Ranch Type Entrance

[TNhobbyfarmer]

I'm thinking about building/installing one of those ranch type driveway log entrances like the ones you see in the west, you know, the kind with the two tall vertical poles and the horizontal pole across the top. Anyone ever done that? Do you think one should put on the horizontal pole before it is erected or put the two vertical poles in the ground and then somehow put the horizontal pole on top afterwards? My thought is to fabricate it first, then erect the whole thing, but I am open to suggestions. I do have a FEL and that should be helpful. What say ye?

 

[firemanpat2910]

depends on how big you make it. My buddy hired his out because it was so big. they pre-made the cross bars to the first set of uprights, then had an angled trench to pull them into then they dropped in the holes. 4 more uprights each getting shorter were added after that. It was made out of timbers from an old RR bridge. 10" or more dia. and about 20' long.

 

[schmism]

you might be able to get it done yourself depending on the capacity of your FEL. With a boom pole on the FEL you would have the reach you need but capacity is another issue... unlikely to be able to lift a 300lb log 15' into the air.

remember bridges are required to be marked with height under 17'

 

[CurlyDave]

Make it big enough.

I have seen a lot of them which I considered too small.

Think moving van, fire truck, well drilling rig, double wide prefab house, etc. They look really nice, and I might even get one eventually, but the concept of deliberately putting an obstruction across the driveway still has me scratching my head...

I would either assemble it on the ground and then erect it, or hire it done.

As much as I would love to have a boom pole, the idea of an inexperienced boom pole operator lifting a huge log overhead while someone on a ladder attaches it to a 16 to 20' upright sounds like a safety issue to me.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

You can rent a skytrack type forklift for a day and it'll be nothing but a thing.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'd do it like Harvey said. Get the right tool for the job and it becomes easy.

Here's a picture of one that really impressed me here in East Texas.

Eddie

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

I'd do it like Harvey said. Get the right tool for the job and it becomes easy.

Here's a picture of one that really impressed me here in East Texas.

Eddie

You're right Eddie. That one is quite impressive. I don't envision mine to be quite that massive. I'm thinking more in the line of three 10-14" diameter cedar poles that I cut myself. I do have some big cedars on my place but nothing like that, not to mention enough $$$$ to complete a project like that.

 

[GaryBDavis]

Headache brace is one of the terms used to describe the horizontal bar over the gate entrance. They help keep the post straight and the gate aligned. That’s the reason most folks use them. If you are worried about big trucks coming through, put it up 14’ tall. The maximum height allowed for vehicles on the road is 13’6”. So, fire trucks, concrete trucks, RVs, etc will all fit through.

The ones I’ve built were made of steel and welded on site, but laid out on the ground. Actually, we laid them out on adjustable pipe stands where we could get everything level and square.

To raise them, construct the gate posts/headache brace in a position so that the bottom of the posts are right where the holes are. Place pieces of angle iron (maybe 4”x4”) in the holes. This will act as pivot points when you tilt the assembly up and help the posts slide down the holes as well.

You can use a pickup truck and chain to pull the assembly up and into place. Just remember to use a nice, long chain. It needs to be long enough that if the assembly falls towards the truck, you are far enough away so it won’t crush anything.

This works well on welded steel, but one made from wood might be better assembled upright and in place.

The last one I did, I even welded the gate onto the post/headache brace assembly before I raised it. I had a bottom bar welded to the posts a foot below the bottom of the gate. I dug a small trench between the two posts that was level. When we raised the gate/post assembly, everything fell into place. All I had to do was level the posts in one direction and pour concrete. 15 minutes after we raised the assembly, we had it set in place. It was kind of cool to see a completed gate entry in place in 15 minutes.

 

[Avadon]

I don't have a farm or a tractor but I found this site via google regarding ranch entrances. :laughing: I am a blacksmith and welder/fabricator who, after years of trying to work in subdivisions, realized I had to move out into the country where the ranches, horses and farms are. Out here the neighbors don't mind a little hammer sounds in the background and the idea of a local blacksmith who they can get work done at cost or for free is a boon, and not a bane.

