Questions about purchasing a skid steer

   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #1  

Lineman North Florida

Veteran Member
Joined
May 12, 2008
Messages
2,470
Location
LaCrosse Florida
Tractor
Farmtrac 360 DTC with FEL & John Deere 5093E with FEL ,Kubota SVL 75-2
I am on the verge of retiring and am interested in purchasing a used skid steer and front mounted mower and grapple for use around the farm and to possibly do some work for others as a side gig, I already have tractors and and equipment but am amazed at how much more things that can also be done with a skid steer with the right attachments. My main questions are what should I be looking out for when buying a used skid steer? How many hours are to many? Tracked unit verses tires? Any brands to stay away from? Will standard flow work or do I need to purchase one with high flow? Any assistance appreciated. Charlie.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Moderator after looking a little closer I believe I should have put this in the Skid steer section, could you move it for me if that is possible? Thank you.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #3  
Lineman just like anything else hours can be easy and they can be hard depending on the operator. Now at 2000+ it might be getting close for lines hydraulic starting to leak down in the "belly". If you're not under pressure with competing offers on a machine that your serious about, bring along a mechanic if you're questioning yourself.
I don't think I'm telling you anything that you don't know already. The SS / CTL question in my opinion is dependent on the ground conditions that you'll be operating on. I believe a lot of guys get the CTL just for the cool factor, I've read more than a few articles about the $8-$12/hour additional cost attributed to the track wear cost. Now if tracks make it useable where a SS would be sitting, that's a whole different story. I firmly believe that in the lighter operating weight machines, tracks become more important, mainly for stability. When you get up into the 2000+ pound (roc) machines, the wheelbase starts to get longer, that equals stability. The only (track) machine that I'd turn you away from for farm or personal use is the ASV or Cat's machine that uses the asv track system. Guys love them for the ride and I've heard a little better traction do to the unique design. But they are very parts and roller/idler/axles and seals "intensive" and come rebuild time, I know guys that just sell them off.
I do have a buddy that loves his Cat machines with the "multi terrain" I think it's called undercarriage (ASV based) but he's making a lot of money with it and is willing to pay the price.
I have a mower for my SS and it mostly sits, actually for years at a time. My tractor is a much better mower. I do have high flow but the mower is std flow. I have mid 20's gpm on my std flow so it's not a lack of hyd juice.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer
  • Thread Starter
#4  
RustyIron ,Thanks for the reply, I think with the places that I am going to have to go that tracks are going to be my best bet, and as you said hours can be hard or easy, I think it's a shot in the dark buying a used machine but hopefully I can find one that has been well maintained.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #5  
Everything I know about Skid Steers I got from watching Andrew Camarata.

Basically:

- Stay away from Bobcat
- Tracks (get a couple digging bars and a battery powered grease gun - buy grease by the case(s))
- Bigger be better.

All I got.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #6  
Stanley Dirt Monkey Channel can inform you quite a bit as his landscaping and snow clearing business based in the Twin cities goes through a lot of equipment.

Here is one of his videos.

 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #7  
Last fall, I bought my first skid steer. Its a 2015 Bobcat T550. It is a track machine and had about 2500 hours on it. I bought it from a rental company. So far, it has served my needs and I've put a little over 100 hours on it.

I paid $17,000 plus tax for it. I saw a very similar machine sell at auction a few weeks ago for $18,000. It was from the same rental place and had about the same hours.

I have mixed feelings about buying from a rental place. Yes, those machines get abused, but they are also properly maintained by the rental company, and they make the renters pay for repairs. Ask me how I know about that.

Mine gets used mostly for loading sand into a spreader for topdressing athletic fields. It is also nice to have around the shop for moving things around. It has a lot more lift capacity than my tractors.

I recently used a Kubota SVL 75 on another job, and after using that machine, I immediately began look at buying a Kubota. It's just a much nicer machine than the Bobcat. The joystick controls on the Kubota are much easier than the foot controls on the Bobcat. The Bobcat T550 is a very base model.

For my needs, the track machine seems to be a better fit than the tires.

Also, you need to look at a 'radial' lift vs. a 'vertical' lift. The basic difference between radial and vertical, is that at full height, the radial will be closer to the machine than the vertical. This can be an issue when loading a dump truck or something similar. Mine is a radial lift and I wish I had a vertical lift. Of course, the vertical lift cost more.

