Pumping your septic tank

[coachgrd]

I hear two schools of thought on this issue. Some say if your septic system is working properly, you should never have to have it pumped. Others say you should have it pumped every 3-4 years regardless. What do all of you guys do with yours?

Thanks,
Gary

 

[Gomez]

I have mine pumped every 3 years. I recall a chart I found on a Penn State website that gave a schedule based on tank size, number of people in household, etc.

 

[Richard]

I've read the same 2 schools, so will read on with interest. Myself? The septic pump guy lives about 4 miles away from me (not that it matters) and said it's roughly $250 to do.

I'm leaning on having it done under the logic of it sure cant HURT to have it done...where as COULD it hurt to NOT do it?

For $250 verses what I paid to have it installed, it's almost a no brainer "insurance" gamble for me.

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[RobS]

No solution for you but here are some situations I've experienced...

The house I grew up in had a septic system with a clay tile drainfield. In the 20 plus years my parents lived there the tank was never pumped. Never had a problem with it.

We sold our subdivision home nearly two years ago. Had the tank pumped every few years but found some wet spots in the yard as we were prepping to sell. The house was only 12 years old. Turns out the field system had failed and the liquid was bubbling up in several spots. Diagnosis: Some say it was the tank filling up with solids and the solids get out into the field and plug things up. Others say the natural process of breakdown out in the field produces bacterial by-products which clog it up. I don't know the real answer, only that we had to include an allowance for a new system for the new owner when we sold. Also note that field system failures have become extremely common in that particular community and the building codes have changed since we built that house.

Our new house also has a septic but it has an outlet filter screen coming out of the tank into the field. A couple of months ago I noticed water pooling at the access cover. I suspected the worst and called our builder. He reminded me about the filter and told me he had a tool (bent rod) to remove it. I did, rinsed it out and all is well.

My plan, based strictly on circumstantial data, is to rinse the filter annually and have the tank pumped every two to three years. It seems logical and it's relatively inexpensive. Even with a properly operating system, there will always be some solid matter that accumulates in the tank. That is what it is there for.

BTW, the outlet filters are retro-fittable (is that a word?) /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[EastTexFrank]

We moved into our first house with a septic system 7 years ago. Like you I worried about having them pumped, there were 2, but I couldn't find them even with the original architect's house plans. I talked to the original owner who built the house 50 years earlier and he told me where they were. I dug up the one that handles the kitchen/laundry/shop and it had absolutely no solids in it at all. The second one looks as if it has been covered by a poured concrete slab sometime in the last 50 years so I can't get to it but it has worked perfectly since we have been here and presumably for years before that. I only hope it continues to work as jack hammering that concrete to get to it will be a real PITA. So, I suppose my answer to the your question is yes and no. If they're working good, they'll work for years without any problems but if there's something goes wrong it could be one almighty mess. I think if I could, I would have them pumped every 3 or 4 years, just to avoid any disasters. As it is, I check one every 3 years and keep my fingers crossed regarding the other one.

 

[AndyM]

Ohio State Extension Office has a similar table here--
Estimate Septic Tank Pumping Frequencies in Years

There's two people in my household and my tank is 2000 gallons--
that's once every 12.4 years... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[polecat]

