Pulled an old Ford out of bushes and found out why it was there

[mrkool]

Alright, I appreciate the advice and ideas, so I drained the oil and took the pan off, but did not find any metal, not even a speck,
so I opened up the old filter and no metal specks were found. So that's a good sign.

So I put it back on and filled it with Rotella and a new filter.

I had a diesel mechnic help with replacing the push rods and he checked the rest on a mirror and all were real straight.
Then he proceeded to set the valve lash and made sure it was by the numbers in the manual.

Had a new air filter in it already, so that's good.

So when I installed the new fuel pump. I set it to "0" like the manual said, but did try starting it with it a little before and a little after, but it would not even smoke at all.

Pretty sure the old guy that owned it, said he used most of a can of starting fluid trying to get it started again after it sat all winter, then just gave up on it.

I put a gasoline soaked rag over the intake but it didn't change anything, even tried WD-40, but it still white smoke and allllmost starting up.

So I rechecked and all 3 injectors are spraying good.

So questions are:

Can a fuel injector that's not electric, stick "open" ? and even if it does, can that keep it from starting ?

So if I want to attach an oil pressure gauge, where do I add one on this machine ?

What shoud the compression PSI be?

Also, any idea what year this tractor is?

 

[topbuilder]

Did you time the new pump? Injectors Are designed to "break", or spray at a specified pressure.

 

[mrkool]

Well, I checked my Ford IT tractor manual and it said to line up the marks on the pump with "O",
and I've tried starting it with it a notch above and below and it won't even try to start.
I didn't move the motor between removing the old pump and installing the new one.

Is there another way of setting the timing ?

I took the injectors out and re-connected them to the fuel line and turned the key, 2 of them sprayed, puffing out a 2 mists, but one didn't,
so me and a buddy took it apart and cleaned it out and re-connected it and it now sprays 2 mists, I'm just wondering if one is leaking causing
the knocking noise I hear.

They mention in diesel truck forums that a leaking injector causes the engine to knock, so that's what got me to think of that, but I don't know how to check it.

Going to check the compression tomorrow if I can find or build a pressure guage to fit the injector hole.

Question: If I pour say mystery oil in the injector hole, will it stay on top or slowly seep around the piston and get to the oil pan ?

 

[topbuilder]

There is a specific procedure for removing/installing the injection pump. It's timed with the cam and crank. I think you are going to need help on this.
Do not pour oil on top of the piston. It will not drain past the rings.

 

[topbuilder]

Careful test the compression. The gage needs to bolt down. Your pressure will be over 300 psi. What you are also looking for is the difference between each of them. 10% differential max? Not sure. I'm more of a parts changer than a mechanic. Speaking of parts, that pump had to be a pretty penny.

 

[KYErik]

In your video, it sounds like it cranks really slowly. The faster it cranks the easier it will start. Try using a better battery or heavier cables. You might want to take the starter off and peek inside to be sure the armature isn't rubbing (bad bearing- easily replaceable) and check the brushes (another easy fix).

 

[mrkool]

When we removed the old fuel pump, the drive hub has a notch that fits in a slot in the timing gear, so it'll only install one way.

I took the old pump to a diesel repair shop and they found a bad hydraulic head and wanted $1200 to repair it,
found a guy on ebay up in east tenn had a brand new pump for $515, so I saved a few dollars there.

The starter is brand new, so maybe my video on photobucket is not up to speed,
the old starter worked great until we fried it trying to get it started and the generator shop wanted $200 to rebuild it,
so I checked and found a brand new starter on ebay for $98.00 with free shipping.

Now I'm debating on getting the shop manual on ebay for about $300

 

[Midniteoyl]

Now I'm debating on getting the shop manual on ebay for about $300

You mean $30..? Ford New Holland 2810 2910 3910 Tractor Shop Service Repair Manual Book I T FO43 | eBay

 

[CCWKen]

You mean $30..? Ford New Holland 2810 2910 3910 Tractor Shop Service Repair Manual Book I T FO43 | eBay

I have the I&T FO-43 manual and can say without reservation that it's no "shop manual". It's only about 80 pages. Save your money for the real shop manual reprint.

 

[sd455dan]

My:2cents: as others have said,- Do the compression test,
until you are (sure) there is sufficient compression- no point in cranking and cranking.

Also when the oil pan was off, hopefully someone grabbed each of the connecting rods to check for
excessive bearing clearance.
If it is a loose connecting rod bearing and it is loose enough to knock ( piston contacting head) you will be able to feel it as excessive play. If it is bad- then a tear down will be necessary along with a minimum of re- grinding the crankshaft and new matching bearing inserts.

Hopefully the knocking was caused by a bad injector...

Good Luck the Old Fords are great tractors and think you scored a good model to have:thumbsup: