Sprayer PTO roller pump question

[Flyindutchman]

Just joined this forum today and looking forward to interacting with other members and hopefully learning a few things. I recently purchased a new Fimco 60 gal. 3-point sprayer. It was a package deal and came with a Hypro cast iron 6 roller pump. The primary use for this will be spraying 5-6 acres of food plots where we deer hunt. I occasionally will be spraying roundup as well as other herbicides and liquid fertilizers such as plot start & plot boost. I guess I should have done a little more research because I'm finding out that cast iron pumps don't last long when using roundup. Any of you fine folks out there using this setup that can tell me how long can I expect this pump to last. I do plan on cleaning it after every use and then flushing it with vegetable oil. Thanks in advance!

 

[Peter 315]

http://www.hypro-pump.net/Hypro-Roller-Pump-Brochure.pdf

 

[teg]

...I do plan on cleaning it after every use and then flushing it with vegetable oil...

If you take care of it, it will last a long time but cleaning it is a heck of a job - and you've already contributed to TBN... I didn't think about vegetable oil!!!! I just use motor oil... looks bad in the tank afterwards. Welcome to TBN!

 

[mddorange]

:welcome:
To the TBN forum Ducthman. We are glad that you joined.

 

[majorwager]

Agree with longevity w/ maintenance. I use 4 way fitting at pump with upward street elbow and threaded plugs and shut-off valve at supply. Pour half gallon soapy water to flush, I then add clear mineral oil, circulate and done till next application. Add mineral oil w/o disconnecting hoses, remove plug, add mineral oil. Think motor oil would stain tank lining? Could over-kill, add pipe thread to GHT adapter to 4 way, flush w/ pressure, then soapy water, mineral oil. Years later, replacement roller kits are available.

 

[Oldoak]

Agree with longevity w/ maintenance. I use 4 way fitting at pump with upward street elbow and threaded plugs and shut-off valve at supply. Pour half gallon soapy water to flush, I then add clear mineral oil, circulate and done till next application. Add mineral oil w/o disconnecting hoses, remove plug, add mineral oil. Think motor oil would stain tank lining? Could over-kill, add pipe thread to GHT adapter to 4 way, flush w/ pressure, then soapy water, mineral oil. Years later, replacement roller kits are available.

I follow a similar procedure as you. However I use undiluted horticultural/dormant tree spray oil instead of mineral oil.

 

[majorwager]

That certainly trumps the RECONSTITUTED Cod Liver oil which is my back- up choice.

 

[3Ts]

I hadn't thought of using mineral oil so maybe that will make it last longer than mine did. I bought mine to use only with pesticides, I knew about roundup affects. I always flushed my pump well and then the last cycle thru was with biodegradable antifreeze. I went for about 15 years then had to do 8 acres of herbicide (roundup). Made sure I did the usual flush and a second time to be sure I got it clean, but wasn't good enough. Sat for a year or two then got ready to use it again and found it was not operable - meaning, I can not turn the shaft by hand. I also tried a wrench, but that didn't work either. Right now it's just sitting and on my list to disassemble to see if it is repairable. It turned out to be a one use application.

 

[teg]

...I went for about 15 years then had to do 8 acres...

Mine was frozen solid, took it apart so I could clean and oil it... works fine. If you got 15 years out of it, I think you got your money's worth

I would open it up and see how it looks inside... then look for a rebuild kit.

 

[Flyindutchman]

Just figured that something biodegradable would be a better option over motor oil. This is my first sprayer w/roller pump so I'm a rookie!

 

[Flyindutchman]

Thanks a bunch for all the friendly advice. I'll probably just stick with the cast iron pump for now versus spending close to another $300 for roundup approved one.

 

[sandman2234]

I was just wondering (and I know NOTHING about spraying chemicals)...does stainless steel pumps make a difference with these sprayers or do they get eat up just as badly?
David from jax

 

[Oldoak]

The stainless steel pumps definitely make a huge difference. Over the years I have found the weak link on all the roller pumps are the bearing seals. Eventually they will allow spay material to corrode the ball bearings. However, the bearings are replicable and can be purchased as a pump replacement part or at any bearing store or even an auto parts retail store.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Still have the original Hypro pump 10 years later, also have a old used Delevan that I put new rollers in and still works well.

Have camlock fittings on each pump with matching plugs and just fill up with bar oil for storage after rinsing out and have very little rust. Think the corrosion thing is not a real concern for occasional use.

David

 

[teg]

...Think the corrosion thing is not a real concern for occasional use...

It's a concern IF you do not clean it. If you only use a sprayer once and leave Roundup in it, expecting next year for it to work just fine, forget about it.

(I love hearing about all the different oils being used )

 

[Flyindutchman]

Stainless steel pumps are described as "roundup ready" but they are 2-3 times more expensive. Any herbicide that contains glyphosate is corrosive to the cast iron pumps. Cleaning & lubricating after each use is the major factor is the major factor that effects the longevity of any roller pump, especially the cast iron models.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

The flushing with water is a given after each use, I either leave them wet with flushed water or drain and fill with oil, either way no corrosion, it is when you let air in that most of the corrosion occurs.

David