Purchasing a 3320, questions & concerns

[hamdog]

I'm going to have the dealer contact the previous owner to see what his maintenance schedule was. I will try to get him down on his price.

 

[Martian]

If you feel confident with what the previous owner has to say I would feel comfortable paying $17.5k rather than new.

 

[hamdog]

If you feel confident with what the previous owner has to say I would feel comfortable paying $17.5k rather than new.

Agree! Thanks for the help!

 

[foggy1111]

I went into my local deere dealer about 2 years ago with the intention of buying a new 3320. I had used the JD site to determine exactly what I wanted to buy. I had read what others had paid here on TBN.

I had bought a few tractors from this dealership in the past...but didn't really know this salesman (whom was the sales manager) very well. He would not budge off the MSRP. I'm not sure what got into him....or if he thought I wanted to trade something later....but he was being difficult.

I was prepared to pay him a fair price and had done my homework....but his position really soured me on his store. I left his store....and changed my mind about buying new. Really strange....all it wudda taken that day was a half-way FAIR price on a new tractor.

Instead, I found a great used 3320 and 300cx loader, with all the right stuff and was priced fairly at a dealer down the road a ways: $17,000. (ehydro, remotes, hydraulic lines to front, big tires, block heater, etc. - 300 hours - a real cream puff) The former owner really had babied this tractor....and traded "up" to a cab tractor.

A year and a half later.......I'm happy with this tractor and bought some needed implements with my savings (root rake grapple, stump grinder and more). The local dealer didn't make a penny....and didn't deserve any for his efforts with me that day. He may never get another shot. :laughing:

Thanks to Tractor House . com

 

[hamdog]

I went into my local deere dealer about 2 years ago with the intention of buying a new 3320. I had used the JD site to determine exactly what I wanted to buy. I had read what others had paid here on TBN.

I had bought a few tractors from this dealership in the past...but didn't really know this salesman (whom was the sales manager) very well. He would not budge off the MSRP. I'm not sure what got into him....or if he thought I wanted to trade something later....but he was being difficult.

I was prepared to pay him a fair price and had done my homework....but his position really soured me on his store. I left his store....and changed my mind about buying new. Really strange....all it wudda taken that day was a half-way FAIR price on a new tractor.

Instead, I found a great used 3320 and 300cx loader, with all the right stuff and was priced fairly at a dealer down the road a ways: $17,000. (ehydro, remotes, hydraulic lines to front, big tires, block heater, etc. - 300 hours - a real cream puff) The former owner really had babied this tractor....and traded "up" to a cab tractor.

A year and a half later.......I'm happy with this tractor and bought some needed implements with my savings (root rake grapple, stump grinder and more). The local dealer didn't make a penny....and didn't deserve any for his efforts with me that day. He may never get another shot. :laughing:

Thanks to Tractor House . com

The dealer I'm working with has been great. The salesman understands my needs/wants and has been working with me for the past 6mos trying to figure out the best tractor to suite my needs. He knows me well so he is not pushing me into anything and really wants me to make the right decision. The used tractor with 740 hours on it just makes me worried.

Hopefully today he gets a hold of the previous owner and gets a good grasp on how well this tractor was maintained. If he feels it wasn't maintained as regularly as it should have been then I'm going to proceed on a new one or continue looking for a used one.

 

[Martian]

I went into my local deere dealer about 2 years ago with the intention of buying a new 3320. I had used the JD site to determine exactly what I wanted to buy. I had read what others had paid here on TBN.

I had bought a few tractors from this dealership in the past...but didn't really know this salesman (whom was the sales manager) very well. He would not budge off the MSRP. I'm not sure what got into him....or if he thought I wanted to trade something later....but he was being difficult.

I was prepared to pay him a fair price and had done my homework....but his position really soured me on his store. I left his store....and changed my mind about buying new. Really strange....all it wudda taken that day was a half-way FAIR price on a new tractor.

Instead, I found a great used 3320 and 300cx loader, with all the right stuff and was priced fairly at a dealer down the road a ways: $17,000. (ehydro, remotes, hydraulic lines to front, big tires, block heater, etc. - 300 hours - a real cream puff) The former owner really had babied this tractor....and traded "up" to a cab tractor.

A year and a half later.......I'm happy with this tractor and bought some needed implements with my savings (root rake grapple, stump grinder and more). The local dealer didn't make a penny....and didn't deserve any for his efforts with me that day. He may never get another shot. :laughing:

Thanks to Tractor House . com

It's amazing how much a salesman can make/break a sale because of their stupidity. I would have done the same thing in that situation though. Glad to hear you finally got what you were looking for.