THE BIGGEST PROBLEM WITH SEPTIC SYSTEMS IS THE SOLIDS GITTIN OUT INTO THE FIELD ..SCREENS R AWESOME AND EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE ONE ON THE OUTER CHAMBER EXIT...99% OF THE PROBLEMS HAPPEN WITH THE FIELD PLUGGIN UP BCUZ OF ROOTS,AND SOLIDS PLUGGIN EM UP..THE OLD CLAY PIPES WILL BREAK DOWN OVER TIME PRESENT FIELD IS LESS THAN 15 YRS OLD AND ALL PLASTIC... A MAJOR PLUS AS THE PIPE BETWEEN THE TANK AND FIELD IS VIRRTUALLY IMPENETRATABLE!! I HAVE SOME TREES A FEW FEET FROM THE FIELD WHICH R GOIN !!! ROOTS WILL TAVEL HUNDREDS OF FEET TO GIT 2 THE NUTRIENT RICH WATER AND CAN GIT INTO ALMOST ANY LEACH FIELD SYSTEM..THE FIELD HERE IS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WOODS[NOT MY DESIGN!!] SOI'VE GOT A LOTTA WORK 2 DO!! RID EX REALLY WORKS WELLTO HELP KEEP UP THE BACTERIA S HEALTH..DETERGENTS CAN B VIRTUALL THE DEATH OF ANY TANKS ABILITY TO EAT **** ..I BUILT AN HERB GARDEN ON TOP OF MY TANK WHICH MAKES ACCESS TO MY 3 DOORS EASY AS PIE..TO KEEP MY TILLER TINES FROM CATCHIN THE REBAR HANDLES I JUST SLID A PIECE OF LUMBER SNUGLY UNDER THE REBAR AND THE TINES JUST SKIP OVER THEM....
REGARDING TANKS AND JACKHAMMERS...
DONT DO IT ...RENT A CONCRETE SAW AND THE GOOD ONES'LL WILL GIVE YOU THE ABILITY TO ANGLE THE BLADE ..IF ONE WITH THE ANGLE BLADE IS NOT AVAILABLE..JUST PUT A 2X4 UNDER ONE TIRE AND CUT YER ACCESS PANES...B4 THAT GET A HAMMER DRILL AND DRILL 2 HOLES AND BEND A PIECE INTO THE SHAPE OF A HANDLE AND USE CONCRETE EPOXY 2 SET IT INTO THE DOOR..THEN MAKE YER 4 CUTS.REMEMBER YOULL HAVE 2 MAKE THE CUTS LONG BECAUSE THE CUTTIN BLADE IS ROUND...THE TANK CAN ALSO JIST HAVE A LITTLE FLOWER BED ON IT AS THIS MAKES TEARIN UP YER LAWN EVERY YEAR TO CLEAN THE SCREEN MUCH EASIER...SORRY TO ALL U GUYS WHO HAVE YER TANKS IN THE MIDDLE OF A PERFECTLY MANICURED LAWN.. PUMPIN IS A GOOD INSURANCE POLICY BUT IF YER FIELD IS IN GOOD SHAPE AND THE SCREEN IS CLEAN THEN I'D SPEND THE $$$ FOR PUMPIN ON LANDSCAPIN TIMBERS AND A BIRDBATH /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

GOOD LUCK
TODD

 

[GerardC]

We bought in 1999. New construction. 5 years now without any problems. I was told that if it is not backing up, notice wet spots, that it is working fine and don't worry about it.
I was also told that it's not like a lightbulb or radiator hose blowing, in that you'll notice if something is wrong well before major problems set in. I leave well-enough alone. My opinion.

 

[Junkman]

Polecat....... please turn off the capital key lock.... in computer language that is referred to as "screaming". It is very uncomfortable to read also. Makes my eyes hurt. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Junkman]

The main reason to have the tank pumped is not to remove the human solid waste, but to remove the waxes that float to the top of the tank. This wax build up consists of soap and fats that separate from the human waste. The waste itself isn't the problem because it falls to the bottom as sludge. The wax layer builds up on the top of the tank and at a certain point, this will become so thick that it will eventually work its way into the leach field lines and clog them. When this happens, it is going to cost a lot to replace the leach field itself. When you use products such as Rid X, they tend to break down the wax and help to move it along the system. You are better off to pump the system more often and not use any "enhancements". The number of people in the home is only one variable, how the system is used is also important. Where does the washing machine water go, is the water soft or hard, how many showers a day, garbage disposal usage, how you handle fats, such as bacon, etc. We put all fats into a empty soup can that is kept in the freezer and when it is 3/4 full it goes out in the garbage. Anything that you cook that has residual fats, such as bacon or hamburger, drain into the can while it is still liquid to dispose of it. We also use a lot of ammonia to break down grease so it doesn't build up in the drain pipes. It will separate again and become part of the fat layer in the septic tank later on, so the ammonia doesn't create a problem in the tank. When you compare the cost of a new septic system to the cost of pumping, every other year is cheap insurance. This is even more important where the soils have a high concentration of clay. If you have a backhoe, go to an area near your leach field and do a test perk test to see how good your drainage actually is. You might be surprised as to what you will learn.

