Radiator Screen cleaning

   / Radiator Screen cleaning #1  

Momboy007

Silver Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2003
Messages
165
Location
San Diego
Tractor
Jinma 304
Hello All,
I need to remove my Radiator screen, located just in front of my radiator on my Jinma 304.
Do I need to remove the air cleaner snorkel to do this. It is directly above the left hand side of the screen?
Thanks,
Rick
 
   / Radiator Screen cleaning #2  
It should have a handle on the top edge. Pull straight up to remove screen. It should slide right out. It's useless anyway, too coarse. I took mine out and kept it out, replacing it with a disposible furnace filter from WalMart

//greg//
 
   / Radiator Screen cleaning
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Hey Greg,
It does have a handle but hits on the air cleaner snorkel when I try to lift it up, I think I might have to take the snorkel off (the 3 inch pipe that runs from the air cleaner into the motor) in order to get it out.
How do I install a filter like you did? Does it go right into the slot?
Thanks,
Rick
 
   / Radiator Screen cleaning #4  
Rick,
Yes, remove the air intake snorkle where it attaches to the air filter canister and it should slide straight up and out.

While it is out, make sure that none of the holes in the screen are not covered/filled with paint.

While it is out, inspect the radiator fins [behind screen] to see if they are clear also.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
 
   / Radiator Screen cleaning #5  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It does have a handle but hits on the air cleaner snorkel when I try to lift it up, I think I might have to take the snorkel off (the 3 inch pipe that runs from the air cleaner into the motor) in order to get it out. How do I install a filter like you did? Does it go right into the slot?)</font>

The breather housing will rotate so that you can get that "snorkel" out of the way. I rotated mine to remote the fresh air intake to a location alongside the fuel tank. Look for a nut/bolt to loosen on the non-opening end of the filter housing.

I got the filter material in the WalMart plumbing/heating supplies section. Initially I used one of the cheap cardboard framed furnace filters and cut it down to ~14"X16", or just small enough to fit INSIDE the metal screen rails. It was held in place just fine by the breather bracket. But the They're very delicate; can't be cleaned, and don't survive removal/reinstallation attempts. I've switched to the sturdier biogradeable filter sold in the same Walmart section. It's larger, has no cardboard frame, cuts with a scissors, and is stiff enough to stand alone by itself. Moisture resistant, and survives several installations and removals for cleaning. The one in the attachment is blue, the one I got is green. No difference that I can tell, except color.

//greg//
 

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   / Radiator Screen cleaning #6  
Greg,
That's a good idea. Curious ... have you noticed any running temperature difference with that filter addition?
 
   / Radiator Screen cleaning #7  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It does have a handle but hits on the air cleaner snorkel when I try to lift it up)</font>

You should be able to loosen the clamps that hold the air filter cannister to its support frame and rotate/slide the filter slightly to clear the radiator screen as Greg mentioned. I could always remove my screen by just pulling on the handle, but it was a close fit.

I didn't like the airfilter placement up in front of the radiator as it made access to the screen difficult and it disrupts airflow into the radiator. One of the first modifications I did to my 284 was to relocate my airfilter back over the injector pump. It now connects to the intake manifold with a 4" long straight piece of hose. The mounting bracket I made that connects to where the fuel filter is mounted also made a handy mounting point for the coolant overflow/recovery tank I added. The whole affair is removed with a single bolt and a single hoseclamp if I need to work around the top of the engine or the injectors. I then removed the support bracket from in front of the radiator so there is nothing but hood and grill in front of it now.

I took the stock screen which as mentioned has holes that are too large to stop the small stuff, and wraped a layer of aluminum window screen around it. This screen is available at most any hardware store. This screen catches a LOT of debris and still allows the whole assembly to slide down in the grooves in front of the radiator. I opted to do this and keep the stock screen/filter plate as it is pretty heavy and will protect the radiator somewhat if I should somehow push a stick in through the grill or up under the hood when brush busting.

I also made a air gun extension pipe for cleaning the radiator. For this I used a piece of aluminum arrow shaft. The nock end is tapered/rounded where the nock glues on. You can get one of these at wallmart or anyplace that sells archery equipment. Soften the nock with a lighter or small flame and pull it off with a pair of pliars and shave off the fletching/feathers with a razor blade. Cut the front end off with a tube cutter or a hacksaw. Right near the tapered nock end I drilled a 1/8" hole perpendicular to the shaft. and I slid the whole thing over an old straight blowgun tip I had and epoxied it in place. I can slide this tube down behind the radiator through 2 small gaps in the rear shroud located at the top rear corners of the radiator. Because of the smooth rounded tapered end, it won't hang up on and damage the rear radiator cooling fins. This pipe allows me to reach the entire rear surface of the radiator to blow dust and debris out from the back side(instead of packing an already jammed piece in tighter while blowing from the front:).

No mater what you put on for a filter, if it flows enough air to keep the engine cool, it will still pass fine dust. You will always have a buildup of fine dust in the radiator passages that must be removed occasionaly to maintain heat exchanger efficiency.
 
   / Radiator Screen cleaning #8  
[quote} Greg,That's a good idea. Curious ... have you noticed any running temperature difference with that filter addition? )</font>

Absolutely none. After flushing radiator and block, changing thermostat and gasket, changing pressure cap, upgrading hoses and clamps, remoting the fresh air intake, and putting filter in front of radiator - temp gauge finally ran rock solid 80C twelve months of the year. That was on the 200 series Jinmas I had. On the KAMA, radiator and block was pretty clean, hoses were of better quality, no problem with the OE thermostat. So all I found necessary was to get rid of the rusty radiator cap and put a piece of that heavy duty WalMart filter in front of the radiator. Same thing; rock solid 80C working temp every day of the year.

One of those heavy duty WalMart filters like I described above lasts about a year, and I can cut two filters for my KAMA out of one WalMart filter. You might be able to get three for a 200 series Jinma.

//greg//
 
   / Radiator Screen cleaning #9  
Greg G,

I thought your idea was good as well. I had an old "cut to Fit" from my heating system. It's the same materail I belive, blue green fiber. As I tried to get in, I noticed I have some clearence issues. Th aircleaner housing is about 3/8" a way from the radiator. Also the frame that holds the air cleaner is about 1/2" a way. Did you make any changes/modifications? I even used a pc of card board to face the radiator fins to protect them.

The 'cut to fit filter' is 3/4 to 1" thick

Can you get this material thinner?

patrick
 
   / Radiator Screen cleaning #10  
I just moved the breather housing bracket forward about half an inch Patrick. Mine had enough slop in the bolt holes I guess. Now there's clearance to slide the filter behind, but it's still tight enough to hold it in place.

//greg//
 

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