If you're thinking about a cab then don't think about it, just get it! With a cab you can work in weather that you wouldn't otherwise work in; bugs are less of a problem, as is heat and cold. Folks that are running in thick wooded areas will advise to not have a cab, and I would tend to agree with them, though how to decide when it's too wooded is a tough call: I have lots of trees and often am smacking into limbs (most are soft alder) and have not, in about 215 hours, encountered any damage from such. Just have to be more aware of your surroundings: it's good advise no matter what. If I really need to get into tight, wooded quarters I just jump on my
B7800 (and then have to watch out for taking branches and blackberries to the face/arms!).
Age is creeping up one me so I figured, especially after being beating around on my
B7800, getting ripped up from blackberries (close to 1,200 hours I've put on this tractor in such an environment), a cab would be worth the added expense (comfort). I installed a bluetooth radio and can take calls, something that might be a bit trickier on a non-cabbed tractor. I also have a monitor system, though I've mucked up my front camera
I'm wanting to say that the cab ran about $3k extra for me. I tend to save money elsewhere (never bought a new car/truck) in which case that amount was fairly trivial and easy to justify (less than 10% added cost).
As far as that torque bar goes, there's plenty of other things under the tractor that present a graver concern. Unless one is going to be running full steam into brush and hidden logs I seriously doubt that this bar is going to ever be an issue. I don't like all the stuff that's down below, but I just accept that I'll never be four-wheeling with this NX like I've done with my
B7800 (totally indestructible tractor!): parts for larger tractors are significantly more expensive! Anyway, even if one were to run up on that bar I'd figure the tractor would be readily able to power itself off whatever it climbed on to: if you have a loader your chances of becoming stuck are reduced quite a bit [and with a backhoe it drops to WAY down!]).
Get ballast in the rears (some do it in the fronts too, but that's a tough call- some situations might make sense). I've found that with ballast I'm pretty much able to lift to max capacity without being too tippy: I've done a LOT of loader work, scooped lots of gravel/material that's very heavy; have also hoisted some very huge tree trunks with my grapple. With my box blade on (about 1,200 lbs) there's zero sense of tipping (forward).