 

[BB_TX]

I never even thought about having ours pumped until I started reading earlier posts on TBN. I just assumed that was something you did when you had a problem. Ours is 18 years old and never pumped and never a problem. We had 4 people in the house the 1st 10 years and only 2 since the kids moved out. My neighbors on both sides had some early problems with theirs, but they both had another builder. Once they had their lateral lines lengthened, they have not had a problem and have not pumped since. Guess I will just leave well enough alone.

 

[Poncho]

Junkman...

You made an interesting comment about hard water versus soft water? What would be the difference in effect of the sewer system? I have a whole house water softener with iron filter. I have always heard to pump about every 3 years. We built our house about 5 years ago and our septic system is based on the number bathrooms (3.5) in the house, & number of people.

 

[AndyM]

If you wait until problems appear on the surface to have it pumped, you are too late. Pumping is a preventative measure, not a repair for a failing system.

Based on the OSU extension office web site, I should have my sysyem pumped every 12.4 years. I have decided that once every four years should be my maximum interval. My system is already iffy, becuase of the water and drainage problems in my front yard, and I don't want to take a risk and wait until it's too late!

 

[Junkman]

Soft water carries the soap residue further because it will mix with the water easier than with hard water. I have learned a lot of this from a friend that is a septic engineer that designs sewage treatment plants all over the country. He started out doing homes, then small communities, and now he does larger projects. One of the problems that I already see within this thread is what I call the "ostrich policy". I haven't had a problem so far, so if I do nothing that is better than doing something, like having the system pumped. You can't hurt your system by having it pumped once a year, you can definitely hurt the system if you don't have it pumped ever. It is like the person that says, why should I drive slower, I haven't gotten caught for speeding in years. The longer you go, the greater the odds of problems. It never ceases to amaze me about how people determine priorities. They will spend $15000 on a tractor and then want to find the cheapest oil or filter for that tractor. There have been times when I will play devils advocate to see who I can draw out of the woods with that type of thinking, but no one ever points out what I have just mentioned. Maintenance doesn't cost, it saves. This principle applies to all aspects of life. If you want to live longer, then take care of your body. If you want the tractor to last, take care of it. Same for the septic system, but unlike the other two examples, the septic system is a "out of sight, out of mind" type of item. If it doesn't stare you in the face every day, you don't think about it.
One final thought, if you have a water softener, then don't put the rinse water into your septic system. I am not certain why, but the local Health District for our area sent out notices a while back indicating that there were a large number of system failures as a result of this practice. They recommended a separate dry well for the water softener discharge water rather than down the septic system drain.

 

[polecat]

Hope this is easier on the eyes junkster!!! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Water softeners generally just use salt...THe biggestproblem a tank will have r jist as junk said... fats,and detergents,..If you can plumb git down in yer crawlspace,cellar and try to figure out if u kin git rid of yer grey water elsewhere...outside of yer house dig a 6' or so deep pit {deppends on yer frost line} and fill it with gravel so that the grey water goes somewhere besides yer tank...When i lived in alabama all the houses in my neighborhood includin my 2 houses [on the same street] were military housing built in the early 50's were having problems because of the clay pipes and their longterm decay...it always depends on yer ph levels...and ground water levels..as far as clay pipe decay goes....
if yer system was built in the past 20 years then because of the newer technologies ie: plastic,and the better design of the field systems.... u stand a much better chance of good drainage...
As i said b4 the biggest problems almost always start with the health of yer tank ...if yer usin Cheer ...STOP.....dig up yer access door and jist look at the floating 2 to 3 inches of undisslolved powder...almost all soaps use a fat base!!! we make our own out of beef lard and the natural fats break down much easier than the synthetic fats used today in most non biodegradable soaps ...even so my grey water runs into a pit that drains into our secondary pond...MIND U ONE THING!!!..the good ol epa frowns on this immensely...
ALL THE LAWS AIMED AT HOUSEHOLD LIQUID WASTE r aimed at housing in lots of larger population bases and homes near bodies of water ..if i lived neear a lake , water reservoir,i wouldnt do this,...but on the otherhand there is a growing number of towns all across the U.S. R TRYING TO MOVE TO MORE[ sorry gin junkster /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif] natural means of the breakdown of liquid waste produced by smaller towns..using natural fats in yer soaps and the use of special bacteria and plants such as cattails, estuaries can b built that will completely break down everything b4 they reenter nature...I personally love nature and the like but i sure as heck am not wanting big brother 2 take care of it 4 me with their sweepjing laws and final "JUSTICE" and political correctedness...WE ALL have to take care of our own little ecosystems {back yards} and teach and encourage our fellow neighbors to do so /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

