Putting in a new lawn, need advice

[75H2]

We are almost ready to move into our new home. Next project is the yard. I need help with a few things.

1. Best way to remove rocks. I have a SCUT. I'll get a rock rake. I may have to rent a skid loader with a rockhound. Anything else I should consider?

2. Grass seed. Where can I buy in bulk? What type? I'm in western Pa. I think it's listed as "cool" for lawn purposes. It will be mostly sun until I get some trees to grow I have 3.5 acreas of mud at present I need to turn into a yard

3. How much grass sed per acre?

4. Cover for the seed. I was thinking about using straw. What is a reasonable proce to pay for a bail. Are there any formula's to figure out how much I need?

What am I missing? This is the first time around for me. I'm sure I'll be blindsided by something.

Thanks in advance


2.

 

[silverking]

Well lets see, on the cheap it sounds like you are headed down the right path, get the rake and make passes with the rake at an angle untill you have them all in a row makes it easier to get up. Not sure about buying in bulk unless you have something like Southern States up that way. Either way at the average rate of 50lbs/acre you only need a few 50lb bags. I would guess tall fescue, others closer to you may chime in with a better suggestion.
Straw is what most seem to use, if I remember right it was like 4 small bales per/acre and I would not over do it unless you plan on raking it up because straw is a major cause of lawn fungus. Pricing for straw in my area is about $4.00 a bail. What are you missing? well lets see have you had a soil test? lime? fert? crabgrass preventer? pain killers for the back pain?

Good luck

 

[MarkV]

My first step would be to talk with the county extension agent to see what type of grass does the best in your area. That is also the place to get a soil test so you know what needs to be added to the soil for balancing the PH and proper amount/type of fertilizer. Seed is so expensive these days you want the soil right to get a good stand of grass.

MarkV

 

[jeffinsgf]

Silverking was doing great with his advice until he said "crabgrass preventer". DO NOT put down pre-emergent before, during or after seeding. Most pre-emergents require a minimum of 8 weeks between application and seeding.

Consider slit-seeding and a light compost topdress instead of straw. Straw is difficult to control. Too much and you ****** germination and it takes a long time to decompose. Too little and it won't prevent erosion (which is the only reason to use it). The compost will benefit any soil structure, aid in seed germination, and provide some erosion control.

 

[Tororider]

All of the above advice sounds good, I am outside Detroit and would suggest kentucky bluegrass. I suppose it depends on what you want it for, yard, or just groundcover. Kentucky blue is going to be more of "yard" grass. Other types would be, to me, more of a groundcover. They would also probably be hardier. I would plant a sun strain of lawn now, then when your trees get bigger, you can overseed with a shade type grass.

 

[jcims]

We're getting ready to move in to our home as well, and someone said in passing 'looks like a muddy summer for you, at least you can get your grass in the fall'.

is there any reason why we wouldn't want to plant it now (Ohio)? actually it won't be now, could be up to a month from now, but i'm not thinking that six months of mud and dust is a good idea.

thanks!

 

[jeffinsgf]

Mid-summer is hard on cool season grass seedlings. In other words, KBG or turf fescue is going to struggle if it is planted so that the seedlings (3 or 4 weeks after germination) are going through their growth phase during blistering temps.

Further north you are, less of a problem you'll have.

Annual rye germinates fast and can provide some ground cover and erosion control -- and look like a yard. If it gets into June before you can do anything, consider AR then "real" seed in September.

 

[ray66v]

We're getting ready to move in to our home as well, and someone said in passing 'looks like a muddy summer for you, at least you can get your grass in the fall'.

is there any reason why we wouldn't want to plant it now (Ohio)? actually it won't be now, could be up to a month from now, but i'm not thinking that six months of mud and dust is a good idea.

thanks!

Unless you have a way to water it, it could require luck to grow grass in Ohio in May, (The last few years it has been dry up here). The best time to plant is in the fall, warm ground, cooler temperatures, and you know it will rain.

If you are going to plant, consider planting what you can reasonably keep wet, and do the rest in the fall.

 

[75H2]

A follow up question.
I've read about seed that has a "variety" of types of grasses. Is that worht looking into? I intend ot water liberally. I'll have nore than a few dollars tied up on hoses. But I want grass, not mud & rocks for the kids to play on.
One poster cautioned using straw. What other options are there? If I were made of green ($$) hydroseeding would be considred. However, that not being the case what do I look into?

 

[Tororider]

If you can find a seed mill around you they can mix you up a custom seed. If you want a yard and can water, I would suggest Kentucky Blue Grass, but as others have suggested you could add an annual to it to help give it some shade this summer. But a good seed mill around you should also have some good suggestions for you.