When I hooked up rotary cutter last week for the first time, the PTO shaft did not easily slip onto tractor shaft despite proper alignment. I probably should have greased up the shaft first. It may slide right off, but I'm expecting that it will come off as "easily" as it went on. Any tricks for separating them??
PTO SHAFT TIGHT
- Thread starter flINTLOCK
- Start date
- Views: 7859
RoyJackson
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2001
- Messages
- 23,144
- Location
- Bethel, Vermont
- Tractor
- John Deere 4052R Cab,, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements
flINTLOCK said:
I just lube the tractor PTO shaft...haven't had one "freeze" yet...
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Ditto waht row said.. i lube the pto spline. After i remove the unit I put my pto cap on to keep it all clean. Also.. If i can i put a plastic bag over the end of my implement pto shaft and rubber band it on to keep it clean.
Perhaps you had a bur on the ID splines on the implement..
Soundguy
Perhaps you had a bur on the ID splines on the implement..
Soundguy
Nightrain1
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2005
- Messages
- 172
- Location
- Southern Illinois
- Tractor
- Mahindra 3510 / Bad Boy 28hp cat diesel
I took a little steel wool after mine and rubbed some grease on it afterwards. I could come up with a X rated comment on how well it appeared to work, but we will just leave it at, it worked better then the day I brought it home new.
texasjohn
Super Member
I had a situation where several of my shafted implements worked OK.. but the post hole digger didn't... so, I took a file to the inside of the post hole splined shaft and made sure that it was as rust free and dirt free as possible. Unlike others, I hadn't taken the step of greasing/bagging the shaft end and it was kinda gunked up. Kinda would slide on, but not really... so I took some emery cloth... dunno exct grit.... 220 or finer.... to the PTO shaft splines themselves... got them bright... then it all slipped together with WD40 just fine. Still does. Seems it was a 1 time fix.
Now that the shaft is on and none of the recommended precautions taken, any suggestions on removing the shaft if it's as difficult as I expect this one to be. I was thinking I could chain wrap it to a tree to pull it off, so long as the pull is straight line. Otherwise, if pulled at an angle, I guess you could bend/break something. Is heating the shaft likely to be of help??
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I'm sure that would work.. but might 'gut' your tractor to the tune of a few thousand dollars if it ripped the pto section out... I've had to rebuild a JD pto section 2x after employees pushed the shaft back into the tractor.. wasn't a fun split, and the parts alone ran nearly a thousand a pop..
If it were me.. I'd get a can of pb oil with a long red flexible tube nozzle, and spray from the back of the yoke if possible. And from the front.
Worst case scenerio I'd cut the coupler off with a 4" grinder wheel and then split it without harming the pto stub on the tractor.. then get a new yoke end for the pto shaft and get it attached and THEN GREASE IT..
Soundguy
If it were me.. I'd get a can of pb oil with a long red flexible tube nozzle, and spray from the back of the yoke if possible. And from the front.
Worst case scenerio I'd cut the coupler off with a 4" grinder wheel and then split it without harming the pto stub on the tractor.. then get a new yoke end for the pto shaft and get it attached and THEN GREASE IT..
Soundguy
flINTLOCK said:
texasjohn
Super Member
I've found that along with all the other oiling suggestions that it works best if you and a buddy can work on this together. One can hold the collar positioned properly with locking mechanism released, ready to slide back. The other can find long handle pry bar of some sort, an appropriate fulcrum and apply taps/pressure with a hammer to "help" to separate the two parts. Generally the impulse blows will give results where I couldn't get it to budge just with human muscle.
I agree... don't tie it to something and drive away with tractor... the wrong thing might give!
I agree... don't tie it to something and drive away with tractor... the wrong thing might give!
LoneCowboy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2006
- Messages
- 1,212
It will come off, they always do
if it's being a pain, just pull forward and let the shaft split, then everything will be out of the way and it will be a lot easier to get access to everything.
DAMHIK
if it's being a pain, just pull forward and let the shaft split, then everything will be out of the way and it will be a lot easier to get access to everything.
DAMHIK