Questions and problems with my DK55C, KB2485, and KL551

[Pete Lawrence]

First let me say hello to all. This is a great site for information. I've found many posts helpful. As to my problems and questions....

I've had my DK55C for just about a year now and have about 150 hours on the clock. It was purchased new with a KL551 FEL and a KB2485 BH.

At about 50 hours I managed to break the backhoe. The two pivot pins that the boom swings left and right on wore through to the point I couldn't get the locking pin in it's hole. And yes, I did grease those and all other joints often. The dealer replaced the pins and bushings under warranty so it wasn't a big deal. Just annoying that it took a couple weeks for the parts to come in.

My second problem with the backhoe was with the bolts where it attaches to the gray mounting frame would not stay tight. After discussing my options with the dealer we came to an agreement and he welded the bolted joints. Problem solved. Here are some pictures of the weld points.

There are a couple more pictures in my photo gallery on this site if your interested.

Well those were my major problems with the backhoe. It still feels somewhat loose for lack of a better description, but is working fine now. The FEL is my question of the moment. Many of the pivot points seem to have an excessive amount of 'play' in them. Note the gap on the right side of the pin in the following picture.

The dealer says that's normal. I think it's a little to loose and allows the FEL to rack a bit to much if the load isn't balanced in the bucket. Nothing seems bent or otherwise out of the ordinary. Any opinions or comments on this?

 

[DK35vince]

I have a Rhino 85 backhoe with a similar subframe. I welded it in the same places for the same problem.

The play/gap in the loader cylinder photo looks average/normal to me.

 

[mark.r]

I have a similar gap on my KL401 loader so that one my dump cylinders moves back and forth. The other side does not so I assum it is normal. No backhoe so can't comment.

 

[DrRick]

I have the same gap on my dk55c. I also have the same type of slack on my john deere 410 tlb.

 

[farmboy238]

Can anyone tell me the thread size for the grease fittings on the 551 fel. The book says they are 1/8pt but that is not true. I took the damaged one to the auto place and he said it was a 10mm X 1.0 Thread so I bought Some. They go in about 2 rounds and bind up. The tractor dealer doesn't know what they are eather. I opened my bucket and it broke the level gauge barrel and that damaged the grease fitting behind it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Reg]

Without knowing what else was tried BEFORE resorting to welding things in place where bolts had previously loosened up, I would have tried some combinations of lock washers and FINER THREADS.

The space beside the bushing looks bad, but probably isn't.
If it worried me I might try getting a fat washer in there, but I doubt that it would worry me enough to mess with it.

 

[Coyote machine]

Spacing of cylinders in their brackets is normal- just keep it all greased to reduce excessive wear on the pins/bushings.
I might have used blue Locktite or drilled to place cotter pins through the hoe bolts instead of welding them- welding them just forces something else to break/give eventually, (possibly).

New guy re: zerks. Best to post your question that is off topic in a new thread next time Anyway, call your Kioti dealer and ask them to look up the correct zerks for the loader for your machine. These fittings have driven many nutz trying to figure out the right thread- just get dealer to find them for you in the parts listing.

 

[gkh7890]

PL,

I agree w/ CM on the zerks! I would call your dealer and have them order 2 sets for you (1 for now & 1 for . I think the thread size is 1.5 vs. the 1.0 you will find at the local stores.

My KL401 FEL is the same regarding the extra space.

 

[Kaw]

I have a woods bh on our dk55, the subframe bolts on tractor keep backing off also. Mount is different than yours.
Anyway, If I was going to weld anything, I would have welded the bolt head to the plate with a tac on two sides. Then you could have just ground off a little and still take bolts out. No way I would have welded like they did with yours.
With my issue I am letting dealer tell me what to do, or have him do it. Then its all on him.
Spacing looks fine on the fel. You dont see bare metal on both side, least I cant see it, paint looks to be still on.

 

[RickB]

Welding the subframe parts to the backhoe mainframe creates a permanent solution to a chronic problem common with just about all subframes similarly constructed. It would have been a little better to weld only on one side of each part, along one plane only. Then if the parts ever needed to be separated, the bolts could be removed and the subframe parts removed from the main backhoe frame in a twisting motion, breaking the welds after some initial grinding along the weld beads. Welding the bolts and or nuts to the parts would have been far less effective.