Radiator cap is way NASTY!

[Momboy007]

Hello All,
I was bush hogging yesterday and before I started I checked all the fluids. When I checked the radiator, I noticed the fluid (anti-Freeze looked good, but the actual radiator cap was really nasty with rust and junk, should I replace it?
Rick

 

[Bob Rooks]

Sounds to me like it's way past time for a good chemical flush of the cooling system. Ever done that? Cap should be fine if it pressure tests good and is cleaned up.
What year is & how many hours on your tractor?

 

[greg_g]

, but the actual radiator cap was really nasty with rust and junk, should I replace it?

Yes - replace it. The chunks of rust on the rubber gasket make for an imperfect seal. I've seen them look like that on tractors right off the boat. And if you've never flushed it - do that too.

But be careful what you buy. There may be a number stamped on the cap - it's a metric pressure rating. All four of mine have been in the 3-5 psi range. I've found aftermarket caps that fit properly, but none lower than 7 psi. Having said that, those same 7 psi caps have never caused a problem.

//greg//

 

[Momboy007]

Hello All,
Thanks for the great advice, now, what is the best way to flush? and do you think NAPA Auto would have a replacement cap?

Also, When I bought the tractor, I flushed all the oils, but never did I do the radiator, it looked like good clear anti-freeze, little did I know. The tractor was produced in 2004 and has about 140 Hrs on it currently.
Thanks,
Rick

 

[greg_g]

NAPA/Advance/AutoZone/O'Rielly's all should - farm stores too. The ones on mine were all just standard tractor radiator caps. Just shop around till you find a 7 psi (or less) that fits.

//greg//

 

[Momboy007]

Thanks Greg, I will do that ASAP,
How about a flush, what do you recommend?
Thanks in advance,
Rick

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Hello All,
I was bush hogging yesterday and before I started I checked all the fluids. When I checked the radiator, I noticed the fluid (anti-Freeze looked good, but the actual radiator cap was really nasty with rust and junk, should I replace it?
Rick

I have seen / found / find the steel parts of the cap rusty straight from the factory / crate on some. From what I have seen .... the factory runs straight water.

It would be good to replace it to be safe ..... it may cause it to stick.


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[Affordable]

We keep the OEM radiator caps in stock if you want one,I agree with Ronald some of these caps are rusty when we get the tractors

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

Thanks Greg, I will do that ASAP,
How about a flush, what do you recommend?
Thanks in advance,
Rick

It's not like renovating an old engine, so any auto parts store cooling system cleaner will do. All it has to do is flush out the rust and slime that collected between the manufacturing plant and you. Watch what comes out though, you may want to flush a second time.

//greg//

 

[mffarmall]

I just flushed out my radiator because it only cost a bottle of antifreeze and I wanted to make sure that it was done. I found that after flushing out the old fluid it checked out to be at a good level. I just flushed with water and ran the engine for a few minutes. The rust was thick for about 3L then it ran clear. I need to use a flush but with only 100 hours it can wait. Don't forget to drain the engine plug also. It hold about 1/4 a gallon. I like that one bottle of antifreeze put in then filling up the same bottle with water is close to the right amount of fluids (a little less water) so it adds up to about 53% anti and 47% water. Works good.
When I use a flush I like to make sure to really clean out the system with water first then the flush can work on what the water could not get. After I like to really flood it with water to clean out the flush.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Has anybody mentioned SCA's for the jacket water, or should we go there? I don't want to confuse anyone.

 

[Soundguy]

NAPA/Advance/AutoZone/O'Rielly's all should - farm stores too. The ones on mine were all just standard tractor radiator caps. Just shop around till you find a 7 psi (or less) that fits.

//greg//

Pressure caps from ford 2n's and ford 8n's are 4 psi caps... that help any?

cheap at TSC...

soundguy

 

[GuglioLS]

Momboy007 -
Here is the complete procedure you seek. I wrote this up years ago and will share it here for anyone interested in a comprehensive procedure....

The lower radiator hose on my 2005 Jinma 354 with 3 cylinder TY395 engine developed a leak. So I figured I better take care of it right away. Upon removed the radiator cap it (the cap) was all rusty and did not look so good. I removed the top and bottom radiator hoses and took them and the cap to NAPA auto parts to match up everything the best I could. I also picked up a bottle of Radiator flush and some new coolant.
Here is what the rad cap looked like next to the new NAPA 7031418 which is a perfect fit, it is a 7 psi cap with Brass innards so it will not rust.



______________________________________________________________
I drained the two year old coolant into a bucket Then flushed the crap (literally) out of the radiator and engine block with what seems like 100 gallons of fresh clean water. After replacing the hoses I added 2 gallons of water and the radiator flush solution. Then ran the tractor for about 1/2 hour smoothing out some ruts left over from this past winter. The flush solution was then drained out, see what came out -



Pretty nasty - so I flushed it again until the water was coming out clear. When draining the coolant do not be fooled by the condition of what initially comes out. It pays to use a good cooling system flush solution every two years to dissolve all the deposits that form inside the system.

Larry
____________________________________________________________

Back to the hose replacement:
I found a 90* NAPA hose (#8484) to replace the lower one that was leaking. I cut it off to fit.