Anyway I saw this thread and signed up to comment. As mentioned before by previous poster ranch entrances are obstructions so think about doing them once and doing them big enough. "Think moving van, fire truck, well drilling rig, double wide prefab house, etc." It's likely that at some point all off these things are going to pass under your ranch entrance. You do not want anything to ever clip it or flat out refuse to deliver because they can't get underneath. You wouldn't want your double wide manufactured home to arrive only to find out you have to get a chain saw or angle grinder to cut down that archway you paid thousand for or spent a summer building. You also don't want this thing to fall over in a high wind and create property damage, pull down a power line, crush a vehicle or devil forbid hurt injure or kill someone. These things are heavy and should be overbuilt. They need a concrete footing in almost all cases I've seen and be buried deep into the earth.

I am going to make my own ranch entrance, but instead of wood i'm going to use concrete pillars with natural stone from the area encasing them with mortar. Atop the two pillars I'm going to make two psuedo towers and horizonal trellis all in ornate metal work. I happen to have all the tools for this so it comes far easier than doing a large log entrance. A ranch entrance doesn't necessarily have to be a million pounds of logs. I've seen fine ones done in lumber or with metal 4" poles. Sometimes a ranch entrance isn't even necessarily the best option. If it's not a main driveway or access to the home an arbor or other structure might be more suitable.

Ranch entrances are building structures and as such they 'sometimes' require a permit. Always, always, always (did I stress this enough?) ask your local counties building department if you need a permit to build a ranch entrance. If your timid don't give them your address, just ask for your general knowledge. In many instances you will not need to get a permit nor submit plans/design for a ranch entrance. In some instances you will.

In my area of Oregon most construction projects under $2000.00 of building material do not require a permit. Yet on average, speaking nation-wide, pillars and many structures (depending on your county) over 6' usually require a permit. Especially if your in a non-rural area. My part of Oregon thankfully does not. This varies county to county and state by state. Follow that old addage, if you don't know, ask. Even if you do need a permit for your ranch entrance the permit fee is often a nominal fee in the range of $100. You may have to submit a simple 2-view sketch of the entrance and some accompanying notes. Really not a big deal and certainly no reason to fear your permits office. They are generally very nice down there and will thank you for taking the time to contact them before you set off building something elaborate. They will even tell you what you need to submit. You don't have to hire an architect or engineer for this. They just want to see what your doing. Talking to your local building department office will also save you from possibly getting a fine later or worse having to tear the darn thing down if it's way outside of code requirement. So just a phone call or two can really put your mind at ease. In my case I had to talk to the building permit office of my county and HOA ranch community assocation. Both said I was fine provided I followed the city ordiances. Both were very pleasent and easy to talk to. Now I don't have to stress about doing something potentially illegal or worry if a neighbor doesn't like what I'm doing. I'm well within my right. That peace of mind is worth it's weight in gold. I'm on about 1.25 acre so it was even more important for me to know I'm within code. When your told your well within your right to build without a permit make sure to jot down the names of the people who green lighted you at the building department. That way if anything comes into question you can say I talked to Joe Blow down at the Cornwall Building and Planning Department in Washington County and he said "I was okay to build."

If other people in your area have ranch entrances chances are they no permit required or easy permit to get. Still, always ask your county office. If you don't have home owners insurance, get it. Your just asking for trouble if you have overhanging gates, archways, timbers, tall fences, or anything that the soliciting girl scout, postal worker, missionary, etc can get hurt on. If part of your ranch entrance falls on someone and injures them they may sue you and end up owning your home. Home owners insurance is a must. And when your talking about obstructions on your property, especially the overhead kind it's mandatory. Do the right thing, protect yourself and others with insurance.

