Put a snow plow on the loader.

[LD1]

Been wanting to put a plow on the MX. The last few years I have been plowing my drive at the house and shop with the rear blade on my old L3400, which does a nice job. But now that I got the MX, SSQA, and a diverter, it was time to put an actual plow on.

Rather than buying a ~$120 blank SSQA plate......or trying to fab one......I though.......Why not just use my pallet fork frame?

So thats what I did. I had to browse Craigslist and found a pretty good deal on a 7.5 poly plow locally. I didnt want to use my truck plow, even though its the same meyer mount. Dont want to cross contaminate my tractor hydraulic fluid in with my truck plow pump.

Here is the end results:

 

[lhfarm]

That is very impressive! I don't know if you have added this to a hundred and one uses of forks post, but you should. My only wish is that I had seen this simple solution years ago.

 

[LD1]

Yep, I added a link to here in that thread

 

[nybirdman]

You are going to be impressed on how nice that works.Very similar to mine.

 

[Thomas]

Nice :thumbsup: like the reach distance from tires to plow in case you have to push snow back or high still able keep on flat ground.

 

[LD1]

Nice :thumbsup: like the reach distance from tires to plow in case you have to push snow back or high still able keep on flat ground.

It does have a good bit of reach. But thats actually as close as I can get it to the tractor without modifying the plows a-frame.

I wanted to not molest the plow. Keep it original incase I need it for a backup, or ever decide to sell it. As well as make the tractor mount where it will fit any other meyer plow of classic design. All about compatibility, Even though using a STP7.5 meyer on a 1-ton DRW would look pretty goofy, especially when I have a c8.5 + wings now......if something happens.......its better than nothing for a backup

 

[skyhook]

Great idea, love it. Only difference "I" would have done is to put that block where the plow locks into "on the bottom" (underneath) your fork QA. It would give you more height with the loader arms to ground distance and your plow will be closer to ground level. But thats just me.:thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

Great idea, love it. Only difference "I" would have done is to put that block where the plow locks into "on the bottom" (underneath) your fork QA. It would give you more height with the loader arms to ground distance and your plow will be closer to ground level. But thats just me.:thumbsup:

Putting the blocks under, and welding them on, would have posed an issue with the pallet forks. Those blocks would be gouging the ground when trying to use the pallet forks.

As it is now, I can get the plow a-frame level (so it remains level when angling) and still have the loader arms ~6" off the ground. So no worries.

The hardest part to get used to about using this plow, is that there is no reference point. I have to look everytime to make sure I am lowering the plow to the same spot every time, where as when mounted on a truck, the hitch part dont move, its just lower and go. If I dont pay attention and get the level the same everytime, when angling the plow dont remain level. IT will take some practice. Instead of holes, I should have cut slots in the lower pin holes. That way It would offer some degree of side to side tilt to contour to the ground better, or take the error out of it If I dont lower to the same spot everytime.

 

[skyhook]

Ahh, your right, didn't think of them.

 

[Thomas]

..........................................
Same thoughts as you when it comes to back up,pickup 7.5 plow and Kubota 8' plow w/scraper blade. :thumbsup:

 

[s219]

Looks good!

 

[ishiboo]

Looks great! I built a SSQA snow plow last year and sold it for $400 more than I had into it after the season was over. My plan was to build a new one this fall, but I didn't see any blades I really liked. So I have the rear dirt blade on and had to deal with the storm today... definitely confirmed that the lighter front plow is the way to go! Decided I am going to look for a REALLY nice blade, tractor is mint so the blade might as well match.

 

[sd455dan]

Excellent job LD1


That looks great
Really makes me want to modify my pallet fork frame and use the left over blade I kept from the New Holland skid steer i sold.
but would need to add some trip springs to keep from damaging my FEL.
Also like how the plow has a built in ability to rotate up and down in both side receiver hitches using the (plow stingers?):thumbsup:

 

[Citydude]

Nice job LD. Your new nickname is "mister wizard"

 

[nybirdman]

You may want to think about adding a cross over relief valve.I put one on mine after two years of plowing and it has saved damage a few times.I think Surplus Center has them.

 

[LD1]

You may want to think about adding a cross over relief valve.I put one on mine after two years of plowing and it has saved damage a few times.I think Surplus Center has them.

Yep. I am one of the first ones to always mention that when someone posts a plow build. The hoses on the plow are shot and as of now, are the weak link. I may get a relief....but I don't really have anything to catch a plow edge on that would worry me. If I do, it will blow a plow hose, I'll replace it and install a valve.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

You may want to think about adding a cross over relief valve.I put one on mine after two years of plowing and it has saved damage a few times.I think Surplus Center has them.

Is this what you are referring to?
1/2 NPT 3 GPM 15-3 PSI HYD CUSHION VALVE

 

[camshawn]

Looks good!

 

[LD1]

Is this what you are referring to?
1/2 NPT 3 GPM 15-3 PSI HYD CUSHION VALVE

Yess, that would be a crossover relief.

 

[Captain Dirty]

The hardest part to get used to about using this plow, is that there is no reference point. I have to look everytime to make sure I am lowering the plow to the same spot every time, where as when mounted on a truck, the hitch part dont move, its just lower and go. If I dont pay attention and get the level the same everytime, when angling the plow dont remain level. IT will take some practice. Instead of holes, I should have cut slots in the lower pin holes. That way It would offer some degree of side to side tilt to contour to the ground better, or take the error out of it If I dont lower to the same spot everytime.

Could you use a skid shoe or caster wheel on the fork frame as an index for the loader height? A separate, possibly de-mountable, bracket or brackets on the fork lift frame would not compromise its use with forks.

Captain Dirty