Ram1500 EcoDiesel V6 revealed!

[sd455dan]

Not sure about the newer ones, but my '96 2500 with dana 60 is the same as the 1500's. There is a vacuum switch in the transfer case that engages a sliding "coupler" that disengages the right side axle shaft. Shoot, my '91 dakota with ifs had a very similar system... had to change the vacuum switch ($35 iirc) and it looked like the same part used on my ram.

I am almost sure that when they changed the trucks (2500-3500) to AAM axles and the manual or electrically shifted transfer case- (New Process 273) they got rid of unlocking front hubs altogether - so no hubs to fail and no (axle disconnect ) just a transfer case front drive line engaged or disengaged mode.

 

[Heywood Jannockitov]

Not sure about the newer ones, but my '96 2500 with dana 60 is the same as the 1500's. There is a vacuum switch in the transfer case that engages a sliding "coupler" that disengages the right side axle shaft. Shoot, my '91 dakota with ifs had a very similar system... had to change the vacuum switch ($35 iirc) and it looked like the same part used on my ram.

Yeah, the vacuum actuator on the axle is what I just had to buy online - cheapest was $70.00 US but I had to pay a bit more from another supplier that would ship to Canada. I think the CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) design is superior to the complex and expensive locking hubs. Your Dakota probably had a Dana 44 which is similar to the Dana 60. These are not exclusive to Dodge, but many brands, Ford, Chev, Jeep have used Dana axles over the years. I like the design as there seems to be less to go wrong. Either vacuum leaks or the shaft inside the actuator binds preventing the fork from moving the sliding collar to couple the center (intermediate) axle to the outer passenger-side axle. It takes about a half-hour to replace the $70 dollar vacuum actuator, assuming there aren't other problems elsewhere. Some people consider the vacuum system failure-prone, but I got 19 years out mine and in my case was not expensive to repair. There is however, a nice retrofit where you can convert this vacuum actuator motor to manual cable actuated (Posi-Lok). You engage the front axle manually from a pull cable in the cab. The nice added benefit is you can have 2wd LOW.

 

[DeereMann]

I used to be a manual Warn locking hub man, running with the big Dana 60 'dump truck' axles. Jumping out to lock hubs when running into a snow squall was a normal thing up here.

Being older now (much so), I like the cab-actuated front axle. Unsure what I have, I haven't crawled underneath to look.

2012 Ram Half Ton 4x4.

 

[tcartwri]

I remember the awful electric hubs they used to have on the Explorers. The first time you put any real power through them they would fail.

 

[fordmantpw]

I remember the awful electric hubs they used to have on the Explorers. The first time you put any real power through them they would fail.

Yeah, they were plastic. I had them on my '86 Bronco II and went through several sets. Don't change directions very quickly when in 4x4 or you would snap the tips off the hub engagement mechanism. Very crappy system!

 

[Midniteoyl]

Yeah, it was a tough call, spend the $85 bucks or have it hauled off to the crusher.

View attachment 359316View attachment 359317

My "Eco diesel!"

TRhats gotta be one of the nicest mid-'90s Rams I have seen :thumbsup:

 

[Heywood Jannockitov]

TRhats gotta be one of the nicest mid-'90s Rams I have seen :thumbsup:

Why thank you! I bought it new and the longer I keep it the happier I am that I resisted the urge to replace it over the years as the new diesels got progressively more complex, powerful (beyond my requirements), thirstier and arguably less reliable due to added emissions. Even this new Ram Eco Diesel has more horsepower! Instead, I decided to give the '95 a refresh as a far cheaper alternative to replacement. Complete new oem quality fenders, front and rear (not a patch job), paint and assorted other stuff such as all new brake lines, tailpipe, grille, headlamps, taillight assys, headliner, carpet, upholstery repair to driver's seat etc. It's like a new truck again! Still original clutch, about 250K kilometres on it now. Can you consider keeping an older vehicle as eco-friendly too? Saved building one less new truck!

 

[terryknight]

You are speaking of ease of maintenance and I agree that some of the newer stuff is more difficult to get to some parts that need replaced. One nice thing about new is my $15 scan obd2 tool will tell me exactly what the problem is 90% of the time.

My point about reliability was on comparing the actual number of breakdowns. I have noticed less problems from my new vehicles verse 20 years ago when they too were new.

that would be nice, i always have to borrow my mechanic friends scanner, though to be fair i've only had to do it three times on 6 trucks in 8 years

wouldn't know i've never had anything new (save for my tractor). bit i can believe it

This has a lever on the floor to shift the transfer case and vacuum line to the middle of the axle (more or less) which (as I understand it) moves something inside the axle (in the diff itself?) to engage the 4wd, but it does not have hubs that unlock, so the ujoints at the wheels are always spinning.

never liked this set up even though it was designed this way

I think that it was closer to $2000 than $1000, but it would have been a decent deal if he had bothered to call me and say "these ujoints look iffy, should I replace them while I am in here?" I would have said yes in a heartbeat.
As it was we spent a fair amount at another shop (not sure how much, my FIL got the bill) to redo the same work within 3-4 months when one of the ujoints fell apart.

considering the nit bearing hubs are $350 a piece they are expensive trucks. and it would have been nice for the mechanic to tell you about the u joints when he was in there

I am almost sure that when they changed the trucks (2500-3500) to AAM axles and the manual or electrically shifted transfer case- (New Process 273) they got rid of unlocking front hubs altogether - so no hubs to fail and no (axle disconnect ) just a transfer case front drive line engaged or disengaged mode.

they switched in 03 with the redesign. and the earlier dodges from 94 did away with locking hubs

I used to be a manual Warn locking hub man, running with the big Dana 60 'dump truck' axles. Jumping out to lock hubs when running into a snow squall was a normal thing up here.

personally i think this is the best system

Why thank you! I bought it new and the longer I keep it the happier I am that I resisted the urge to replace it over the years as the new diesels got progressively more complex, powerful (beyond my requirements), thirstier and arguably less reliable due to added emissions. Even this new Ram Eco Diesel has more horsepower! Instead, I decided to give the '95 a refresh as a far cheaper alternative to replacement. Complete new oem quality fenders, front and rear (not a patch job), paint and assorted other stuff such as all new brake lines, tailpipe, grille, headlamps, taillight assys, headliner, carpet, upholstery repair to driver's seat etc. It's like a new truck again! Still original clutch, about 250K kilometres on it now. Can you consider keeping an older vehicle as eco-friendly too? Saved building one less new truck!

amen. simpler, better MPGs. and i would consider it eco friendly, using less fuel and one less truck in the JY

 

[buickanddeere]

i am one. my trucks are a 94 and a 97. i have no fear of working on them and i can fix anything that is fixable on the side of the road, no pulling of cabs needed. i have always carried a toolbox with and will continue to do so. some people might think i'm crazy, but my tucks get better MPGs than the current offerings, are paid for, and are simpler, sure little things break but hey it's 17 or 20 year old truck and still cheaper than a new one.



someone earlier in this thread mentioned that a light vehicle should last at least 7 years, i think you should be able to get good if not great use out of them for 20+ years

as fr the Diesel ram I would like to see it succeed, but i'm very scared for diesel in the US. gas makes more sense to me on a new truck even using it the way i do

Is there salt used on Maryland roads ?

 

[wmonroe]

Yeah, it was a tough call, spend the $85 bucks or have it hauled off to the crusher. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=359316"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=359317"/> My "Eco diesel!"

Nice truck, add me to the list that is looking for a 12 valve in good shape. Unfortunately with the amount of salt used around here good shape is very hard to find.