PTO shaft T4-1130?

[DieselBound]

Bought a Bush Hog 286 (6' rotary mower) a while back and am looking to hook it up to my Kioti. Problem is is that the PTO's yoke is 1 1/8". Previous owner (running it off of a new-ish John Deere which I'm guessing was in the 40hp range) said he had to buy a new PTO shaft because he couldn't get U-joints. Stamped on the shield is "T4-1130 201412." I suspect the "201412" is the manufacturing date. It's got a slip clutch. I cannot find any info on "T4-1130" as pertains to PTO shafts.

Trying to decide whether to change the yoke or just go with an adapter. Not sure how robust running an adapter would be. I have yet to hook up the shaft to check length, so perhaps I may need the extension that the adapter would provide. I'd prefer to not have to buy another PTO shaft.

 

[RickB]

It makes no sense to me for either a 286 to have a 1-1/8" -6 spline tractor end yoke or for a "new-ish" tractor, or for a Deere or any other, to require that size. That said, a metric series 4 1-3/8"-6 spline QD tractor end yoke should be readily available at any decently stocked farm equipment dealer or rural farm supply store. A 286 should have a Series 4 shaft.

Universal Joints

 

[DieselBound]

Well, this has thrown me for a loop! :confused2:

I measure the yoke to be 3". Would/should one of these work?

Weasler Quick Disconnect Tractor Yoke, Metric BYPY 2 or W/S 22, 1-3/8 in., 6 Spline - For Life Out Here
Weasler Quick Disconnect Tractor Yoke, Metric BYPY 1, 1-3/8 in., 6 Spline - For Life Out Here

 

[RickB]

Not likely.

Disassemble the yoke from the cross then measure the u-joint cap diameter and distance from cap to cap when the caps are installed on the cross. Use those dimensions to determine what series yoke to find. Measure in MM so you don't have to convert. Use a digital caliper; if you don't have one, buy a cheap one and you will have it.

 

[DieselBound]

Well, I feel pretty stupid!

I popped off the yoke only to find that it DOES fit! So, it really IS 1 3/8". But, the U-joint isn't in all that great of shape (on of the caps has a cracked-off piece; one side is really stiff too) so I suppose that it wasn't a wasted effort. Is there any special requirement on the type of U-joint or can I just match up whatever will fit (run down to NAPA and match against the existing)?

 

[RickB]

Match the two dimensions from my previous post. Cap diameter and width including caps.

 

[DieselBound]

Had NAPA select and install one. $58 and done. But... now I have to pull the tail wheel bracket off and have THAT welded up: it was cracked when I bought it; looking closely it looks to have been cracked a lot more than I'd hoped it was; wondering if someone had tried welding it before. Oh well...