a contributing factor. With the brake removed, I made no adjustment to the scope and was just interested in how the rifle grouped. Needless to say, I was very disappointed. This was after I had made the trigger adjustments on Saturday that had brought down the trigger pull to something closer to 3lb, where it was previously 8-9lb.

1 thing I failed to mention, was that I cleaned the bore with hoppes #9 before I shot the last batch of targets. I had fired about 30 rounds up to that point and wanted to start with a clean bore. After running the bore mop through several strokes I used a series of patches until they came out clean, then a patch saturated with Remoil, followed by more dry patches until they came out without any noticeable residue. I do believe that the first round out the bore was the one closest to the point of aim and the more rounds that followed, the higher they seemed to go. Why should that be ?

Guess you can rule out scope mounts.

A clean bore will usually shoot slightly different POI (Point of impact) than a fouled bore. Thats why a lot of guys will take a few fouling shots to get the barrel to settle down. Personally I rarely clean my barrel outside of a few patches to keep the rust off. Thats just me.

As for what would cause the deviation in your rounds theres a ton of variables. Could be the bore heating up and changing the POI. Could be the shooter. Could be ammo, could be moving from a clean to a fouled bore.

I would say start with not having a squeeky clean bore. Also make sure you keep the action open and give a minute or two between shots to keep the bore from getting too hot. Could also try bedding the stock. Also different ammo.

Accuracy is more a pursuit than a destination. :thumbsup:

 

[westcliffe01]

To brings things up to date, I have done many things in the last few weeks.

Bought some boxer primed current manufacture ammo for the Mauser

Bought a "proper" scope for it (4-16x50 Nikon Monarch with side focus)

These things have resulted in some improvement downrange

1" white aiming point with 1" wide band around it = total 3". I was sighting 2" high. The trigger is still not to my satisfaction and I probably need a better rest than the plastic one I use. I also have not been using the muzzle brake, but this weekend I properly deburred it and re-fitted it. I am going to look for a different brake for field use that only has side ports, since this brake will kick up a lot of dust off the ground.

Looks like I will send this trigger out to Gun Smith Service

I have concluded that without new internal springs and a few other changes, there is no way that the later Remington triggers can be lightened in a safe manner. Neil Jones seems to have an excellent reputation on the Remington trigger and for only $70 including return postage (and it appears you only have to send the trigger, not the entire barreled action.

On the DPMS / AK I replaced the 1-4x scope with a 3-12 Nikon Monarch with side focus. My eyesight requires a bit more than 4x magnification at 100yds and beyond.

Things have improved downrange with that combo too:

I spent some time tonight reducing the trigger spring preload and it (to my surprise) does appear to improve the feel of the trigger, but have not shot it yet. Bear in mind the above group is shot with 1978 Yugoslavian surplus ammo.

I will report back later once I get the triggers optimized a bit...