Pulling the trigger today!

txhawg · Feb 24, 2005

Ok, after I have spent the last 2 months doing research, reading posts on this board and others I am finally going to purchase a 4310 today!

At this point I still have not decided between an epower reverser and ehydro. I guess I should make up my mib=nd before going to the dealer. There is only a $995 difference, but the hydros on the lot have R4 tires and the PR's on the lot have the R1's, so that may help me decide. I am leaning toward the eHydro, but I am thinking that I will need the traction of the R1's. Guess I'll talk to my dealer to see if he can swap them out. I would really like the wider R1's but the configurator says they are not an option with the Hydro /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Anyhow, wish me luck, and any last pieces of advice?

creeper · Feb 24, 2005

Man I am exicited for you, I can only Imagine how you feel.Those choices are really just personal preference. Don't worry about it too much because one things for sure.... either one is a great machine and you are going to love either of them.I had to settle for the gear jamming 790 and I'm still so glad to have a modern tractor and enjoy every time I get to do work with it. Good Luck and HAVE FUN!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

rockyridgefarm · Feb 24, 2005

Either machine is GREAT!!

If you need the traction, get the R1s, I am sure they'll swap them. I ordered R4s, the tractor came with R1s. He said to try them out, and he'd swap if I wanted to. I kept the R1s YMMV.

When you get it home, clean and wax it real well. It will stay clean afterwards with no effort at all. Keep a close eye on those wheel lugs till they settle in.

Seriously consider the skid plates.

Get some touch up pens.

Sometimes dealers will throw in the supplies for the 50 hr. service. Most won't be used for the TWENTYS, so that is money you could have saved with one of them, he might be happy to throw it in.

But most of all, make sure you can look your dealer in the eye and know you are in a win/win situation. If he has to go in the hole to make your deal, you won't be a real customer for him...

HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!

Ballast properly.

txhawg · Feb 24, 2005

(

Ballast properly.

)

By this do you mean get the tires loaded?

Bob_Skurka · Feb 24, 2005

(Ballast properly.)

By this do you mean get the tires loaded?


Most instruction manuals for most will tell you to use Wheel Weight and a Ballast Box. Proper balance is probably the more overlooked and ignored safety factor for using a front end loader. Light tractors and heavy tractors both need proper ballast as ballast should really be explained as BALANCE and from what I can see, most tactors with FELs have more weight in front of the loader than behind it, you need to have proper weight behind the balance point to offset the weight in front of the balance point.

rockyridgefarm · Feb 24, 2005

Bob has the right answer.

Each ballast option has advantages and disadvantages

With loader work, rear ballast on the 3 point is usually the best. a ballast box is very handy. Deeres is under $200 and can be used with iMatch (you add weight, like sackcrete or whatever...) A heavy box blade also works, but it an also catch things (like houses, shops, wives...)

Ballast in the tires is cheap (or at least, it can be) It gets the weight down low for great overall stability and keeps it off the axles. But it is not easily removed if you are serviceing a tire or concerned about compaction. You can use washer fluid, or water with some alcohol. I got used antifreeze from a car dealer for free. (Bob is writhing because I might kill a dog, but I have seen far more dogs die from lead poisening where I live than anyone would want to know...)

Wheel weight go on and off pretty easily, but cost more and add weight to the bearings (consider EZ Weights, which use weight lifting free weights for the most economical and slick setup...)

I get to use my backhoe as very effective ballast, but sometimes the operator can make strange holes in her husband's shop with the teeth. (I wonder if the shop is still mine?)

One other thing to consider about your new tractor... You can get aftermarket seats that are black. That way, you don't have to sit on a cool cool yellow seat. You can set on a plain hot black one. This might seem crazy at first; but you would make _RaT_ happy. Someone should.

Don't tell him, but he is a great guy, and I for one appreciate his great input in the green zone, even if he is a no good orange lovin - um well, I digress....

KennedyDiesel · Feb 24, 2005

I plan to use the Rim Saver fluid in mine. Supposed to be non toxic/biodegradeable. While it is true that the weight cannot be removed, having it down low and not having to carry it or "turn" it has nice advantages. Basically, the weight acts on the tread rather than the rim which acts on the sidewall which acts on the tread. Rear hanging weight tends to lever up on the front the front which can be both good or bad. I figure I can add this too if need be. Hopefully any tire injuries I incur will be "pluggable" and the wide R4's combined with lower psi should help the "cut in" factor in soft conditions.

You will also benefit from improved traction from filled tires when pulling rear ground engaging implements. The implement makes nice ballast, but it goes away when the implement hits the ground.

If anyone know of a link to this Rim Saver stuff, please post. I've only heard about it.

dmp437 · Feb 24, 2005

( If anyone know of a link to this Rim Saver stuff, please post. I've only heard about it. )

Check out RimGuard

VTer · Feb 24, 2005

I recently took delivery of a 4310 with eHydro and R4s. I'm new to tractors and had the same question regarding transmission choice. I have found the eHydro very helpful in my application of having to make several back and forth direction changes to make tight turns in the middle of the driveway. My driveway has places where falling of the edge would be disasterous as it rolls off into a swale. I appreciate the ability to finely control motion back and forth with the eHydro...just need to make sure you don't press the wrong pedal! Not to say that this could not be done similarly with the epower reverser...just sharing my experience with eHydro. I also like the load match feature in keeping the engine from bogging down. I have to make the mental shift that pushing the hydro pedal is different than driving a vehicle...it's easy to think that pushing the pedal should make me go faster, which it of course is not necessarily the case as I'm asking to go to a higher gearing rather than giving it more gas.

It would be nice to have a button which changes from R4 to R1. Maybe that is coming after the 20 series! I have found that the R4's can easily slip in the snow while using the FEL to clear out some big snow drifts. However, I have found as I get more practice that I'm getting better at minimizing slippage. Ther greater concern I have is sideways slippage of the front tires as I'm working on the edge of the driveway in snow...I'm still a bit perplexed on what to do with this as JD says no chains on the front tires. Ask me after a summer of rotary cutting, but I think for now, I'm satisfied with R4's.

My intial thought is that the 4310 is more than adequate for power in this frame size. Again, I'll have a better feel for this once I do some rotary cutting...this is really where you need the power.

I think the 10 series looks better than the 20 series too! More like a tractor should look and more manly! I don't find any problem with seeing the FEL with the 4310 hood design.

Good luck.