 

[foggy1111]

The dealer I'm working with has been great. The salesman understands my needs/wants and has been working with me for the past 6mos trying to figure out the best tractor to suite my needs. He knows me well so he is not pushing me into anything and really wants me to make the right decision. The used tractor with 740 hours on it just makes me worried.

Hopefully today he gets a hold of the previous owner and gets a good grasp on how well this tractor was maintained. If he feels it wasn't maintained as regularly as it should have been then I'm going to proceed on a new one or continue looking for a used one.

It sounds like your working with a good salesman. :thumbsup: I seldom use my tractor in the winter and I work in the woods....so a cab does not fit my needs very well.

I would not be too concerned with 750 hours. Like you, I put about 100 hours on my tractor each year. (this is likely quite average for many of us) After 20 years you will still only have 2700 hours on the machine. That is still not many hours for these machines. (chances are you will trade it in a few years....like most of us )

FWIW......I would rather have fewer hours.....but I would not let 750 hours be a deal breaker.

 

[hamdog]

It sounds like your working with a good salesman. :thumbsup: I seldom use my tractor in the winter and I work in the woods....so a cab does not fit my needs very well.

I would not be too concerned with 750 hours. Like you, I put about 100 hours on my tractor each year. (this is likely quite average for many of us) After 20 years you will still only have 2700 hours on the machine. That is still not many hours for these machines.

FWIW......I would rather have fewer hours.....but I would not let 750 hours be a deal breaker.

Thanks Foggy1111,

Hopefully I will know soon what the maintenance schedule was like. If it is acceptable then I can try to work him more on his price.

 

[hamdog]

Just heard back from the dealer. The tractor was never serviced at the dealership but the previous owner religously changed the oil twice a year. He owned it for about 5 years @ 740hrs, so approx 150 hrs/yr. What is the maintenace schedule suppose to be on the 3320?

I think I will be proceeding with the purchase of this tractor with the brand new 300cx loader, and either a rear snowblower or front plow. What are your guys thoughts. I have a 300ft long driveway with a huge turn around area. Space to put snow is not a problem. I do not know if I want to be driving in reverse up and down the driveway. I have never used a rear snowblower. Thanks everyone for the help!

 

[Martian]

Just heard back from the dealer. The tractor was never serviced at the dealership but the previous owner religously changed the oil twice a year. He owned it for about 5 years @ 740hrs, so approx 150 hrs/yr. What is the maintenace schedule suppose to be on the 3320?

I think I will be proceeding with the purchase of this tractor with the brand new 300cx loader, and either a rear snowblower or front plow. What are your guys thoughts. I have a 300ft long driveway with a huge turn around area. Space to put snow is not a problem. I do not know if I want to be driving in reverse up and down the driveway. I have never used a rear snowblower. Thanks everyone for the help!

That sounds like a lot of servicing - which is a good thing. I go about every 150 hours and I believe that is what Deere recommends (50 hour initial and then every 150 hours after). For him to be servicing it twice as much as required is excellent - he was draining a lot of perfectly good oil but that is a good thing for you!

I would proceed and see what kind of a deal you can make. I would go 300cx, snowblower will work good but only if you can justify it being quicker vs a back blade or box blade that you can use in the dirt as well. I have about a 1000' drive with two landing areas (including distance to the barn) and I just use a back blade and loader as I can't justify the blower being that little bit quicker - it sure would be nice though.

I would say you would need a nice heavy duty box blade for a good ballast as well during the summer while your using the loader and they move dirt and snow really well also.

 

[hamdog]

Thanks Martian Tractorman,

The only issue with the back blade and loader for clearing snow is I'm worried I would be digging up a lot of my driveway. Most is gravel but a lot of it is loose washed stone that does not freeze or remained compacted. So you have to be very careful when plowing so you don't dig up have the driveway.

My brother in-law plowed for us last year with a truck plow and my fiance and I spent 3 wknds in a row with two power brooms, shovels, tractor, etc and raked approximately 20 loads of stone off our lawn. I really don't want to do that again this coming spring.

Now if my driveway was paved I could see myself easily using the bucket and a black blade.

Thansk again for the help, greatly appreciated. It has definitely made the decision of purchasing this tractor a lot easier for me!!!

 

[Martian]

Thanks Martian Tractorman,

The only issue with the back blade and loader for clearing snow is I'm worried I would be digging up a lot of my driveway. Most is gravel but a lot of it is loose washed stone that does not freeze or remained compacted. So you have to be very careful when plowing so you don't dig up have the driveway.

My brother in-law plowed for us last year with a truck plow and my fiance and I spent 3 wknds in a row with two power brooms, shovels, tractor, etc and raked approximately 20 loads of stone off our lawn. I really don't want to do that again this coming spring.

Now if my driveway was paved I could see myself easily using the bucket and a black blade.