Next I'll just briefly give you an outline of the code in my area (you must find out for yourself what is code in your area from the building department in your county) as a ballpark guideline of what dimensions you'll most likely be working within. In my area:

*Ranch Entrance must be 30 feet back from property line.
*Ranch Entrance must be under 35 feet tall.
*Ranch Entrance horizontal must be at a minimum of 15 feet tall.
(This is for emergency vehicles/EMS/Fire/Police)
*If your driveway is less than 150 feet long, the minimum driveway width is 14 feet.
*If your driveway is 150 feet or more long, the minimum driveway width is 20 feet.
*18" depth minimum concrete footings to be under the frost line. This is bare minimum.
It never hurts to go deeper and wider with your footing adding to safety.
*Generally speaking, the height should be about 1.5 times the width for an appealing majestic look.
*Research and use the proper footing for your construction.
*Even if you don't need a permit, design and sketch your entrance on paper including dimensions and construction. Keep this with your house documents in case you need to provide it to future buyer.


Other driveway restrictions and considerations that are imperative for your safety and the safety of others.

*If your building a ranch entrance it' nice to have a circular driveway or another way in. If your ranch entrance fell and obstructed the entrance is there another way in for your EMS/Police/Fire/Construction crew/etc.

*If possible, a circular driveway, or at least a 40' - 50' "all weather" - surfaced turn around area near your house, should be provided.

*Your driveway must be covered with an "all weather" surface. (Gravel, asphalt, etc.)

*Please do not line your driveway with rocks! Although it is a convenient way to get rid of the rocks on your property, it can make it very difficult to maneuver fire dept apparatus around, and may possibly cause damage to the apparatus. In the event of a fire, rocks cause a tripping hazard to firefighters, and make it extremely difficult to maneuver our hoses, as they get hung up on the rocks. In the wintertime, we may need to plow your driveway to gain access for our fire apparatus in an emergency. Rock lined driveways make this much more difficult!

*TREES: Please trim trees near your driveway! Most of our apparatus (ambulances, fire engines, etc.) are taller and less maneuverable than your vehicles. Overhanging branches obstruct access, and cause damage to the apparatus. Please trim up any branches that overhang your driveway to at least 10 feet above the driveway.

*ARCHWAYS: DO NOT build archways over your driveway that are lower than 15' tall at the lowest point, and not less than the minimum driveway width. It is imperative that we have plenty of overhead clearance for our apparatus and any neighboring Fire Departments' apparatus that may be assisting us.

*GATES: Gates should not be less than 12 feet wide. We would prefer that gates be a minimum of 16' wide, especially if the gate is placed near the roadway. It is very difficult for us to turn any of our apparatus thru a narrow gate placed near the roadway.

*Get an emergency address sign, or replace existing address sign that is not up to spec. These emergency signs are green with white letters and they help emergency vehicles find your address in the dark. The ability for them to find your home easily may save a life.



Now back to entrances. If you go to google images you can see a ton of ranch entrances. One of the ones I liked best after looking at dozens was the one outside of George Lucas' ranch. It has stone pillars, ornate metal worked towers and a trellis type archway. This would be daunting for most, but if your a welder/blacksmith like myself or know one this could be an enjoyable and relatively do-able DIY project. Whatever you do make sure your footings are meeting the minimum code in your area. In my area it is 18" and I prepare to go down 2' and my archway isn't even top heavy. Some may want to go down deeper. Remember that side to side your braced by the horizontal. The footing needs to stop it from ever falling forward or rearward. Ranch entrances should also be routinely inspected form time to time to make sure timber, stone, metal's are in good condition and nothing is wearing or stressing.

Other neat things you can do with ranch entrances are running electrical into them for lighting or to power mechanical prop. If the idea of running electrical is too daunting or impossible consider installing or hanging solar powered lanterns from your archway. In sunny areas these work exceptionally well and the nicad batteries in them last a long time. You might also want to consider solar powered spot lights in front of your ranch entrance to put a focal light on your archway and property entrance or to highlight the name of your farm/ranch/property.