p.s. by makin our own soap we spent less than 10 bucks last year and we still have {jist a min lemme check} 15 bars of soap left!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
My better half made that BATCH LAST MAY!!!
gimme a holler if u want her recipe .....its easy as pie...oops i mean soap....

take care
TODD

P.S. HOPE YER EYES R FEELIN BETTA JUNKSTER /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[RonL]

Gary

As RobS said, even in the best systems scum will form and accumulate. I consider it cheap insurance to have the tank pumped every two or three years. If you never have the tank pumped you will not know if there is a problem until you have a failure. Kinda like saying that I have 60,000 miles on my car and I have never changed the oil. It runs , so I'm going to leave well enough alone.

Another thing to consider is putting a filter on your washing machine outlet. Todays clothes are mostly synthetic fiber. The tiny fibers that break off and get washed out to your leach field do not readily break down and will eventually clog your filter bed.

RonL

 

[Egon]

15 bars left? How many did you start with?? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Egon

 

[PBMAX]

I know for a fact my last home hand not been pumed since it was built in 1977 up until I sold in 23yrs later. It originally belonged to my wifes family.
When we sold it, the new owner insisted we have it cleaned. The septic folks told my wife it realy didn't seem to need it based on how every they measure it. told her it seemed to have just the right levels ov sludge in the bottum and such. Said he'd been cleaning them for over 10yrs. So I hope he would know. Said he was glad to have the work but who ever installed it must have been a perfectionest. It did not realy need it. About flipped when she told him it had never been cleaned.

Keep in mind it had a family of 4 to 6 in it for at least 16 of those years....

So I would say the install is more important....
But who knows /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I did mention this the fellow installing the one at my new house. He said it does happen on rare occasion, that one is in just the perfect setup and not abused by chemicals and such. He even told me not to bother the new one unless it started giving trouble.

I guess I'll wait and see. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif or should that be smell /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Junkman]

What goes into the tank is what comes out of the homes occupants. Guess that they were a really clean living family!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif You might say that their ---- was better than anyone elses!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[JimR]

May as well put my experiece in here also. I built my house in 1976. In 1995 we had the tank pumped just for the heck of it. The Honey Wagon driver said and I do mean said "That was a good waste of money. Call me again if it gets like that again" The tank had 1 inch of scum on the top and about the same on the bottom. My kids at that time were 10 and 12 years old. Last year we had a backup and I called the Honey Wagon again. I figured that it couldn't possibly be filled up with crap (pun). It wasn't even as bad as the last time. The problem was my wife and here passion for toilet paper lately. There was a long wad of collected toilet paper from the inside of the tank right up into the pipe blocking it. It was a clump about 16 inches long and 8-10 inches in diameter. It looked more like a missile. I figured since I had the tank open, we may as well pump it out again. The guy just smiled as he took my money. Most system failures are because of the soap you use and pouring bacon fat or any other types of fat down the drain. Always use bio-degrable soaps. One other note of mention is to install a "T" fitting at the exit pipe of your tank with a 12"-16" extension that goes down into the tank. This will keep any solids from leaving the tank unless you get really loaded up in the tank. My Honey Wagon guy told me this. He installs these on any tank that has a crumbling seperator wall inside the tank. I did this to mine also.