question on going from conventional oil to synthetic on smaller engines

[tstex]

Hello to All,

In my F-150, I use a full synthetic 5W30 by Quaker State...it's the second best synthetic w the second lowest NOACK rating just behind Pennzoil's top of line.

In my push lawnmower [2011), riding lawnmower [2005] both B&S, and my JD Gator [Kawasaki] I use Pennzoil conventional based on the spec's of the engine. Although Ford says change every 10,000 miles, I always do btw 4-5K. What do you guys think about me switching all of my smaller engines to the QS 5W40 synthetic? I am a weekend farmer/rancher at best, sometimes on making it 2-3 times a month to the ranch. so there's only moderate usage and only spurts of heavy usage. The Kubota M5400S w shredder tackles the big cutting jobs and the Gator is a 1998 that still looks pretty good except when the girls cut a turn too short by a tree..tree wins every time.

Summer temps get hot mid high 90's; winters are never consistently cold, so temps do not fluctuate too much. I have just read so many times that synthetic is just so much better and lasts a lot longer than conventional...the goal is to give the engines a boost in their quest for longevity.

Thank you,
tstex

 

[9035768HM]

It wont hurt to do that but its been taught forever not to go from synthetic to conventional oil

 

[TimberFarm]

Isn't 5W40 kind of thin for mower engines?

 

[tstex]

Isn't 5W40 kind of thin for mower engine

Great catch...I do not know why I typed 5W40, but it's a 5W30 Synthetic by QS...thanks !

 

[TimberFarm]

The "5" is the thin. The "40" is the thick.
10w30 or maybe 20w40.

 

[JJT]

Hello to All,

In my F-150, I use a full synthetic 5W30 by Quaker State...it's the second best synthetic w the second lowest NOACK rating just behind Pennzoil's top of line.

In my push lawnmower [2011), riding lawnmower [2005] both B&S, and my JD Gator [Kawasaki] I use Pennzoil conventional based on the spec's of the engine. Although Ford says change every 10,000 miles, I always do btw 4-5K. What do you guys think about me switching all of my smaller engines to the QS 5W40 synthetic? I am a weekend farmer/rancher at best, sometimes on making it 2-3 times a month to the ranch. so there's only moderate usage and only spurts of heavy usage. The Kubota M5400S w shredder tackles the big cutting jobs and the Gator is a 1998 that still looks pretty good except when the girls cut a turn too short by a tree..tree wins every time.

Summer temps get hot mid high 90's; winters are never consistently cold, so temps do not fluctuate too much. I have just read so many times that synthetic is just so much better and lasts a lot longer than conventional...the goal is to give the engines a boost in their quest for longevity.

Thank you,
tstex

I switched everything I own to full synthetic years ago. Just do it.

As for Ford saying change the oil every 10K miles and you changing it every 4K miles, you are wasting your money. Pay for a used oil analysis, you'll find you are changing your oil way too soon. I was a doubter too, I bought a 6 pack of used oil analysis kits and sent samples in at 5K, 8K and 10K, all came back with no issues and plenty of life left in the additive package. 10K is a nice round number, easy to remember. Blackstone and Cat offer this service. I've never had an oil related failure and routinely run my cars/trucks past 300K miles. Up here in the salt belt the frames go before there is a mechanical issue.

 

[DMW]

Isn't 5W40 kind of thin for mower engines?

25+ years ago, might have been true with some oils. Not enough film strength to protect metal parts on startup. Oil/additive chemistry has come a long way. I wouldn't even be worried using a 0W oil today.

 

[DMW]

The NOACK rating is a recent thing in the last 10 years. Not really that important in general applications. The Viscosity Index is probably the easiest way to measure an oil using only a single rating on a spec sheet. The higher the number the better.

 

[ericm979]

It wont hurt to do that but its been taught forever not to go from synthetic to conventional oil

That was true a number of decades ago, at least for mobil 1. It's not an issue now.

I ran 10w-30 in my wood splitter's engine. It made a lot more valve noise. Switching back to 30w quieted it. I run synthetic in most engines including chainsaws but I have been sticking with conventional 30w for the small industrial engines.

 

[tstex]

I switched everything I own to full synthetic years ago. Just do it.

As for Ford saying change the oil every 10K miles and you changing it every 4K miles, you are wasting your money. Pay for a used oil analysis, you'll find you are changing your oil way too soon. I was a doubter too, I bought a 6 pack of used oil analysis kits and sent samples in at 5K, 8K and 10K, all came back with no issues and plenty of life left in the additive package. 10K is a nice round number, easy to remember. Blackstone and Cat offer this service. I've never had an oil related failure and routinely run my cars/trucks past 300K miles. Up here in the salt belt the frames go before there is a mechanical issue.

Thank you JJT and everyone else for your responses...

I have an EcoBoost with a direct inject and the oil does contaminate faster than a non-direct inject. I set my oil changes to 5K, I did 4K 1-2 times but changed my methodology for when to change and have it right now. I have 108,980 miles right now. The oil comes out pretty dark as opposed has how it goes into engine. I also have the BG direct inject cleaning done every 50-60K too.

What type of car/truck do you have and what type of synthetic do you use?