I hoped this information helped someone out there thinking of building an entrance. They are pieces of art in themselves and they are the first thing your friends, visitors, neighbors will see when they come to your property so doing it well, safe, and to code is important. You want to put your best foot forward in a ranch entrance. Also resale is important. You might want to consider hanging your name or business from the entrance as opposed to carving it into the timbers or welding it in. As with most things you do on your property you have to ask "is this something that no one else in the world but me will enjoy" if it is you might want to pause before doing it and give it some honest thought. Are you sticking around on that property or in a few years might you move on? Things to consider.

I'll upload some pictures so you can see a few entrances. Get the creative juices flowing.

Cheers,
Avadon :thumbsup:

 

[coreshot]

Good info, Avadon, welcome to the site.

 

[jgrreed]

Agree with everything above. When I built mine I saw a lot of nice gates around, but always wondered "now who do you call to build, or get advice, on building those??".

This is how mine where conceived and built. I had some very skilled help to execute it, but the design is mine. These are an entrance to the front pasture, not the yard, so they may be a little small. It's definitely wise to consider future equipment that may need to enter your yard.

Fab-ing the gate hardware was my excuse to buy my welder, plasma cutter, and metal chop saw!! They've seen little use since, but the rudimentary metal skills I learned that week were great. I'd been waiting a long time to try that, and they'll get lots of use here soon.

I really like the thought of wood/rock/wrought iron together. I think that's a truly timeless look that will never be 'out of style'. Cultured stone would make a very nice option.

Lighting, a gate opener, and security are also considerations. Lighting can be LED solar. Some openers can be solar. Security/intercom can be wireless in many situations. Please don't add any motorized 'features'....!!! I can just see the galloping team of wrought iron silouhettes..... uuggghhh!!

Having said that, a trenched 110v along with wires for security would be best.

We built it on the ground, and erected it. I'm trying to find pics of how we did it, but maybe it's better I don't, to avoid scolding from the safety police.... There was my 4720 and a CAT 303 mini-hoe involved, both absolutely maxed in terms of reach. I picker-truck or zoom-boom would've been much better, but we made 'er work!!

The ground there is very 'compactable' so they're only 4' down. We jumping-jacked the crap out of the hole in several layers as we backfilled. In regular soil it should 1/3 of total height in the ground - so I'm told.

Big posts that aren't just tele poles can be hard to find. Look for sawmills or pressure treaters in your area. Ken Chaluk near Edson AB was fantastic for us.

The metal was just plate, sucker rod (the dowel rods), and 7" pipe that I chopped up into the rings. I used ready-rod to make the adjustable part of the upper hinges.

You'll need some tools - chainsaw, LONG boring bits - maybe an extension, forstner bit, 1/2" drill with lotsa power, chisels, etc.

DIAL BEFORE YOU DIG!!

After you have a gate, they you need a rustic, yet elegant, sign to label your 'ranch'. Either a unique handle, or a family name. I was going to get a friend with a waterjet table to do mine and hang it from the horizontal part. The Hinton place is to be the "Grand Trunk Ranch"..... The CN Mainline is about 50' from my property line. That section of it used to be the Grand Trunk Pacific when the Railroad was making it's way across Canada. My neighbor's place is the "Iron Horse Ranch".

Take lots of time, take pics of ones you like, plan it out (that'll force you to remember high school trig, uuggghh, it made my head hurt), find the materials you want, be safe, and have some fun!! I'm planning on building some in Regina. I'd like to use Timberframe style this go round, but we'll see. The pic below shot through the chainlink is a gate that was custom built by a timberframe builder in Black Diamond. The fancy timberframe building is the Iron Goat Pub in Canmore - just put it in as an example of what I'm thinking with the wood, rock, and iron. That was built by Sterling Timberframes in Canmore (excellent builder).

I'd definitely need skilled help for that!! Any takers....?? Beer will be free, as will steaks, and maybe some Rider tickets.....