Here it is installed and no longer leaking:

Larry
_______________________________________________________________
I figured as long as I was going to fix the lower hose, flush and fill, I might as well replace the top hose too. Chinese rubber is total crap. Here is the Upper hose cut from a section of NAPA hose #9288. It took an hour searching through thousands of hoses to find one close that could be cut to fit.



Here it is installed along side my brand new non rusty seven pound pressure radiator cap



Larry
_____________________________________________________________
Last but not least, is to fill with the PROPER coolant in the proper dilution. Most, if not all Diesel engines are wet sleeved and MUST use SCA Coolant. DO NOT USE automotive antifreeze in a diesel engine. (SCA= Supplemental Cooling Additive)
Fleet Charge Specifications Sheet



I sure am glad that hose was leaking as it caused me to perform a radiator flush that was badly needed.
Maybe it's time to check your coolant, radiator cap, flush and fill your cooling system, then fill with fresh Fleet Charged (SCA)Antifreeze?

Larry

 

[Momboy007]

Larry,
Great, great write up (which is very typical of you) but I do have more questions for you, how do you flush it exactly, what I mean by this is do you keep the motor running and just keep the petcock open, is it done under pressure? also, how, where do you drain and flush the block?
Thanks again for all the great advice
Rick

 

[GuglioLS]

1.Remove radiator cap.

2. Drain existing coolant out of radiator petcock into a container that can be sealed. Radiator petcock is located on lower right hand side of radiator. The right hand side of the radiator is that side as viewed when setting in the tractor seat facing forward.

3. Drain coolant out of engine block into a container that can be sealed. The engine block drain is located on the left hand side of the engine toward the rear of the oil filter, there is a valve with a rubber tube attached to it. After all fluid drains, seal the containers and set inside a safe location where no child, mentally challenged person, or animal can get to it.

4 Leave the two valves open (radiator petcock and engine block valve)

5. Radiator cap should still be removed, insert a garden hose into opening of radiator

6. Turn on water to hose.

7. Keep water on hose until the water coming out of the radiator and engine block is clear (pre flushing)

8. Close off the engine block valve and the radiator petcock.

9. When water in the radiator is near the top, turn off the water going to the hose, remove hose, pour in the radiator flush solution that you already purchased from an auto parts store.

10. Install radiator cap.

11. Start tractor, let warm up for at least 10 minutes or follow the directions on the container of the flushing solution.

12. Turn off tractor, wait 5 minutes, then drain, following steps 1,2 and 3 from above.

13. Close all valves, fill the radiator with a mixture of 50% SCA fleet charge antifreeze and 50% Distilled water purchased from quickie mart, 7 to 11, wal-mart or other store that sells distilled water. Do not use tap water as it contains high levels of sodium, calcium, potassium and other contaminates not suitable to be inside an engine cooling system.

14. re-install radiator cap, run engine until it comes up to operating temperature, turn off engine, wait until it cools completely, remove radiator cap, then top off fluid, again with 50% SCA anti freeze and 50% distilled water.

15. Take the old antifreeze to a Quick Lube, Jiffy Lube or other quick automotive oil change business for proper disposal.


Larry

 

[Momboy007]

Hello Again Larry or anyone else that can help,
I found both my drains after you explained where they were Larry, but I have one problem, My petcock will not open as it has a about 1.5" handle attached to it (for levereage to loosen the petcock, I would guess) and it will not turn but only a 1/8" because it hits the radiator, any ideas how to get around this?

Thanks again all and Larry,
Rick

 

[3RRL]

Rick,
Since it's not gonna be something you do everyday, I'd consider cutting the handle down so it misses the radiator. Use pliers or vice grips to start it and use your fingers after that.
Reverse procedure to tighten.

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

My petcock will not open as it has a about 1.5" handle attached to it (for levereage to loosen the petcock, I would guess) and it will not turn but only a 1/8" because it hits the radiator, any ideas how to get around this?

Thanks again all and Larry,
Rick

It could be stoped up.


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[GuglioLS]

Hello Again Larry or anyone else that can help,
I found both my drains after you explained where they were Larry, but I have one problem, My petcock will not open as it has a about 1.5" handle attached to it (for levereage to loosen the petcock, I would guess) and it will not turn but only a 1/8" because it hits the radiator, any ideas how to get around this?

Thanks again all and Larry,
Rick

Rick,

In which direction are you turning to open the petcock? clockwise or counter clockwise? I could be wrong but I think normal petcocks open when you turn them in, i.e. CCW (sounds back-wards, it messes me up all the time) The threads on the inner part of the valve are normally left hand thread so when it's turned CCW the valve stem actually screws in toward the radiator, which should INCREASE your clearance. There is no telling how the Chinese made there version of a radiator petcock, so take a close look at it to determine if you need to turn it CW or CCW. I just checked mine and it has a 1/4 turn ball valve as opposed to a petcock, so I can't help other than the tips I mentioned above.

Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

Rick,

After further thought, does your radiator have a petcock or a 1/4 turn ball valve? If it's like mine (1/4 turn ball valve) turn the valve handle 1/4 turn clockwise so that the valve handle does not hit the radiator, that's how mine works. If I were to try and turn that valve handle CCW it would hit the radiator just as you describe.

Larry