Thansk again for the help, greatly appreciated. It has definitely made the decision of purchasing this tractor a lot easier for me!!!

Oh. I should have asked. I'm on a paved road and all of my drive is paved but the little I go off the side of my drive it really tears it up so with a gravel drive definitely don't use the loader and blade, a blower is the way to go then. I'm dirt at my cabin and have a plow guy and I have to deal with it every spring. I just don't go up there a lot during the winter so I need someone to plow it and it is a hassle.

 

[hamdog]

I wish I had a paved driveway but its definitely not in the budget. Most likely this summer I will replace the washed stone with gravel. I might help well atleast over time it will compact.

I should know by tomorrow if I'm approved to make the purchase. I'm getting pretty anxious.

 

[foggy1111]

Check threads that tell you how to put a 2" to 3" plastic or steel pipe over the cutting edge on your bucket (or blade). This will really cut down the on plowing your gravel off the road. Use the search feature for slit pipe or tube edge? Also prevents gouging your paved drive....but wont do as clean of plowing job.

 

[hamdog]

Check threads that tell you how to put a 2" to 3" plastic or steel pipe over the cutting edge on your bucket (or blade). This will really cut down the on plowing your gravel off the road. Use the search feature for slit pipe or tube edge? Also prevents gouging your paved drive....but wont do as clean of plowing job.

Thanks for the advice. What are your thoughts on upgrading to a heavy duty bucket with cutting edge? Currently they have a regular 61" bucket on it. Thanks!

 

[Johndeere3720]

I have tried many different implements to plow snow and what I've found is best for a gravel driveway is a landscape (york) rake. It can be angled left or right to move the snow to either side and the spring tines wound pull as much gravel off the road, instead it will "fluff" the gravel and bring it on top of the packed snow below giving your vehicles better traction in slick conditions. Then when the snow melts off you just go back over the driveway with the rake angled the opposite direction and it will pull and remaining gravel back onto the driveway.

 

[foggy1111]

Thanks for the advice. What are your thoughts on upgrading to a heavy duty bucket with cutting edge? Currently they have a regular 61" bucket on it. Thanks!

If you do considerable dirt work....I would DEFINATELY get the HD bucket. The 300cx loader has allot of force to offer....and a light duty bucket likely wont stand up to a HD user like myself.

That is one area where my tractor was deficient....the bucket was light duty. First thing I did was to re-inforce it at the top and sides.....then added a tooth bar, bucket hooks and a reciever hitch in the center. Now it's good for the long run. :thumbsup:

I dont thing the extra cutting edge is needed if you go for a tooth bar......and for me a tooth bar is the real deal (if you do much digging).

 

[Martian]

HD bucket is definitely sturdier.

Did you get anything worked out with the dealer?

 

[hamdog]

Foggy1111 & Martian TractorMan,

I was approved yesterday for the tractor, this is the deal I worked out. I want thank you guys and everyone else for helping through this purchase

-2007 3320, 740hrs (well maintained), canopy, working lights, brand new 300CX loader - $16,900 (was asking $18,900)

-Heavy duty bucket with cutting edge - $347
-New industrial tires and rims ,loaded (replaced the used ag tires) - $425
-Adjustable Draft Links - $347
-Frontier SB1174 rear snowblower with hydraulic chute - $3200
-John Deere (liberty) Deluxe 20 gun safe ($1300) - $580

Total without tax $22,000. I did not think I did to bad, saved at least $10K from new. This will be perfect for me I just could not swing the extra $150/mos payment. Hopefully in the future I will be able to purchase a 4000 or 5000 series tractor with Cab.

Future purchases for the tractor will be:

-hydrualic post driver
-mid mount mower + mid mount pto kit
-forks
-grapple + remote hydraulic for FEL to run the grapple
-2 row corn planter
-seeder


Thanks everyone for the help!

 

[Red Horse]

good luck guy with the 3320. I bought a new one in 05, hydro, turfs, 300 CX. I'm about to turn 900 hours and yesterday I bought an 07 4720 Cab with 200 hours- unbelievable deal. I finally decided I was too old to be freezing my butt on my 500' gravel drive. I'm in Worcester county MA. Not quite a cold as you but cold enough. I am going to ask 17,000 for my. High price, but its beern stored inside and PM'd beyond the book- plus waxed etc. I figure someone will pay the premium for TLC vs something that has been hammered.

Good luck. build yourself a concrete weight block first thing. and if it doesn't have hydraulic lines to the front, the parts are about 200 bucks and its not a difficult install. (I'm assuming you have a 3rd valve) There have been plenty of posts on building snow plow rigs and junk yards around here will sell you a 6 or 6.5 ft Fisher for a hundred bucks. (the plow and power angle set up.)