-Jer.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

I like wood entrances too.

 

[Avadon]

Good info, Avadon, welcome to the site.

Thanks for having me. I'm sure this thread will keep coming up in google searches and the info I found may be of use to others. It took me a while to collect it in from several sources. In Spring I hope to start my own ranch entrance. :drool: Should be awesome when it's completed. :thumbsup:

 

[Avadon]

One thing, which may be obvious, that I forgot to say in my original post, is find a place to purchase your logs or obtain them legally. In some areas if you cut down a tree over a certain diameter you can get an enormous fine (in the thousands) so before you go fall a tree on any land you don't own, really look into it.

Anyone have any good links for pouring footings?

About the best I found so far was this

Post and Beam Foundations

 

[Avadon]

Can anyone here tell me why this is poured this way?

Wouldn't it be better to bring that concrete footing up to the soil line so you just have one massive rectangular pillar under the soil and then the smaller pillar coming out of that.

Also when they say crushed rock or concrete.. isn't the best thing concrete with crushed up rocks in it.. so as to not use as much concrete in the pour.


I also was under the impression that cinder blocks are less strong than pouring a concrete form that is reinforced with rebar and may have crushed rock also in it.

 

[Kyle241]

I like that first pic in your first post (Avadon). It appears to be the entrance to a vineyard. I would like to do something like you're doing but don't have the expertise nor tools to the metal work. I would like to try to do something next summer to the entrance of the drive so I have time to plan. I wouldn't mind seeing your progress if you can post pics along the way.

 

[aczlan]

Can anyone here tell me why this is poured this way?
Wouldn't it be better to bring that concrete footing up to the soil line so you just have one massive rectangular pillar under the soil and then the smaller pillar coming out of that.

That design will resist being pulled up and out of the ground MUCH better than a single massive pillar would.

Aaron Z

 

[beppington]

Can anyone here tell me why this is poured this way?

Wouldn't it be better to bring that concrete footing up to the soil line so you just have one massive rectangular pillar under the soil and then the smaller pillar coming out of that.

Also when they say crushed rock or concrete.. isn't the best thing concrete with crushed up rocks in it.. so as to not use as much concrete in the pour.


I also was under the impression that cinder blocks are less strong than pouring a concrete form that is reinforced with rebar and may have crushed rock also in it.

That's the way tower bases & guy anchor foundations (called "deadmen") are done. You're utilizing good ol' dirt (free!, already on site) to help secure the foundation, adding weight on top of it:

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

I am the one that originally started this thread in 2007. Since that time I did complete my entrance. The picture shows how it turned out. It is not nearly as elaborate as the ones shown in other posts in the thread, however it did turn out to have the look I wanted and cost me virtually no money. It is made from cedar trees cut on the farm. I also made the gates. That did cost a little but not too much, less than cheap metal farm gates and much better looking I think.

I posted a thread that had pictures of the construction and erection process. The erection turned out to be a bit of an ordeal given that I only used front end loaders and two tractors. Everything worked out OK with no damage to people or equipment. I would link to that thread, but I don't know how to search it out. Anyway here's the pic.

 

[Kyle241]

I am the one that originally started this thread in 2007. Since that time I did complete my entrance. The picture shows how it turned out. It is not nearly as elaborate as the ones shown in other posts in the thread, however it did turn out to have the look I wanted and cost me virtually no money. It is made from cedar trees cut on the farm. I also made the gates. That did cost a little but not too much, less than cheap metal farm gates and much better looking I think.

I posted a thread that had pictures of the construction and erection process. The erection turned out to be a bit of an ordeal given that I only used front end loaders and two tractors. Everything worked out OK with no damage to people or equipment. I would link to that thread, but I don't know how to search it out. Anyway here's the pic.

Jerry, nice entrance! There is nothing like using what you have to make something. I like the gates as well, wish I could have something like that up here but snow will be a hassle in winter.