Snow Blade Quick attach hydraulic snow blade temp modification

[RNeumann]

On a side note, I was saddened to find out later in my career that firemen refer to cops as blue canaries. Perhaps you are aware of the story behind this?

Anyway, I found a small blue glass canary in an antique store some years later and it now sits proudly on my mantel as a reminder..... Said with a smile on my face of course so no hard feelings. ;p)

No way I would ever say that- Way to much respect for your profession! With all the BS out there now it's a near impossible job with little satisfaction. I'm smiling thinking about that on your mantel- hopefully a little reminder of the good times. I have a lot of great friends in LE- most retired now.

 

[LD1]

OP was asking for a temporary solution to "lock" the blade with the cylinder. Blocking the flow of fluid from one side of the piston to the other would do that - no? The hope would be a hose would fail before the cylinder, if the blade impacted something, which is why just capping the cylinder wasn't recommended.

The hoses you have are fine. Didn't realize you already had hoses.

Of course having the pillow valve is best. The easiest way to set this up is with two equal sized cylinders which allows the "relief" to flow from one cylinder to the other.

The plumbing would be more complex with one cylinder as you would need a way to add and subtract fluid from the cylinder side of the control valve. OP states he has one cylinder though.

I think (hope) we all understand this setup isn't ideal. I'm assuming OP needs or wants to move some snow ASAP and understands the risks.

If all he wants to do is hold the blade in position, then yes blocking flow would work. But why would need to buy a valve. I am assuming there will be couplers on the hoses for eventual tie-in to the tractor. You dont need a valve, just the coupler will block flow.

But I was under the impression , by the way he wanted to connect the hoses together with a valve, that he was thinking he could simply open the valve, angle the blade, and close the valve again. Which is not possible.

And yes, you "can" protect a single acting circuit, but not with a "crossover valve". Each port would need a pressure relief AND a return line tee'd back into a tank line. So you would need to add a third hose running up front (which can then be tee'd or split) to pick up the return ports of the pressure relief valves.

 

[Stonehaller]

And yes, you "can" protect a single acting circuit, but not with a "crossover valve". Each port would need a pressure relief AND a return line tee'd back into a tank line. So you would need to add a third hose running up front (which can then be tee'd or split) to pick up the return ports of the pressure relief valves.

In my haste this morning, I missed that there was a single cylinder. So unless it is a double ended cylinder, you are correct that the cross over relief and ball valve I suggested will not work.

But I was under the impression , by the way he wanted to connect the hoses together with a valve, that he was thinking he could simply open the valve, angle the blade, and close the valve again. Which is not possible.

One way to make that work is to pipe each port together with a valve to a reservoir teed in the line. He could open the valve, move the blade by hand and then close the valve to lock the cylinder. The reservoir would make up the volume difference between the two sides of the cylinder. If he wanted overload protection, then he would need port reliefs with anti-cavitation checks.

 

[Fallon]

I think the short answer is get the remotes on your tractor. ;-)

That will work & you won't have to mess with all these half *** solutions that will take time & money (unless you have hoses, valves & resevores sitting around) to implement.

 

[LD1]

I think the short answer is get the remotes on your tractor. ;-)

That will work & you won't have to mess with all these half *** solutions that will take time & money (unless you have hoses, valves & resevores sitting around) to implement.

Agreed