If I find a Kubota for a reasonable price, I will be selling my Bobcat.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #8  
Tracked will give you a rougher ride as there is no tire to cushion. Track also distributes weight better so if you are traveling across lawns, etc it is a must. Track is also more stable on flat and hilly terrain. Wheeled machine is best on compact, flat terrain you don’t mind tearing up (ie a build site, or a road). Track will cost you more of course. As far as implements get ready to pay more than you would for a 3PT version. Hydraulic implements are more expensive. They are also awesome. I recommend high flow just in case you grab something that will use it (mulcher, snow blower, etc).
 
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   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #9  
Unless you never plan to work off rock hard dirt get tracks. Wheels get stuck just about anywhere even remotely soft.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #10  
I am on the verge of retiring and am interested in purchasing a used skid steer and front mounted mower and grapple for use around the farm and to possibly do some work for others as a side gig, I already have tractors and and equipment but am amazed at how much more things that can also be done with a skid steer with the right attachments. My main questions are what should I be looking out for when buying a used skid steer? How many hours are to many? Tracked unit verses tires? Any brands to stay away from? Will standard flow work or do I need to purchase one with high flow? Any assistance appreciated. Charlie.
@Lineman North Florida I'm a little late to the party, but I'll address some of your questions that didn't get answered. I've been researching this topic for a number of months and am currently looking to buy a skid steer myself. The following is what I have pieced together by reading a lot and watching tons of youtube videos on the subject and this info is specific to smaller machines (e.g., skid steers and mini ex's) as larger ones have much longer lives.

What to look for (short version):

Blow-by - while the engine is running take the oil cap off and turn it over and set it on it's opening. It should not get blown off or around, if it does you have worn rings. Another test for this is to pull the dipstick and put a finger over the hole. You're feeling for pressure.

Leaks - hydraulic, oil, whatever, you shouldn't find any, bring a flashlight and crawl all over the machine. Lift the cab and do more looking.

Undercarriage - on a tracked machine, use the bucket (or a jack) to lift the machine off the ground as much as possible. Grab the roller wheels, they should spin easy, but not wobble.

Cold start the engine - it should smoke 10-15 seconds at most and then stop.

Check the hydraulics by using the bucket and arms to lift the machine, check the arms and bucket independently. As with a tractor, the arms and bucket should move smoothly. No jerky movements.

How many hours are too many:

You might as well ask, which oil is best. This answer is also somewhat brand, or at least engine maker, dependent. I have three friends that work on heavy machinery for a living, but they didn't agree on how many hours are too many. 4000 hours seems to be the area where most people agree a skid steer is starting to get old. That being said, Takeuchi has a reputation for better longevity, as do machines with Yanmar engines or the venerable Cummins 4b(t).

My goal, here, is to buy a machine with 1500-2500 hours and as new as possible. There are machines that are 25 years old with 1000 hours, which is great, but seals/o-rigs will be drying up at this point.
Also of concern is parts availability when you get older machines. I've asked around, here, and elsewhere about when do parts become hard to find and there's no real clear answer. A common theme is some brands, for example, bobcat, support their older machines better.

Tracks or tires:

Tires for use on pavement, demo work, or on rocks.

Tracked anywhere you need added traction (e.g., mud) or where you want less impact on the ground, such as on grass. Though tracks will tear up any surface if you're doing tight turns. Tracks for snow is hotly debated and appears to depend on the machine's suspension design and track pattern. ASV states that their suspension and track design adds greatly to traction during snow use.

As others mentioned, tracks add stability and cost.

Brands:

Each brand has had good units and bad units. The new DPF and DEF and other emissions requirements seem to be causing a lot of grief. I plan to avoid as many emissions as I can. As with tractors, having a good dealer w/ parts close is important. For example, while ASV is a good brand, the closest dealer to me is 3 hours away. Some brands, for example, Gehl have a large regional presence, but it's sparse in other areas.

I'll be buying 10-20 years old, so I plan to stick with Bobcat, John Deere, Cat, Case or Takeuchi.

High Flow:

If you can get high flow, do it. Most brush hogs I've looked at have a minimum flow rate of 16 gpm. There are a lot of machines at this flow rate, but a number of older machines dip to the 13-15 gpm area. While 16 gpm will run the brush hogs, but there will be a lot of waiting for the brush hog to spin up to speed if you're mowing thicker stuff, and a lot of other attachments, more is better. If you want to run a mulcher, definitely get high flow.

Yes, this is the short version. Hope it helps.

Oh, one last thing. Some older skid steers control the bucket and arms w/ foot controls, while others (and newer machines) use joystick controls. Totally user preference as to which is better, but try both, it may push you one direction or another.
 

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