Questions about JD's hydrostatic drives

[rtm038]

Hello everyone,
I'm in the market for a tractor and have narrowed my choices down to the New Holland T1110 or John Deere 2320 & 2520 machines. Well, I went and test-drove the T1110 today and while the overall tractor was very nice, I noticed that when completely letting off either the forward or reverse pedal, the tractor basically came to a dead stop. It was such an abrupt stop that I basically didn't need to use the brake pedal. Now, I plan on visiting a JD dealer next week to test drive the 2320 and 2520, but I was wondering if JD's HST drive systems act the same as the New Holland?

Thanks
Ryan

 

[mjncad]

Welcome to TBN, and yes, that is how hydrostatic drives work. The only time I use the brakes on mine is for parking the machine, or the individual rear wheel brakes for a tighter turning radius.

If you plan on doing a lot of loader work, the hydro is the way to go since it's easy to be precise in positioning the tractor, and less body movement is needed to change direction. I'm happy I went hydro, and this coming from a manual transmission fan for cars & trucks..

 

[rtm038]

I figured as much. It's definitely not a "deal breaker"- just curious if the systems were different. Thanks for the response.

Ryan

 

[B8FISH]

I don't believe that the "stop" time is adjustable on the 2320 and 2520--but it is on some (3x20) series machines--called the roll-out or something like that, you can make it an abrupt stop or gradual coasting stop.

 

[ScottK]

If you let your foot off the pedal slowly, it doesn't seem to stop abruptly. If you're moving along and lift your foot abruptly, then you will stop pretty abruptly - so don't do that. Just a matter of getting used to driving it I think.

 

[RalphVa]

My 4010 will roll on a hill if stopped in High range. Stops and stays stopped in Low range. This is with engine on or off.

Ralph

 

[ragkar]

Usually my 2320 will stop, but it will roll a bit on a hill. No problem, my auto reflexes and procedures take care of that.

 

[rtm038]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Since this will be my first tractor purchase, I have one other question. Can you haggle or negotiate the price like you do when buying a car?

Thanks
Ryan

 

[mjncad]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Since this will be my first tractor purchase, I have one other question. Can you haggle or negotiate the price like you do when buying a car?

Thanks
Ryan

Sure, I just doubt that tractor dealers have as much wiggle room on their pricing as car and truck dealers do. Remember, tractors are a niche market item.

However, the worst that the dealer can do is say no to haggling. And if the dealer is a jerk about your question on how negotiable the price is, then that gives you insight into how that dealership works.

Personally I hate haggling; but some people love it.

 

[ScottK]

If you request quotes through JD website, you will get competing quotes on the same machine. Also, if you can find one that has been on the lot for a while (maybe a 2007 model) you can get a better price. If you settle on a dealer, then try to get freebies or discounts on add-ons, like box blades and forks at the time of tractor purchase. Yes - most of them negotiate like car dealers, if even to keep you away from Kubota or New Holland.

 

[rtm038]

Sounds good everyone. Thanks for all the help.

Ryan

 

[ddivinia]

Hello everyone,
I'm in the market for a tractor and have narrowed my choices down to the New Holland T1110 or John Deere 2320 & 2520 machines. Well, I went and test-drove the T1110 today and while the overall tractor was very nice, I noticed that when completely letting off either the forward or reverse pedal, the tractor basically came to a dead stop. It was such an abrupt stop that I basically didn't need to use the brake pedal. Now, I plan on visiting a JD dealer next week to test drive the 2320 and 2520, but I was wondering if JD's HST drive systems act the same as the New Holland?

Thanks
Ryan

I almost never use the brakes on my 4720 - I use the e-hydro to control my braking. If you let off the pedals slow and smooth - it will come to a stop in the same manner.

Haggle away - depending ont he dealer, they might be shooting you the best price right off the bat or they might not be. I would for sure shop it and usually if you are new to the dealer - it is best to wait a day or so, it always seems to get cheaper once you leave the lot.

D.

 

[Greyfields]

I can probably count on one hand the number of times I've used the brack pedals on the 4120 with HST. I imagine the brakes will be good for about 50 years.

It's the one thing that keeps me from upgrading to a larger machine. The HST is so much easier to use than even the power reverser.

 

[flyngti]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Since this will be my first tractor purchase, I have one other question. Can you haggle or negotiate the price like you do when buying a car?

If there are several JD dealers near you, get a quote from each. This will help in your negotiations. When I was shopping, I found that some dealers were willing to "meet or beat" in pricing. However, go with the dealer that seems the most reputable and see if they will match the low quote--it certainly doesn't hurt to ask.

 

[hemiguy]

Hi rtm038,

Wow, I see you joined TBN in 2004 but are just now looking to purchase your first tractor. That may be a record.

First on the subject of haggling, YES by all means. Call it negotiation if you want to use a better word. More than pitting the JD dealers against each other or the NH against themselves, try to remember what pros you like about each competing brand and use that when talking to the other brand's salesman. Such as to JD sales guy "the 2520 is a nice tractor, but I really like (blah blah) on the NH1110". They really hate to loose sales to competing brands. Its all about market share. Heck, in my area 5 of the 6 JD dealers all have the same owner so they don't play those games with each other, but talk about liking a blue or orange tractor and they tense up a bit. I got about $4000 off list on my 2520 TLB combo this way.

As to your orginal question on hydro operation, yes the 2320/2520 will behave the same as the NH. They have a simple mechanically controlled hydro. As others have mentioned the bigger 3000/4000 Deere's have E-hydro which is micro-computer controlled. Its probably nice to use, but to me, its just more to go wrong as the tractor gets older. And yes, Hydro is the way to go for frequent loader work. Also you will want to use the brakes when on slopes, unloading from a trailer, or similar places. Finally, if you test a 2520, you will notice that you have to put the hydro in neutral if you dismount with the engine running (or the engine shuts off). So in that situation you have to set the park brake or the tractor will roll. The safety interlocks on different brands and models may act different in this regard. Its one of those details you should notice when shopping.

Good luck in your shopping

 

[rtm038]

Hi rtm038,

Wow, I see you joined TBN in 2004 but are just now looking to purchase your first tractor. That may be a record.

I bet it is a record. Do I get a prize.........

Anyway, I went to the JD dealer today and checked out a 2520 TLB and really liked it. To me, and I could be wrong, but it seems like 2520 is a nicer/better tractor than the T1110 (IMO of course). The price he gave me seems to be pretty good (about $23,000), so I'll probably be ordering it towards the end of the week. Thanks again everyone. Maybe by the end of July I'll be able to post my pics, instead of drooling over everyone else's.

Ryan