pulled a stupid one

[robert421960]

please be nice to me here
i have done so much better on maintenance on mt farmpro 2425 in the last yr
well it has never used any oil or leaked any either.
i have always had trouble with my gauges not working at times
the other day i started my tractor and it showed no oil pressure and like an idiot i didnt stop and check it.i ran it for a bit and it started rattleing so i shut it off and found it dry of oil.i have since found a oil leak somewhere on the front of the oil pan. but the bad thing is i have a steady knock now and it wont go away.
any idea how i can find out what exactly it is?

 

[Bob Rooks]

Well since you ran it without any oil in the engine, I'll bet it is exactly a rod bearing. But it could also be a bad injector, doubt it though. With the engine idling, crack open the injector lines one at a time and see if the knock goes away.

 

[robert421960]

Well since you ran it without any oil in the engine, I'll bet it is exactly a rod bearing. But it could also be a bad injector, doubt it though. With the engine idling, crack open the injector lines one at a time and see if the knock goes away.

it smokes really bad when i first start it and sputters some so i had that idea too.ill try that tomm and hope ill get lucky.if its a rod bering its prob ruined the crank too?

 

[Bob Rooks]

if its a rod bering its prob ruined the crank too?

Not necessarily, but it definitely should be checked.

 

[robert421960]

i cannot get a wrench on the center on so i guess ill have to wait till tomm.can i crack them at the motor or just at the injector pump?

 

[greg_g]

Either. But it's most commonly done at the top, where the hex collar tightens the hardline to the injector. Won't take long to check, but it would be mighty coincidental to develop a bad injector right after running out of engine oil. They're not related.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

Dam!
Well no oil pressure probably means main and rod bearings are wiped out. Low oil level means no splash lube so the liners pobably ran dry so the ring-liner surface is now damaged. Low compression would explain the hard starting and rough idle. You can play with the injectors, but I don't think that will lead anywhere. A rod knock with adequate oil pressure means the rod bearing clearance is too worn to build an oil film and is hammering on the crank. The more you run it without pulling the pan to examine the bearings, the greater the potential damage to the crank...

Good luck...

 

[robert421960]

i bled the injectors and for a few minutes it quick knocking but was still running a little rough so i cracked them again and it started knocking again.it does seem to me to be related to the injectors but i know nothing about them.also the screen filter thing i guess is for blow by is puffing some smoke too

 

[retiredmgn]

i bled the injectors and for a few minutes it quick knocking but was still running a little rough so i cracked them again and it started knocking again.it does seem to me to be related to the injectors but i know nothing about them.also the screen filter thing i guess is for blow by is puffing some smoke too

Like the previous poster said, fuel injection and engine oil are not related.
My guess is rod bearings and/or rings are cooked. The varying results you are getting from adjusting the injectors is masking the real problem by changing the air fuel mixture in the cylinders.
I see a professional shop in your future.
Sorry

 

[rasimmo]

If the "screen filter thing" you are talking about is the crankcase vent than refer back to the post by RonMar above. The blowby is from the liners being damaged. You should really drop the pan and check things out. If you keep running it you probably won't have much choice.
Don't worry too much though, it will probably shut itself down whenever parts start coming through the side of the block.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Okay, I have to clarify a couple of things.

1) Cracking a fuel line takes the firing load off of a particular piston/rod/journal and will tell: a) which rod is knocking, and b) if the injector is dribbling and causing fuel to enter the combustion chamber prior to set timing (not unlike pre-ignition in a gasoline engine).

2) There is no "splash lubrication" on these engines. The cylinders are lubricated through rifle-drilled passages in the connecting rods via the crankshaft, to the gudgeon (wrist) pins, and through passages in the pistons to the walls. The oil control rings wipe the excess oil back through different passages in the pistons where it returns to the sump.

Actually, I would start by pulling the head, since it will have to come off anyway. And it's easier than the sump, and you can inspect the liner walls.

 

[RonMar]

Okay, I have to clarify a couple of things.
2) There is no "splash lubrication" on these engines. The cylinders are lubricated through rifle-drilled passages in the connecting rods via the crankshaft, to the gudgeon (wrist) pins, and through passages in the pistons to the walls. The oil control rings wipe the excess oil back through different passages in the pistons where it returns to the sump.

Splash lubed or spray/slung lube notwithstanding, if the oil was low enough to starve the pump, the crank/conrod's were starved for oil and so were the pistons and liners Smoke out the crankcase breather is a symptom of this...

If the OP knows he ran it low on oil, playing with injectors is just delaying the inevitable... and further running in this state may push a still useable crankshaft into the beyond repair/trash bin catagory IMHO...

 

[robert421960]

i guess i will call the dealer guy i bought it from and have it fixed if i can afford it.how much might it cost me?

 

[Bob Rooks]

If the OP knows he ran it low on oil, playing with injectors is just delaying the inevitable... and further running in this state may push a still useable crankshaft into the beyond repair/trash bin catagory IMHO...

Agreed. I was just clarifying. Splash lubed machinery (not restricted to engines) will usually have a scoop or similar device attached to a rod bearing cap.