Question on steel thickness for I-match modification??

[mx125]

I'll try to spare you the complicated "verbal drawing" as much as possible. To modify my tiller to fit I-match I had a possible solution but wanted your thoughts on strength and choice of steel plate.

to make imatch fit:

I need to shorten the rise from lower pins to top pin, and I need to create a slightly wider attachment using standard male pins instead of the tillers current multiple specific "slots" with holes for cross pin.

So I thought if I bolt 1/4 inch (?) steel plate to one of the vertical slots using the existing pin hole, and then drill a hole in that plate 2.5 inches above that and insert new standard TSC lower male pins in that higher wider position . . .i'd be right on the dimensions. And i don't permanently mangle the tiller if I need to sell it.

Assuming that makes any sense, would a piece of steel plate say 5 inches high, 3 inches deep, with about 2.5 inches of that above current framing with a male pin be sufficient to hold each side of the 500lb 60" tiller? Or would the weight on each pin bend the plate inward and up?

What would you suggest for thickness and would a hacksaw and drill do the job on that type of steel? Not that I know where to buy plate steel . . but maybe I can salvage from something.

Thanks for any thoughts you have!

 

[Bill Barrett]

This isn't going to help much for your project, but it's food for thought.
I have a old Navy boiler maker/ welder buddy, his theory is, if 1/4" will do it think about 3/8" and use 1/2" works every time.

 

[mx125]

This isn't going to help much for your project, but it's food for thought.
I have a old Navy boiler maker/ welder buddy, his theory is, if 1/4" will do it think about 3/8" and use 1/2" works every time.

Well you're right about that. And I really should have suggested 1/2 right off the bat. I don't even think 1/4 will come close.

But I'm wondering if a free upright of 1/2 inch bolted steel is a suitable plan. My JD cutter (for example) is a lot thinner steel at pin mounting . . but there is the triangulation of the side straps running up to meet at the top link mount. So I just don't know . . . .

And like I said . . can I even cut/drill 1/2 steel plate at home?

 

[Bill Barrett]

If you go with 1/2" hack saw is duable but slow. Don't know what size drill you have, but that can be done. Might check with a small welding shop and have them bandsaw couple pieces of 3" flat stock, and drill the holes in a drill press?

 

[kennyd]

I have used 3/8" steel for most of the stuff I've made. Is there any way you can get us a picture?

Oh, and by the way, most new tractor owners soon start buying welders and metalworking tools

 

[Bill Barrett]

I have used 3/8" steel for most of the stuff I've made. Is there any way you can get us a picture?

Oh, and by the way, most new tractor owners soon start buying welders and metalworking tools

LOL thats the truth, I'm lucky I had the sheet metal/machine shop before the tractor.

 

[mx125]

I have used 3/8" steel for most of the stuff I've made. Is there any way you can get us a picture?

Oh, and by the way, most new tractor owners soon start buying welders and metalworking tools

I laughed at that too! I found myself thinking recently . . hmmm . .I wonder how hard it would be to weld . . .how much would a . . .

It is a logical progression, I agree.

I can try and post a picture. Attached is a pic of the tiller from their website. I've drawn lines to the points where I would bolt the plate . . and then showed in grey where the plate and new pin would go (on one side). The perspective is strange, but the plate should mount flat to the existing slots and the pin would orient as a normal lower pin would.

As you can see if I got lucky the spacing for the lower imatch hooks would fit right into a left and right slot . .but no such luck. Given I need to shorten the reach to the top link by 2.5 inches. . . I thought new raised lower pins was easier than drilling a lower hole in the top as well.

If I can't get the picture posted I apoligise in advance. . . .

 

[mx125]

Here is another with the plate/pin labelled . .

 

[DirtHauler]

I maybe missing something here but wouldn't it be easier to just remove the "center" plates for the lower link pins and that would give you enough clearance (width) for the iMatch? From what I understand what you wanna do, won't that mess up the distance from your lower link to the top link on the tiller for the iMatch?

 

[mx125]

I maybe missing something here but wouldn't it be easier to just remove the "center" plates for the lower link pins and that would give you enough clearance (width) for the iMatch? From what I understand what you wanna do, won't that mess up the distance from your lower link to the top link on the tiller for the iMatch?

Cutting off the two outer plates and adding standard bolt on pins was my first thought as well. But then I would need to add a lower top hook hole as the spread now is 17.5" and Imatch needs 15". At that point on the top frame I would be running into the side supports. Also . .that would damage the tiller . . at least in the eyes of future buyers.

That's why i thought the bolt on plates would kill two birds . . .

 

[Zinno87]

What about adding a threaded rod, or pipe, or some type of bar between the pins to prevent the new steel tabs from bending inward?

 

[mx125]

What about adding a threaded rod, or pipe, or some type of bar between the pins to prevent the new steel tabs from bending inward?

That's a great idea! That will make it much stronger. I'll try and come up with an elegant attachment for the rod/pipe . . and then install it as a complete bracket. Thanks!! Good thinking.

 

[Loogie]

You would still have a problem with them rotating. I would have a metal shop fab two U shaped brackets about as wide as the preset tabs are hat would fit on the outside of the two outside tabs so you could bolt it to the tabs, have another veritcal tab welded to that and positioned to give you the required horizontal 25 1/2" or so spacing for the cat 1 or even cat 2 pins (saves a bushing) and 15" vertical from the top link pin. Doing this will give you the proper spacing, keep the bracket from rotating and prserve the OEM look of your tiller. If you are concerned about bending the vertical tabs inward, just have the welder put a pair of gussets on the inside of the bracket. The bigest issue I see with this approach at all is getting enough clearance below the pin for the iMatch hook to go under. I don't think 2" is going to do it. You may have to end up using a longer tab and raising the top link as well.
The completed bracket will look something like this:

 

[mx125]

You would still have a problem with them rotating. I would have a metal shop fab two U shaped brackets about as wide as the preset tabs are hat would fit on the outside of the two outside tabs so you could bolt it to the tabs, have another veritcal tab welded to that and positioned to give you the required horizontal 25 1/2" or so spacing for the cat 1 or even cat 2 pins (saves a bushing) and 15" vertical from the top link pin. Doing this will give you the proper spacing, keep the bracket from rotating and prserve the OEM look of your tiller. If you are concerned about bending the vertical tabs inward, just have the welder put a pair of gussets on the inside of the bracket. The bigest issue I see with this approach at all is getting enough clearance below the pin for the iMatch hook to go under. I don't think 2" is going to do it. You may have to end up using a longer tab and raising the top link as well.
The completed bracket will look something like this:

you're right. Rotation was another concern I had. I considered adding a second small locator hole w/bolt near one corner of each bracket. but I'm worried about weakening the whole setup and the actual shear force on the small bolt.

Your bracket does look robust. I'd like to avoid modifying the top. Perhaps I could use your design to some extent by having a welder create a shape like the attached and have the pin extrude as shown. You're right that a two sided bracket (per side) will be much more stable and should negate both bending and twisting.

I really apprecite you taking the time to think about it and create a diagram. Very helpful!